therustedgauge

Someone jacked my radio, and since i've been having problems intalling a new one. The fuse block blew a series of fuses at one point and i had to take the radio fuse and bypass the block and install an in-line fuse. on schematics, the BROWN & RED wire leads directly to the battery lead in the accessory portion of the ignition switch, and still i've got no juice. No multimeter/volmeter/amp-meter to test the power lines. Is there something that i might be missing? can anyone fill in some gaps here that doesn't involve expensive tools.

solved the buzzing, radio still not working, le-sigh. ;/

Everything on the left part of the circuit on *IGN* and *ACC* circuits, that is connected on the left row (not counting the headlights and such) are all shorted out. My warning lights are lit up, i really think i've found my problem. 1 The radio doesnt work, 2 My stop light works but it says that it doesnt on the warning display, 3 My blinkers do not work a'tall 4 and the sound (buzzing) stops when I go into the REVERSE POS. on my M/T . . . I do believe I've found the culprit . . . Now how do I fix this? lol That's where i'm stuck @.

so here is my problem with my radio i am sure. the pictures i tried to be clear; there seems to be a piece missing that connects one side of the fuse to the wiring harness on the block. Its just not there. I circled in the picture. I compared to other fuse slots, and they all have a piece that looks like a rolling-bar/conduit of sorts that triggers the electrical connection when a fuse is inserted from the brown/red wire to the yellow, creating a complete circuit. Maybe this should fix the radio problem My radio doesn't turn on at any position right now And there is weird buzzing, is definately coming from the fuse block itself. . . But i can't see any blue sparking or arcing of any kind, so I can only assume its the terminal that is busted is somehow grounding out. Though, i can't smell anything is burnt either... I unfortunately am broke, and do not have access to a multimeter at the moment or amperage meter so this makes it difficult. Unfortunately, how it looks from carfiche's electrical diagram of the fuse box, i may have blown that entire line out. . .

So this just leaves me baffled, i have a buzzing sound from the fuse block that inside the passenger side on the right of the feet for a 1983 280ZX, and tonight the block started buzzing. It is distinctly the fuse block, i placed my ear next to it and it was directly from it. I've never experienced this before. The noise turns off when I go into reverse (5-speed man.) What could be causing this, it seems like a short that may have to do w/ the reverse switch w/ the block but removing the fuse did not cause the sound to go away. now, also, the lights on my dashboard like BRAKE! and FUEL! are lit up; and my voltmeter does not read though i have plenty of gas... Any ideas??

could be an alternator problem; i have the slave cylinder issue too. If i don't start it and ride it twice a week it'll have a puddle near the tire of brake fluid and just suck air. . . got brand new one $16 from adv ato prts. no more problems! ...

oh man great car! nice paint job. I love 280zx, it was absolute dream when i first peeled out and jumped the car again into second gear; mine is a little unhappt at the moment but will come with cosmetics soon

Yeah, the guy said he called around and got $500, would sell all to me for $300- I'm not looking to spend that much; his prices are inflated, he said he put $800 into the car and wants to get most of what he can out of it, so I think he's just trying to make some bucks; but he can either junk the car for $100 or sell me some parts for $100-$175 and walk away with still more to part out.

Yes; His price on the car is high; especially for one w/ a rusted frame. I expect him to want more; but I'm a collector, i haggle people all day. I hope I can stay around the prices i indicated above; low-side or not, he wants to get rid of the car then he should just part this stuff out especially since all his other deals fell through; I mean, despite the low prices I would be doing him a favor lol i'm going to view the car later on today or tomorrow.

Yo guys, So i'm resurrecting my two-face Z car this week, a hood and the front right parts of the car. Was curious if anyone had haggling advice on the prices, i'm thinking $20 for the 1/4 panel $35 for the hood $20 for the light cowl & for the bracket to hold the light in place and $65 for the entire left door and $25 for the interior door panel for passsenger. . . he wants $1200 for the entire car w/ a rusted frame, so i'm not sure what exactly he's expecting in price, he wants $800 for the motor/tranny combo; so I figure this would be feasable seeing as the "rest of the car" in his eyes is worth $400. . . I just dont have anywhere to put the car.

I've actually got the same problem. I was doing body work to my car; which was in an accident to begin with; but my left lamp was the only one working afterward, leaving my right lamp only lit dim and orange rather than bright/white. I've also read up on a headlight sensor in the haynes manual. wtf is that? i've never heard of a headlight sensor before Also- i was stuck on HIGH BEAMS too after the accident.

Nice. Gene Perez; heard of him before, he does very very very good work, but is very very very pricey. You get what you pay for at this point I guess

Need a good recommendation for some body work... mainly work on the frame to get knocked back into place... around the tampa bay area

Argle bargle. So, unfortunately, I got into a wreck in my S130 on July 4th (and yes, i was freakin' sober not even a sip of booze. The roads were extremely wet and well... lets just say apparently gone unnoticed.... there was a patch on my tire inside that was as soft as a baby's bottom and i hydroplaned into a wall.) it damaged the front right of the car; knocking my bumper to the left (driver side) and even denting my hood as well as destroying that 1/4 panel above the wheel. My headlight as well as the headlight cowl were destroyed, and i eventually just removed the 1/4 panel, headlight fixture and replaced teh headlight itself. Mind you, my car is still smashed inward a bit, i mechanic-wired up the headlight so it wouldn't wobble around and i could have a 2nd light while driving at night; But, the lamp only comes on slightly, and my headlights are stuck on highbeam; the switch doesn't turn it on or off anymore just stays on. My driver lamp works fine, but the passenger, even after a new lamp is still barely lit. I couldn't see any damage to the pig-tails (connector). Has ANYONE ever experienced this before and could give an idea of where the hell to look? (not to mention this happened two days after i bought the turbo, ex. mani, downpipe and return line for the ZX but is still in a tub on my porch)

This has ultimately helped me; I just purchased the exhaust manifold and turbo + return line and down pipe via ebay for $232 US. I researched turbo's long ago and have come to a lot of conclusions about them, but this is sucha great example of 'specific' knowledge on this car which helps so much more! Thanks again for taking the time to throw it all together in one nice package!