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TheCrazySwede

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Posts posted by TheCrazySwede

  1. You don't think given all things equal, other than the engine, that a tastefully modded car that still appears stock to everyone but the purists wouldn't gain the edge and most likely a higher sales point? I can see engine swaps and even possibly the turbo swap hindering an otherwise stock cars sale or at least not giving it an advantage but Eijis work seems like it would be an exception and something I would gladly advertise!

     

    If I ever get a L24 that I want to keep as original as possible, but I'd want it rebuilt and have some minor adjustments made to get the motor to run healthier than ever, while still keeping matching numbers, I'd definitely send my motor to Eiji. 

     

    If you asked him to get a performance build while keeping all the parts OEM, this is still possible. I doubt forged pistons, rods, better valves, etc. will really harm the selling price of a Z, given that everything is kept with matching numbers (Head/Block.) I don't think the Z's are near the point where keeping EVERYTHING original will get you a selling price anywhere close to one that kept it's L-Series roots, but got a performance overhaul (sort of what I ended up doing.)

  2. so when do the youtube vid's come out?

     

    =)

     

    Haha, as soon as I get the funds ready to finish the build! I'm already way above my budget as it is...and I'm currently working and going to school, so the build has since slowed a bit.

    Once she's up and running, you guys will be the first to know, haha.

     

    This is the only pic I've taken, right as she landed back home:

     

    5zWzDO2l.jpg

  3. I noticed that you say that this build is around final cost $12k. If you don't mind me asking what is all included in this final cost. Internals, machining, shipping etc. .I'm new to this as well (have my 72 240z shell was a wedding gift since july 2013,slowly but surely) previously wanting to go the sr20det route. I was now given a N42 block. And now thinking I should go from there. And honestly I sooooooo feel you on that Ferrari sound.

     

    Also what transmission are you planning to run. I've heard nothing but great things about Datsun Spirit and his commitment to excellence. Truly very compelling. Great build.

     

    Hey bud!

     

    Yeah, the final cost of the build will be around $11-12K. I got my engine back from Eiji about a week or two ago, so it's currently sitting in the garage. So far, I have over $8K invested into it, but I still need the carbs, ignition system and a couple of other things...should cost around $11-12K when finished.

     

    Basically, I went for his Stage III package: https://datsunspirit.com/stage-iii/

     

     Some of the extra stuff I got:

     

    - New Rocker Arms

    - Adjustable Cam Timing Sprocket

    - Zinc Plated Dipstick

    - A 9lbs Flywheel

    - New Crank Pulley

    - New Thermo Housing Kit

    - Shipping (There and back again)

     

    Then you have the base stuff:

     

    - Stage III Engine Build

     * 89mm Kameari Pistons + H-Beam Rods + New Crank (3.0L Setup) + Head Work (New Cam has .290 Dur/.490 Lift) = Rod/Stroke Ration: 3.53

     

    - Triple Weber 45DCOE's with Kameari Intake (Haven't gotten this yet)

     

    - Currently thinking about getting a MSD Racing ignition system

     

    I'm also going with a 5-Speed from the ZX. If I'm not mistaking, it looks really familiar....looks a lot like a T5....

     

    Eiji Hosomi at DSI is a genius, to say the least. A bit inpatient at times (As a newcomer to this L-Series engines, I could tell I was stretching his patience quite a lot!) but he really knows what he's doing. Mind you, I believe in his talent so much that I actually ended up going over my budget...by 100%. He's that good, haha. Also, the idea of having a L-Series motor built the "Japanese Way" with their incredible know-how and attention to detail really appealed to me. As Eiji told me; "we only do L-engine and I drive L-engine cars every day, and we think about L-engines day in day out and all the time. I doubt they (or others) can say the same."

  4. Could also get a truck shifter and bend/cut/thread it to what you want.

     

    The setup I was going for would include a short shifter + extender. I know MSA sells one and, in fact, the thread size is 10mm....making the available extenders compatible with it.

    The only worry I had is the fact that the 5 Speed I plan on putting into my Z comes from a 280ZX and the short shifter kit offered by MSA is only compatible with tranny's up to '78.

     

    I don't know too much about welding/cutting, etc. If I got a truck shifter, can it be made into a short-shifter (to decrease throw) while keeping its length? I'd have to ask a muffler shop or something to help out.

