graphicjunkie

Hmm...That's sad. For the same reason that I've never finished my car, I've not had the opportunity to contribute as much as I'd like within the forums. Although I visit all the time and lurk. I didn't realize my location wasn't filled out, but that's ok. I fixed that. But to charge people $20 to list an add? Craigslist doesn't do that...EBAY doesn't even charge that much to sell a whole car. Thanks to those that have answered my 60 threads worth of questions over the last three years.

Well, I've been trying to pull off this ......... And I JUST can't ...... put a ....... to it. So! I............. space. For what ever reason, I'm not allowed to post anything to to the for sale forum. (admin?) so as to not break the rules ............ would .......... I ...... list.

Merry Christmas to everyone! Hope you all have a great and safe holiday! Cheers!

Great idea, HORRIBLE execution. Not sure if everyone sees it or not, but I see a LOT of crooked lines. Doesn't look as bad right now being primered. but when finish painted....its going to be more visible.

Wow. You are really doing it right. That will pay off in the end. Beautiful job!

I'm planning on going turbo. I think I've got the kit picked out. T3/T4 hybrid set up. Right now it's good for 500hp with it's current config. But I understand that these turbos are good up to 1200. So if I ever decided to go NUTS, I would just have to pretty much upgrade that turbo parts instead of buy a whole new set up. I'm excited to see some progress and get the ball in motion, but I'm sure it will be at least next summer before the car hits the road. Maybe even later. :burnout:

Went back, and the GT45 was by autochrome...a company I've been reading a lot of bad stuff about. So that's a no-go. I'm torn here though. I found a complete set up for a D series honda engine. Don't laugh yet. Hybrid T3/T4 capable up to 1200 HP. Complete with intercooler, BOV, downpipe, exhaust manifold, wastegate...everything. Granted I won't be able to USE some of it, but I could turn around and sell what I don't need and regain some of the money to use towards the proper piping and stuff. $400 for that, or the HX60 by it's self maxing out at 600HP for $500... ??!! Too many choices and decisions...maybe I should have just stuck with the nitrous!! LOL!!

GT45 = $300 shipped, NEW! ??

I found a Holset HX60 and HX82. The 60 is apparently good 320 - 600hp, has no playand the HX82 is good from 500-1200. Thing is massive. But it has some play, and would require a rebuild. I'm thinking that the 60 will suffice, but the 82 is tantalizing.

Man, people on Craigslist just piss me off. I had found a Turbonetics T62-1 good for 600hp. Price was decent, agreed to buy, !#%! stood me up on the exchange and now won't answer calls. The search continues now.

So I have FINALLY been able to alot some time to project 383Z. Last week I was able to get the LT1 all torn down and to the machinist with a whole shopping cart of goodies. I've changed my direction a bit. I'm dumping the nitrous, and going forced induction. So I bought forged dished pistons rated at 9.5:1, in place of the original flat tops . I might get additional head gaskets to still lower that, not sure. Have to figure out what the current final compression ratio will be with all the head work that's been done. We'll see. So today I picked everything back up, and of course, I'm leaving town for a week come this weekend. LOL! But as soon as I get back, I have to decide on my cam shaft, get that purchased, and put the thing together. From there, I'm going to stick it in the corner all covered up nice and neat, and start tearing apart cars (I have two...) so that I can start assimilating them into one. Good times....finally.

Thanks for the information. My budget is quickly dwindling. You know the story...nickel dime time. So I'm shopping for a used turbo...hopefully on the cheaper side. My setup? Well, it's changed a little over time. But here's what I am currently trying to build. 1995 LT1 w/ police package. 30 over forged dish pistons Forged stroker crank hydrolic roller/rocker set up cam model still undecided....was going for a very big cam, but not what you want for a FI set up. Need less overlap. (recommendations are welcome! I am looking for something that still hits hard LATE to allow time to get off the line.) was going 125hp shot nitrous, but have decided to go FI, so selling nitrous set up. still deciding on headers vs rams horn ex. man.... But I am going to be doing this turbo set up as a remote ( rear mount) set up.

