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ryan95i4

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Posts posted by ryan95i4

  1. Was the Senza intake used on both pulls?  Just wanted to clarify that the only difference was the rebuilt w/ .040 over.  It sounded like you went back to webbed EGR intake, but you stated the fresh bottom end was the only difference -- just making sure I read that correctly.

  2. Pallnet -- I got one of your fuel rails years ago and I still probably get more questions about that than anything else, lol. Not the haltech or the LS coils, everyone asks about the fuel rail first.

    Great product, great service  
     

    20160419_115621.jpg

  3. Hey Mohammad,

     

    Sorry, I didn't realize Haltech released new software for the Elite series.  Im looking at the trigger pattern options on the new software now and you may need to check with Haltech directly on the correct way to set it up with the Z31 wheel.

  4. Hello

     

    I am install the new haltech 2500 on my 280zx

     

    I am used 280zx turbo distributor with z31 trigger wheel and ls2 turck coil

     

    The car not run the Rbm is ready About 130-180 when i cranking but the car not run

    I check all wire and the battery is 12V

     

    So any help why the car not run !?

     

    What the correct trigger angle !?

     

    Thank you

     

    I received your PM, but in that you said you were using a Z31 wheel.  I copied it here in case anyone else had the same issue. We have a similar setup.

     

    First, make sure ignition settings are correct.

     

    Spark Mode: Wasted Spark (Or Direct Fire since the 2500 has 8 ignition outputs)

    Spark Edge: Falling

    Dwell Mode: Constant Charge

    Dwell Time: I think Haltech recommends 4.5 ms for LS coils, tho mine is currently at 4.0

     

    Then check trigger settings

     

    Trigger Type: Nissan Optical

    Trigger Edge: Falling
    Home Edge: Falling
    Trigger Sensor Type: Hall Effect
    Home Sensor Type: Hall Effect
    Trigger Pull Up: Enabled
    Home Pull Up: Enabled
    Home WIndow: 8
    Trigger Filter: None

    Home Filter: None

     
     
    Im assuming you are in fact using the Z31 wheel like you said in your PM.  The DIY wheel might need different settings.
     
     
    For trigger angle and tooth offset, this will vary car to car.
     
    In the ignition menu, find ignition lock - enable the lock at some mild advance, i think i used 20*.
     
    Use a timing light to check how much advance the motor is actually seeing.  Start with the tooth offset at 0 and trigger angle at 70*. Increase the tooth offset by 10 until the actual advance confirmed by your timing light matches what you locked the haltech timing at. When you start getting close, you can decrease the increments you're using. Then use trigger angle to fine tune.  I ended up at tooth offset of 15 and trigger angle of 56 but every car will be different.  Think of tooth offset as a coarse adjustment and trigger angle as a fine adjustment. Once you have it matched, you can uncheck the ignition lock and now your regular timing tables will be used.
     
     
     
    Also make sure your basic settings are correct, like engine capacity, firing order (1,5,3,6,2,4), max cranking rpm, etc.  Also make sure your injectors are firing -- the fuel setup has a check box for "Enable Injectors" to make it easy to turn injectors off or on for other reasons, but could be easy to leave that box unchecked and not get any fuel ;)
     
    Good luck!
  5. Hello there

     

    Thank you for all great information

     

    I like to run haltech in my L28

    I will used Ls2 coil and Denso 720cc fuel injection

     

    Any good map to run my car with ?

     

    Thank you

     

     

    I tried finding maps, but with every car being so different, you probably wont have luck finding a match. You really are better off building your own.  Follow Haltech's advise -- start with very conservative timing and get your base fuel map squared away first.

     

    Since the MS forum is much more active, I actually looked at some of the maps those guys were using when looking for a starting point.

  6. Thanks for the feedback, your update is encouraging. I know there is plenty of untapped power in my set-up and I want to do this stand alone upgrade once, get a decent Dyno tune and walk away. Just need to decide on whether or not to spend the extra $700 or so on the 1000.

     

    You can do idle and boost control with open-loop with the 500, but closed loop idle and boost control would be nice. The built in turbo-timer function on the 1000 is nice as well.  The 1000 and 2000 offer a lot of other options that I possibly would or would not take advantage of if I had them, but its up to you if thats worth almost doubling the cost. 

     

    Can't go wrong with any of the Haltech options though.

  7. How about an update Ryan? Looking to go the same route.

     

     

    No news is good news :)

     

    Car runs great, switching to Haltech was the best thing I've done with the car.  Havent had the car on a dyno to tune, but had a decent street tune in.  Cold starts are dead on - just made a post the other day on IG where I started the car for the first time in ~6 weeks, and it turned over first crank, no throttle input needed. Since this post I added idle control and electronic boost control with the PS500 as well (500 limited to open loop idle and boost control, but works great nonetheless). I also have fans controlled through the EMS and I setup the 2-step rev limiter.

     

    My goal was to have a system I didnt have to fuss with beyond initial tuning. I haven't had a laptop in the car in probably 8-9 months and I would drive the car anywhere.

     

    I would still like to get the car on a dyno and fine tune, but the car drives better than it ever has before as it sits. Haltech is about to release the new elite series of ECUs, which look amazing, but 500 is still the ultimate bang-for-the-buck IMO.

  8. My dad sold a car that went to Germany. It was a 59 corvette. It was trucked to Florida then shipped to Germany. The guy met it at the port in Germany. It had gotten a busted windshield and gained 100 miles on the odometer between here and there when it probably should have only gotten about 2.

     

    no bueno

     

    But at that point, the buyer has to make a claim with the shipper, no?

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