  5. I bought one from 9k racing GT-1. You don't need an extender. It so long that the knob is close to the steering whee.

     

    Here is where I got the knob from 9kracing

     

    And here is what the knob looks like installed

     

    Thanks for the reply!

    I wanted to get an extender so that the shifter sits higher....sort of to mimic the shifters of 50's and 60's Ferrari GT cars

     

    P009Web.jpgP014Web.jpg

  6. Dear Forums,

     

    I have a '77 280Z and I wanted to install an extender for the stock shifter to decrease the distance between the steering wheel and the knob. 

    From what I understand, the original thread size is 8mm....is that correct? I can't find an extender that fits that size.

     

    Anyone know of one? 

     

    Thanks!

  7. I looked at your build and all your picks. It looks awesome!!! Super great!

     

    I have just be learning about the L28 and I just put my first one together, kinda practice. I'm going to build a good one soon. I found some good ideas like the l24 crank and rods with the flat tops you have .. It's kinda a high rev short stroker, I think I aquired one by luck. But you might really like that build.

     

    Also, why not go ITB with a MS vs the carb. It's about the same price if not cheaper an IMO way better. I ran carbs on two different motors, and with ethnol in the gas it makes tuning your carb a constant project....I'm not a fan.

     

    But I'm stoked for your build, it looks great. I'm excited to see more!

     

    -Luke

     

    Yeah, I've read about these "stroker kits" people have for their Z's. I wanted something more unique and special, so I when I came across Eiji's resume and what he can offer; I was in love.

     

    The thing about the carbs is very personal for me. As I've mentioned before, I am no veteran of building motors. This is my first involvement in a build. I also have no experience with Weber carbs, let alone three of them. The reason I insist on having them, despite some members advising that I don't due to their complexity, is because I grew up loving them. One of my favorite cars from childhood is the 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO. To me, cars just don't get better than that. When I first saw a 250 start-up in person, my ears melted to the sound of the carbs...all six of them! I've been lucky enough to have been in contact with many GTO's since then, and their sound is by far my favorite thing about the car. In fact, the GTO is what led me to fall in love with Z's. To me, it's the Japanese GTO. It has the styling and definitely has the performance capability....but it doesn't have the engine. That's the whole reason why I'm doing this build to begin with...a super car needs a super car engine, which is what my Z is getting. Why the Weber carbs? Because those are the same ones the Ferrari's ran on their engines. In short, I want to make my Z a fantasy super car that never really happen. My own Datsun GTO...

     

    Sorry for the long and historical reply regarding my adolescent years, haha. But now you know.

  8. Hey Swede does Elji do all machining in house? Also in your discussions with him did he mention whether he uses a torque plate?

    Yup, all done in house, from what I understand. No mention of torque plates. I've had about 60 emails with him thus far and most of them have been regarding goals and motives and not so much about actual procedures. As I've mentioned, this is my first involvement with an L28 build, so throwing out procedures first hand would result in everything flying over my head and just cause confusion on my end. I have since done a lot of research and can now better understand the work being done to this motor, so Eiji is going to follow me along as the build progresses.

     

     

    My god cannot wait to see this come together.

     

    Tell me about it! I am really excited. Having spoken to Eiji about the goals for this motor, I have come to the conclusion of what exactly it is that I want. I want this motor, and eventually the whole car, be a representation of what a Japanese supercar of the 60's would have been like. Something that would fit right into the same alley of 250GTO's, D-Types and GT40's, as examples. I compete in a lot of motorsport (started karting when I was 4-5) and I've had the honor of driving a lot of these ol' supercars at historic events. There's an essence there that modern cars simply don't have. The Z, to me, has that essence, but it's missing the character. The motor, I figured, would be the heart and soul of the build, so that's why I wanted to start with it first. I eventually want to turn the whore car into an ol' supercar, which should prove to be a lot of fun!

  9. Been a while since any updates, hows your motor coming along?

     

    As of now, Eiji hasn't started work on it. I asked him to hold off until after New Year to start on it, for financial reasons.

    I think my final bill is around $12k with shipping costs and all, and currently I'm about half-way clear. If he had started on it already, I wouldn't have the full amount paid by the time he'd be done with it, so I asked him to start later so I could pay him accordingly.

     

    Thanks for checking in! Once the build actually begins, I'll update you guys.

  10. Ah I was considering ordering someJE pistons with a similar compression height to use with maxspeed's fj20 140mms rods. I believe they are actually lighter than DSI's and a helluva deal at $450. Figure I could get most the advantages for about half the price.