I'm shopping turbos, and have read a bunch of the threads on this subforum. I understand all the tech side of it on how to ensure there is enough CFM, choke points, all that jazz...but trying to track down an actual turbo for the application is a different game. Not sure how to search on this one, so if it's been discussed, forgive me. I'm finding a ton of diesel truck turbos. 6.0 to 7.3L's... My question is, would the turbos off the diesel trucks make good ones for our application? Smaller turbos are a dime a dozen. But I don't really want to do a twin turbo set up. I found a turbo for a Mac truck. But I can't find any specs on it, although I'm sure that it puts out plenty...but I'm apprehensive. thanks. OH! And I'm FINALLY getting to start playing with my car! I actually got the engine completely tore down last night to a bare block. So next is off to the machine shop for some R&R. The inside of the engine was soooooo clean!! The cylinders still had cross thatch marks in them! Just makes me feel better knowing that I'm starting with a good foundation.

[url=http://zcarpartsindex.com/index.php?title=Differential_Listing][/url]http://zcarpartsindex.com/index.php?title=Differential_Listing

ok, finished up what I was doing and went back to your link. Your site has a ton of links for the calculators. Awesome, thanks. seriously, every conceivable style/format for calculating it. That's cool as hell. But my question has evolved from my OP... I see the calculators stating that I need more than a 30# injector, but I'm seeing thread after thread where people with modified LT1's are using 30# injectors, running well over the 380hp max that the calculators are showing for 30# use. I don't want to go too big, I read that it can cause cylinder wash, and that's bad. Does elevation have any play here? SAE gets away with more/less because of air density? Just a shot in the dark there.

thanks grumpy. I'll check it out.

ok, now I'm confused though. I went over to LS1tech, per a thread on here. On that website,I found a thread that was discussing mods and performance. MANY of the higher numbered hp numbers I was seeing, people were using ..... 30# injectors! Doesn't make sense to me!!!

wow...should have searched outside the forum....one quick hit on google...found tons. Appears that the 30# injectors won't do the job. Here is a great article I found: You will need access to a dyno to properly do this. Step 1: Determine the horsepower of your engine. To determine the horsepower your engine is producing at the crank, you should have your vehicle dyno tested. Step 2: Determine your approximate BSFC or Brake Specific Fuel Consumption. BSFC is the amount of fuel used per unit of horsepower made by your engine. Again, you can determine this from dyno testing. Step 3: Determine your injector's safe duty cycle. The injector duty cycle is the percentage of time that the fuel injector is open vs. the total time between firing. For most OEM cars it's .8, but if you're on this forum it's safe to assume for this purpose that your SDC is actually .85, as this is pretty standard for most modified and racing cars. If you're upgrading your injectors to a higher flow rate, then it's safe to assume that .85 is your number!!!!! SDC=.85 Step 4: Calculating the injector size. Okay, so now you have the numbers you need. You've done the dyno time, and you have your crank-hp, your aprox. BSFC, and your injector SDC. What now? Now you can use this information to calculate the correct size by using this formula: injector size in lbs./hr.=(max. hp X BSFC) divided by (number of injectors X SDC) So, if you have a modified Sentra, putting out 150 hp, then the equation might look like this: (150 X .45) divided by ( 4 X .8 ) = 21.1 lb./hr. So, what the hell do you do with lbs./hr.??? I mean, everyone else in the world has the sense to use the metric system... but your Nascar fan parts guy at the local Napa doesn't understand the simplicity of the universal metric system... so he only knows lbs./hr.... well, that's easy. Use this formula to calculate: To convert pounds per hour to cc's per minute (like normal people would): cc/min = (lbs./hr. X 60) divided by 6.177 so, using the example above, that would be: (21.1 lbs./hr. X 60) divided by 6.177 = 204.9 cc/min. Fuel injector duty cycle is the percentage of time each fuel injector is commanded to be open. This time period is known as the Injector Pulse Width, or IPW. If you know the engine speed (RPM) and the (IPW), then it is easy to calculate the duty cycle. During normal engine operation, each fuel injector fires once per each four stroke cycle of the engine. These four cycles have a duration of two complete revolutions of the engine. For example, at 3,000 RPM it takes 40 milliseconds (ms.) for an engine to complete two revolutions (3,000 RPM / 60 = 50 revolutions per second, and the inverse of 50 is .02 second, or 20 milliseconds). At 6,000 RPM it takes 20 milliseconds for two revolutions. If a fuel injector is activated for 15 ms. at 3,000 RPM the duty cycle is 37.5% (15 ms. / 40 ms.). If an injector is powered for 15 ms. at 6000 RPM, then the duty cycle is 75% (15 ms/20 ms). One way to simplify this process is to multiply IPW by 5.33, then divide RPM by that number. So in this example, 15 x 5.33 = 80, and 6000 / 80 = 75%. Notice that as engine speed rises, duty cycle also rises. So if we use the 75% duty cycle at 6,000 RPM from above (which is perfectly safe), and rev that same engine to 7,000 RPM instead, we get a duty cycle of 88%. Many manufacturers recommend that fuel injector duty cycle be kept below 85 to 90% for extended periods. Some injectors may actually flow less above 95% duty cycle than below that value. Of course, if the listed duty cycle is greater than 100%, the fuel injector is inadequate for the application. And here is a good interactive version: http://www.injector.com/injectorselection.php

