ryan95i4

Thanks for the updates! Even if they are just teasers ha. Good luck with the rest of prep!

Was the Senza intake used on both pulls? Just wanted to clarify that the only difference was the rebuilt w/ .040 over. It sounded like you went back to webbed EGR intake, but you stated the fresh bottom end was the only difference -- just making sure I read that correctly.

Wow, can't wait to see the end product!

I had a couple offers from the middle east through IG. Wonder how many of those cars started state side.

Qty: 1 (short sleeve tshirt) Size: L Color: Heather Grey Zip: 32605

The speedhut gauges look really good. I have autometer pro comp gauges in mine, the 2 5/8 fit perfect in the dash pods

Just read up on these after seeing this thread, very cool to see the missing car found again!

Just read this whole thread, very cool story -- even cooler if the recent CL ad is legit!

Pallnet -- I got one of your fuel rails years ago and I still probably get more questions about that than anything else, lol. Not the haltech or the LS coils, everyone asks about the fuel rail first. Great product, great service

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/ghtp-1303-camaro-zl1-rx-performance-super-chiller-ac-assisted-intercooler-install/ Someone beat you to it

Can you just use one of the original default base maps to get started? http://www.haltech.com/downloads-2/base-maps/ Theres a default r32/33 base map in there. I know yours isnt even close to stock, but worse case it will give a you a starting point to restart your tune :/

ouch -- this is why I got an agreed value policy and an appraisal. Good luck with insurance, glad you're alright.

Glad you got it sorted! Good luck with the tune

PM Sent, more pics in the IG link in my sig.

'grats on the write-up! Just added you on IG, same name as here.

All your settings in Main Setup correct, especially trigger and ignition settings?

Hey Mohammad, Sorry, I didn't realize Haltech released new software for the Elite series. Im looking at the trigger pattern options on the new software now and you may need to check with Haltech directly on the correct way to set it up with the Z31 wheel.

I received your PM, but in that you said you were using a Z31 wheel. I copied it here in case anyone else had the same issue. We have a similar setup. First, make sure ignition settings are correct. Spark Mode: Wasted Spark (Or Direct Fire since the 2500 has 8 ignition outputs) Spark Edge: Falling Dwell Mode: Constant Charge Dwell Time: I think Haltech recommends 4.5 ms for LS coils, tho mine is currently at 4.0 Then check trigger settings Trigger Type: Nissan Optical Trigger Edge: FallingHome Edge: Falling Trigger Sensor Type: Hall Effect Home Sensor Type: Hall Effect Trigger Pull Up: EnabledHome Pull Up: EnabledHome WIndow: 8Trigger Filter: None Home Filter: None Im assuming you are in fact using the Z31 wheel like you said in your PM. The DIY wheel might need different settings. For trigger angle and tooth offset, this will vary car to car. In the ignition menu, find ignition lock - enable the lock at some mild advance, i think i used 20*. Use a timing light to check how much advance the motor is actually seeing. Start with the tooth offset at 0 and trigger angle at 70*. Increase the tooth offset by 10 until the actual advance confirmed by your timing light matches what you locked the haltech timing at. When you start getting close, you can decrease the increments you're using. Then use trigger angle to fine tune. I ended up at tooth offset of 15 and trigger angle of 56 but every car will be different. Think of tooth offset as a coarse adjustment and trigger angle as a fine adjustment. Once you have it matched, you can uncheck the ignition lock and now your regular timing tables will be used. Also make sure your basic settings are correct, like engine capacity, firing order (1,5,3,6,2,4), max cranking rpm, etc. Also make sure your injectors are firing -- the fuel setup has a check box for "Enable Injectors" to make it easy to turn injectors off or on for other reasons, but could be easy to leave that box unchecked and not get any fuel Good luck!

16"x8.25", 0 offset, 205/50 tires under eibach springs and stock fenders here. You should be fine depending on how much rubber you put on the wheels.

Found a couple thanks to google and http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/raleigh-nc-1977-datsun-280z-l28et-swap-coilovers-track-ready-227515.html?s=13b8078ab0c1a47f08d7115ff89c05dd&p=4910828

Dat lip doe! Will look good on a S30 for sure

I tried finding maps, but with every car being so different, you probably wont have luck finding a match. You really are better off building your own. Follow Haltech's advise -- start with very conservative timing and get your base fuel map squared away first. Since the MS forum is much more active, I actually looked at some of the maps those guys were using when looking for a starting point.

You can do idle and boost control with open-loop with the 500, but closed loop idle and boost control would be nice. The built in turbo-timer function on the 1000 is nice as well. The 1000 and 2000 offer a lot of other options that I possibly would or would not take advantage of if I had them, but its up to you if thats worth almost doubling the cost. Can't go wrong with any of the Haltech options though.

No news is good news Car runs great, switching to Haltech was the best thing I've done with the car. Havent had the car on a dyno to tune, but had a decent street tune in. Cold starts are dead on - just made a post the other day on IG where I started the car for the first time in ~6 weeks, and it turned over first crank, no throttle input needed. Since this post I added idle control and electronic boost control with the PS500 as well (500 limited to open loop idle and boost control, but works great nonetheless). I also have fans controlled through the EMS and I setup the 2-step rev limiter. My goal was to have a system I didnt have to fuss with beyond initial tuning. I haven't had a laptop in the car in probably 8-9 months and I would drive the car anywhere. I would still like to get the car on a dyno and fine tune, but the car drives better than it ever has before as it sits. Haltech is about to release the new elite series of ECUs, which look amazing, but 500 is still the ultimate bang-for-the-buck IMO.

no bueno But at that point, the buyer has to make a claim with the shipper, no?