graphicjunkie

great info..thanks all. I've never had to deal with this stuff before, so I don't honestly know. I know that the engine hasn't been bored before, and it runs sweet...so HOPEFULLY I don't have to go more than 20 over. But truth be told, I was told to expect to pay at least 150 for the crank it's self. So getting the crank and balancer, and flywheel is still ok if I have to end up investing in new pistons to match the bore. one piece / two piece seal block? I have NO idea what this means other than I'm guessing you are talking about the front and rear mains? Maybe one piece press in or two piece? Why won't the 400 work on a one piece? I don't understand, could you explain? Is there a way to tell? would all data tell? My buddy helping me through all this works for a dealership and could pull it up that way if so. But I need to get this figured out sooner than later so if it won't work I can tell the guy, as he had a secondary possible buyer. great info...thanks again!!

Well, the crank is the only thing I'm not certain about. I'm looking to hit 4-500HP down the road...here is what I just got. ad: =========== I have a used standard GM 400 crank w/ clean journals. I also have a NEW externally balanced flywheel and a used GM 400 externally balanced harmonic balancer. I also have a NEW set of Speed Pro 383 Chevy flat top pistons, part # H860CP, and they're .020 over. If your thinking of building that ground thumping small block this summer, here are the major components you'll need. I'm asking $200 or I may consider $100 and a set of heads, depending on condition. =========== so tell me if I'm barking up the wrong tree or not.

I had to share with those that can appreciate! I just picked up a 383 stroker kit for $200. He might want my stock heads off my 5.7, which will drop the price to $100!! Which is fine with me as I wanted to can the stock heads anyway!! My 5.7 isn't an LT1...it's the older TBI 5.7 with the cast iron heads...so they are hurting more than helping. He also is asking for my stock exhaust manifolds. Think they are worth another $100 for the pair?

well, I know it was built 12/73. It has a body kit on it that I thought might be a factory option. But under the bumper you can see original blinkers...so someone did a jimmy rig job on it. I will look for that tag tonight. But how/where can I breakdown the VIN?

I've been using the search function, and I've come up with no luck. So I just got my car home from Northern Wyoming to Colorado. It was a free to tow car, no title, no nothing...get it off my property kind of deal. I took the VIN, and tried to pull it up on line, and it's says it's not a valid VIN. From a thread on VIN's I found in a search, I discovered it's at least a 260Z...as the VIN starts with RLS30. But when I try to pull a vin check it says it needs 17 characters. I would really like to find out all the grit on this car. Can someone tell me where I can find the codes to break down what and where on this car? For purposes of this thread, here's my vin RLS30-014283 Thanks

So basically I should just take it to an upholstery shop and have them redo it. thanks!

I've been searching through the threads, and I'm trying to find a vendor that sells good replacement dash boards for the 240/260zs. Any recommendations? Stay away froms? thanks.

It's hard to say exactly what brand of paint it is. It could be PPG, HOK, Dupont, ALSA...the possibilities are endless. Could be a couple different things though. Could be something like a metallic silver base with a kandy apple red overlay. Or could be a simple as a pearl paint job. Without having a really close shot it makes it hard to tell. If you want to simulate that look, I would definately recommend going with a (and I prefer HOK myself) metallic base coat, then the kandy apple red overlay. If you want it to really have some kick in the light, but with out being too glittery from a lot of flake, then get some pearl white and "dust" the silver before you apply the red. That will keep it "clean" looking, but when the light hits it just right will give your Z some Zing. Anther option would be to lay down a pearl base and come back with the red. Keep in mind that a true kandy paint will get darker and darker with each applied coat. Where as a pearl paint will achieve coverage and maintain the same color. You could go with my suggestion above, and if it is still too red, then you could hit it with kandy brandywhine which is more of a burgandy, and add layer after layer until it took the tone you were looking for.

Hey folks, Just signed on, and I'm really excited. While up in Wyoming visiting the inlaws, I ran across a Z car with a "free to tow" window sticker. I believe it's a 1973 260, but I'm honestly not sure. The guy was really old, and his son owned it and had died. He new next to nothing about it other than he wanted it off his property. Sold. The car is in pretty good shape. Two of the panels had some cancer. The old man tells me that there is some odds and ends around the back of the garage...they had to go as part of the deal. Sure. .........Sweet! Replacement panels for the bad ones!! The kid must have been in the process of restoring it. The transmission was in the hatch, and the engine was being suspended/supported by a 4X4 across the engine compartment. So then I go on craigslist and find a 1992 Buick Road master for sale with 120K miles on it. Perfect running condition...5.7L LT1. (Not the "baby" LT1!! ) $950! I call the guy, and he's so desparate for cash, that after only a few minutes of conversation about the car, he tells me he'll do for $700. Went and looked at the car, and after about a half hour of inspection, drove it home. Next is to pull the engine, rip it apart, inspect everything, get it honed out, balanced, and put new LOW compression pistons in it. STS turbo time.... When all is said and done, I should be easily looking at 500Whp. The irony is that all the investigating I've done, tells me that the engine is rated at 25mpg in that big ol' boat car. So I figure weighing a coupe thousand pounds less, that after the mods, I should be getting about the same. LOL! Sad thing was that I had to leave the Z car up in Wyoming (I'm in Colorado), as I didn't have the means to drag it home. So Memorial weekend we're going BACK to visit WITH the flatbed, and bring home the car. This is a great site! I've only been on here for a short time and I've already found a link to motor mounts, seats, and lighting! I can't wait to get the body work and paint done, and get this thing on the ground rollin! I just have to figure out how I want to paint it. I just knocked out this mustang for a friend.... Pictures don't do it any justice, it turned out SIIIICK!