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Everything posted by TheCrazySwede

  1. Yup, everything sits well. No gunk or corrosion either. I checked my vacuum via the port that connects to the brake booster and my gauge is hopping all over the place, suggesting a vacuum leak somewhere. Manifold is tight and all the gaskets on the Carbs seem to seat properly. Since this is a new engine (~1,000miles), could it be needing a valve adjustment after break-in? Perhaps that's what's giving me those wonky readings.
  2. Yup, I checked the needles and seats and also made sure they were tight. I tested them one by one with pump running and when seated none of them leaked. I wanted to try lowering the fuel pressure down to 3psi to see if it made a difference - and it didn't. Floats are all set at 29-30mm (spec is 29-31mm) Yet I am still running rich with fuel dripping from the pump nozzles into the barrels. I also tried smaller size pump nozzles and same thing is happening. I do notice that even with pump and motor off, there's still dripping from the nozzle into
  3. Ok, so I tested my needles and all of them seat properly. Ran pump with one unseated top at a time and all the seated ones remained shut and never leaked. My fuel pressure is still within spec and hasn't been an issue before...but what can I lower it to? 3psi?
  4. Hello fellow Z'ers, Recently started having an issue on my Z running really rich and I can see fuel dripping from the nozzle into the barrels. Car ran excellent for months; then suddenly went to start it and noticed my AFR in the 9's and noticed the drip. The motor is not stock; has a .495 lift and 290 duration, so keep that in mind. Idle Jets it ran - 65, but I also tried swapping in 62.5 and 60's and the AFR stayed the same. Mixture screws are 1.5 turns out. Fuel Pressure is right below 4psi (with 3.5 - 5psi spec) and was tested with two different gaug
  5. Ok, it's been a while since I gave an update, so here it goes! Every wire in the car, from front to back, has been redone, replaced or discarded. The car runs on what is needed. No heater, no fan controls, no radio, no antenna switch - not even the fuel light was spared. The car runs on only what's needed, nothing more and nothing less. The issue with the idle and pilot jets is resolved, too. Idles and runs on all six cylinders now! I'm not sure what did it, but I replaced my filter, cleaned my tank, cleaned out the carbs as best as I could and messed
  6. I've tried swapping plugs and it's only that cylinder. Haven't tried swapping wires, but the wires are brand new MSD spark plug wires. It could be the dizzy, but I don' think the issue is there once the car is under load above 3500-4k RPM, which is weird. The cap looks good, but I'm gonna try replacing that next. Compression check comes out healthy and strong. If the valves were an issue, I'd imagine the issue would be more noticeable at higher RPM, but it seems to only be an idle issue. It actually runs much better at higher RPM, which makes me think it's an issue with the idl
  7. I checked that and I get spark. The Cyl5 plug is wet and covered in fuel, whereas the others aren't. Still, unplugging Cyl5 does nothing to the engine and it still idles with 5 cylinders. I'm thinking maybe something is stuck (like the idle jet maybe?) and it springs to life once the mains kick on. Not sure why the plug would be wet, though.
  8. So it looks like it's just Cyl5 now, so it idles on 5cyl. Removing the spark plug does nothing on this cyl. I replaced all my plugs and issue persists. When I removed plug 5, I noticed that it smelt of fuel and that it was a bit wet around the ring. Does this mean it gets fuel, but no spark?
  9. I fear perhaps I might have to go down this route. i also don't have filters on my carbs yet - could dirt and crap have gotten in and clogged some bits up? Thanks for the advice! I feel like I'm always taking two steps forward and one step back, haha
  10. I checked those and nothing seems blocked. Even swapped them with ones from running cylinders and got nothing. This is really odd... I read online that someone screwed the mixture screws in too tight once and something got stuck so it didn't back out when he started richening them. I highly, highly doubt that's my issue, cause these are brand new carbs and I've been very gentle with pretty much everything. I'm gonna head back to the spark issue again. I tested spark from the wires straight from the dizzy, but I only visually inspected each plug. I didn't swap plugs (or can't remember i
  11. Wires are correct. I checked the idle jets and passage - used compressed air just in case. No change.
  12. You, gentlemen, are Wizards. After reading both your replies over, it grew on me that something wasn't running right. You guys are on a Sage level of Z Ownership - found out I was running on 4cyl when idling! No change in idle if I disconnect Cyl4 and Cyl5. I tested both cylinders for spark and got it - compression test comes out good. Adjusting the idle mixture screws, however, don't do anything. These are two different screws on two different carbs. I can hear the engine acting differently if I adjust every other idle mixture, but the ones over Cyl4 and 5 show no difference.
