JDM RICE

Had the car for about a year now, and this is where I'm at... A little frustration with finding time to work on the car, cash flow isn't as great due to more expenses..etc Typically I have built cars under a year, but this one seems like its going nowhere - Interior: Interior is gutted, pieces are everywhere - Exterior: Fair, some rust spots, pass floor pan needs to be redone Just some parts that i've accumulated: Series 1 RB25DET w/ 58k miles. Infinity Machining Aluminum engine mounts Griffin Alum dual pass radiator Walbro 255l fuel pump Q45 VLSD differential S14 dashboard and interior pieces here is an older pic I had when I first got it ***NEW PIX*** AS she sits, you can see I was last working on a 5 lug conversion Engine shots, fitment, mounts..etc pix Shifter placement, and also passenger side floor pan. Note the S14 Dashboard Griffin Dual Pass Radiator Thank you for letting me waste your time

hmm, with that said, were the Supra mounts significantly easier to fit and offer a better OVERALL clearance? I know EXACTLY what you're talking about with the Dodge mounts.

Specifically the later S30s, I think I've got the 3rd version of the tranny mounts in my 78' I'm looking to get some ideas when I begin to fab the mounts. Ive got the Rick Wong mounts, and the way the motor sits, I had to remove the OEM tunnel brackets to clear the tranny and speed sensor. So I guess I'm starting from scratch. Anyways, I'm looking to get some ideas. I'm looking for simplicity and strength..if there is such a thing

any pictures of the RB mounts?

i've researched the 1jz/2jz swap, and from what I was reading, the R154 was a viable option to bolt onto those motors, so assuming that these were pretty stout engines to begin with, the R154 SHOULD hold up pretty well. also, they are fairly easy to find for reasonable prices

I think my oil pan sits about 1/2 inch or so lower then the cross member if I remember correctly, but its been a while since I looked. so if the Supra isolators its less offset, this would put the shifter near the very front of the shifter hole wouldn't it? Mine is about 1/2 the way towards the center of the shifter hole with the Dodge mounts also, how much thicker are the supra isolators?

well i finally found some free time, and took a look at the driveshafts... so how exactly did you remove the u joints from the driveshaft? I don't see any clips or snaprings or anything of that sort. It looks like a cap or something possibly any help would be appreciated!

I ended up buying the Griffin model from Summit Racing since lead times for shipping for the PRC model is unknown. Instock and 2-Day Air shipping was only $26, or you can do your standard ground shipping which is free. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=GRI%2D1%2D28182%2DX&N=700+0&autoview=sku

you're on your own as far as the tranny mount goes for those who already own these mounts... QUESTION: Where did the supra mounts and your shifter location come out to? the reason why I ask is because I actually ended up using the isolators from Parts America from a '60's Dodge. The bolts are offset allowing your to push the motor back even further-about another inch or so. With that said, my shifter is nearly dead in the middle. Are the Supra isolators offset as well? If they are not, then I would suspect the shifter would be a little forward eh?

word! good lookin out, just what I was looking for, the SEARCH didn't work as well for me as it did for you

I've thought about using an R33 spec radiator as well. you got any wider pix?

What are you guys using as far as radiators for your RB? I'd like to keep both inlets on the left side to keep everything clean. I was thinking about using an S13/S14 Radiator used for RB conversions. The dimensions are close, but I'm not 100% positive on a good fit. Are there any other direct options that I can think of?

JHOT imports hands down! best importer I've ever dealt with, AWESOME customer service, SUPERB packaging, completeness of motorsets (driveshaft, intercooler, all wiring, fuel pump...etc) and also nice prices to boot mine had 56,000 miles on it here are some pix of my shipment

anyone know of any other contact info or anyone selling these mounts? I sent an email without any response from them

do you have any pictures of this?

I'm playing around with mounts right now seeing what would best fit my setup, but i think I need to order these Rick Wong mounts. As of right now, I'm using the stock L28 mounting brackets and mounts, but it sits the motor TOO LOW..lol The oil pan sits about an inch or so lower than the cross member. I'm gonna email them and see if they have any available.

what all did you have to do about changing the rear flange? I havn't looked into it quite yet

lol, I thought you were talking to me about 502...I'm JDM RICE on there Lp

trust me i've read them tons of times! I'm gonna try a few different mount setups to see what best fits my setup, but this is one of them. anyways, since we're already talking about it, is there a STICKY on how to swap the diff flange or is it something that has to be taken to a shop?

Ok, so I pulled my R33 drive shaft out of the motorset of my RB25DET and set it next to my 78 automatic and it looks like I could just unbolt the front portion of the R33 drive shaft and the lengths are nearly identical within +/- 1 inch. The flange looks to be the same as the bottom portion that goes to the rear diff. this is just a theoretical idea, but it looks like I could just bolt it all in with the exception of the long nose diff flange which I think can be worked out. I will take pictures when I get a change to show you guys what I mean, but it looks like it just MIGHT work anyone encounter this yet?

lol, i just ordered these mounts and they're now $2.98 each! should be picking them up today at Advance Autoparts

WOW! plan on making any of those? I would buy one

I bought my RB25DET motorset from JHOT imports, first class quality, prices and customer service. They have a location in TX and GA.

Here's my $200 78 280Z. I bought it from the original owners who bought it brand new. It is a California car, hence the license plate. She runs, but I'm pulling the motor in favor of something better Overall the body is super straight with mostly surface rust. The hatch and passenger side floor board are gonna be fun to deal with.

do you guys see any problem with the e-brake relocation to the driver's side, or would you guys just install a JDM center console?