Is there any kind of calculation to help determine how large of injectors you need for a specific horse power application? I've got a lead on some FORD SVO 30# injectors. Guy I know bought them, and decided that he needed more. Selling them for dirt cheap. But I want to make sure I don't waste my money either. I'm SHOOTING for about 500hp. thanks. I've been searching with no results.

K...don't be so ...grumpy... on those of us that are still learning. C'mon. :burnout:Gotta learn somehow, somewhere. I'm ASKING if it's something I really need at this point. I thought it was, so I was going that direction. But if it's not, that's something I am all ears about. I'm planning on going with a big cam. But what I have to do first is find out the deck clearance on my heads with pistons and all...which I also haven't figured out what I want to do. I currently have some 11:1 compression pistons @ 20 over that I have been planning on using, but I'm not sure now. I would prefer a larger cam that has a higher RPM/later response. Less power off the line to help with launch (less being a play on words with that much power in a light car...) I might go with 30 over, and lower compression. Either way, I am waiting to get my heads back so I have those numbers and can calculate compression. As far as exhaust goes, I plan doing side pipes, and am still trying to figure out if headers or the ramshorn w/ the larger pipes would be better. So stock cam and exhaust are definitely out for me. And on a side note, thank you for the input/education.

Well, I was told I had to get the 58mm, because a have a heavily ported/matched set of heads and intake manifold that require it. I'm still trying to figure out what cam I want to get. I have a set of roller lifters as well. Gotta match all that up. But you're saying that it will support over 550?! I guess I need to know what will happen if I throw fire to this thing and I'm not getting enough air? IE, if I don't get the 58mm can it cause harm? I don't believe so, if anything, it would make it run rich? I don't know. This stuff is all kind of new to me. I plan on getting the air foil for the TB too....or is that a waste of money as well? THANKS!!

I recently purchased the JTR kit to include the radiator kit, as well as the swap book and the LT1 book...cost was about $600. Parts are of excellent quality, and if you consider that along side the removal of trial and error doing it yourself, it makes it really cheap in my mind.

I'm looking to purchase my needed 58mm throttle body for my LT1 engine. Not having ever dealt with this before, I'm a little confused. I see prices anywhere from $250 to well over $500 depending on brand. Now if this was a carb, I could see where there could be differences in models. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the throttle bodies only deliver air. No mixing, no nothing...just a flippin 'door' to regulate how much air is delivered. So my question for you guys with throttle body knowledge is this: Is there any advantage to buying the $500 unit over the $250? I'm simply looking at the models that Summit is offering. Or maybe there is a model most recommended. This is for my 1995 LT1 if it matters. Thanks.

That's a hot car! GREAT BUILD!!! What is your cardomain id? I'd love to check it out.

Looks great so far. Do you have any shots of the fab of the rear hatch conversion? I originally was going to do this as well, then chickened out since I had such a crap welder. But I just scored a really nice Lincoln welder so now that's back on the table!! Did you reinforce the undercarriage since you took away the cabin?