  13. Not really quiet, but not shouting by any means. It's a custom made Abarth exhaust tailored for my Z. It sounds a bit odd because of the way it was recorded + the way YouTube handles audio. Also helps if you have good speakers hooked up! (A laptop doesn't do it justice.) It sounds much, much deeper in person.
  14. Quick update: Bought a new harness and I'm going to strip the car down and re-do all the wiring. Figure I'm going to want to do that anyway. Hoping I find something along the way. Here's the sound of the car with the carbs better tuned (Getting a hang of it!)
  15. 1. Yup 2. Nope - nothing disturbing alt from what I can see 3. Haven't tried running without alt yet. Will try this and report back! 1977 280z The stock motor had 0 issues. These problems appeared the moment I did the engine swap. That's why I thought I might have had an improper ground - but I can't find any. You know what, the other day my "door open, key in ignition" chime was sounding reaaaally funny. I just assumed it had something to do with the 16v+ being pumped out. But yeah, the voltage drop issue does sometimes appear when just inserting my key int
  16. The alternator is new. So far, I've tried the stock alternator, a newer alt with internal voltage regulator (did the bypass trick) and now a new alt with external regulator hooked up to a brand new voltage regulator. All produced same results. I'll try to run it without an alt altogether and see what readings I'll get! Haven't tried that yet! I get the same symptoms with pretty much every accessory, except for turn signals. At times of short, turning off the car and removing my key brings voltage back, but simply inserting my key into the ignition (without waiting a bit) results
  17. Yup, with engine running. Not running shows the standard 12.x. Meter is good and tested. I might actually still be hitting 17v - I didn't linger long enough to get an accurate reading. As I was getting a reading, I noticed that the link was burning up again so I turned the car off. But I did see "16.x" show up on the screen before I put the meter down. How should I go about checking it for shorts without the battery connected? Thanks for the help! EDIT: You can see a little smoke coming from where the fusible link is right at the end of the video
  18. Having some more wonderful electrical issues :/ To try and attempt diagnosing my electrical issues, I've reverted most of the electrics to stock: New Externally regulated alternator New voltage regulator New battery cables (x2) New OEM Fusible links With key set to "ON" - Alternator reads 12.20v Fusible Links read 12.20v Battery reads 12.23v As soon as I turn on my headlights, the volt gauge in the car drops to 0. Running lights, parking lights and dome light won't come on. Same effect occurs if I try to turn on the fan, use wipers or hazard lights. Headlights come on
  19. Thanks bud! Eiji is very knowledgable and really knows his stuff. I bought the exhaust from Abarth Exhausts: http://www.abarth-exhausts.com/datsun/ If you scroll down, you'll actually find my exhaust as an 'alternative' version of the stock exhaust setup. Owner decided to offer it as a special order since I requested to have a much bigger inlet. I bought two of them. One is on the car. The other is on display in the house Motor is amazing! Feels like going from a plastic knife to a Katana. It really is that sharp! Low-End torque is great, but she really prefers to be past
  20. Exhaust by Abarth
  21. 1977 280Z with upgraded alternator and voltage regulator jumped. My gauge in the car will read 14.5v and car starts just fine. If I turn on my running lights, all electronics die out in the car and gauge drops to 0. Turn everything off and wait a while - power comes back on. If I use my turn signals, nothing happens, but if I use my hazards - same thing. All electrics die and voltage reads 0. Same goes for fan. My headlights work, but nothing else does. Even during the "all electrics dead" period, I am able to crank the engine and start the car. Using a volt
  22. Out with the Webers - in with OER Carbs My 'JDM' inspired exhaust Quick Rev:
  23. Thanks bud! It's been a long time coming, that's for sure! For now, I'm just playing around with different tunes on the carbs to see what runs best. The setup that it came with was too lean A. What the Carbs came with / B. What I'm trying out 40DCOE Weber Carburetors A. Choke: 28 / Mains: 115 / Air: 170 / Emulsion: F11 / Idle: 45F9 B. Choke: 34 / Mains: 145 / Air: 175 / Emulsion: F11 / Idle: 55F9 I also got some air horns and those mesh lookin' air filters. I'll post some videos once I get her up and running well!
  24. The stock EFI Engine: Engine out of the car: New Engine out of the Car: New Engine in the Car (Pardon the mess from the oily hands!):
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