     

    Very curious to see how your build turns out. I've shared a few emails with Eiji a few times, very nice guy. His SPL heads are gorgeous.

     

    I believe the 139.5mm Kameari FJ20 Rods are the same ones Eiji uses, along with Kameari Pistons.

  11. Where's it going? Eiji or Rebello?

     

    Edit: Didn't read, it's going to Eiji. Keep us posted on your experience with him. I've heard tons about people who have dealt with Rebello, but not much about those who have dealt with Eiji.

     

    Will do!

    So far, I've had about 50+ emails sent back and forth with Eiji on the other end. He is very professional and courteous. I'll keep things updated as the build commences.

  12. "I didn't want an all out powerhouse of an engine....instead, I wanted a responsive one."

     

    That is a confusing statement. Can you expound on that a bit? Torquey? 

     

    Nah, not necessarily torquey.

    I'm thinking more in terms of engine speed. I asked about the different pistons and rods, etc. that Rebello uses on his builds and then looked around and found some Japanese pistons (Kameari) that weight around 280g (compared to the 432g pistons Rebello uses.) Eiji uses those and his own rods, too, which weight in about 300g lighter than the L24 ones. I wrote down all the specs from both engine builders, and when comparing the two, I liked the numbers I was getting from Eiji. Included in the build is also a 9lbs Flywheel, which will drastically help regardless of what else you're rocking inside.

     

    In short, I like the idea of having lightweight and strong internals that can handle a high-revving conditions and get there in a quick manner. That's what I mean with responsive. The same power figures with Rebello has me running on race gas (~12:1CR) with a LD28 crank and some sacrifice in every day drive ability. Eiji's build (because of the different parts he uses and how he works the heads) has me getting close to the same power figures, can run on pump gas and the engine operates extremely quick for a street motor. I've spoken to a few people on different forums, and one guy has had motors built by both parties (Rebello and Eiji) and he preferred the way the lighter engine operates. He has, so far, ordered 3 builds from him. No idea what he's up to with those, haha. He emailed me videos of his car (it's a white 240 with a black hood), so I'll ask him if it's ok if I share them.

  13. Ok, so my build has taken a rather different turn.

     

    I've gotten to the point in my research where I have learned all the things I wanted to know in order to start off a build. 

    I have spoken a lot with Dave Rebello and I have come to the decision that I did not want to take my motor down that route. This is not because of Dave's lack of professionalism or talent, but more in terms of needs. The different motor builds, the more I looked into them, all sounded nice, but none of them really fit what I wanted. The power figures were all nice, of course, but I decided that I didn't want an all out powerhouse of an engine....instead, I wanted a responsive one.

     

    After talking to a few people who have worked with him before, I have decided to go with Eiji at DSI. This guy is just great. I've never encountered customer service and eye for detail on his level before. After many, many lengthy emails and phone conversations, we finally have a build down that I am completely satisfied with....well, my wallet isn't, but that's a different story!

     

    I'll update this thread with the build details as they happen, but in short, the engine will be:

     

    - L28 Crank

    - N42/N42

    - Block bored (89mm)

    - DSI Pistons and Rods (I believe they are 29mm Kameari Pistons (280g!!) with custom 139.5mm rods.)

    - *Cam is under consideration

    - Triple 45 DCOE Webers

    - Compression Approx. 10.5 - 11.0

    - Power Approx. 260/250

     

    I'll update this thread with any updates!

  14. Get with Dave and get his recommendations... Yeah there's a lot of "talk" out there that guides people, but the reality is the "couple grand up front" pays for the hard parts...and for a shop owner that means money they aren't out so they can keep the lights on! Especially if they're bought through them so they make a little on markup...

     

    I took business from my former employer because they put THE US NAVY on "credit hold"... They needed serious work on two machines, I wrote the stipulation in the service contract that the work would commence upon them buying the parts in advance. They accepted it... Some $60,000 paid to us up front for about $35,000 in our-cost parts. That made life for out little company MUCH easier not having to shell out our ENTIRE cash reserve to buy parts for a job that we wouldn't get paid for four more months or so...

     

    Ended up lots of add-on work was necessary (consisting mostly of labor) which ended up invoiced daily to a CREDIT CARD meaning instant payment to US of $3,000 daily! Everything was "$3,000" at that point. We ended up billing 60k in parts, $24,000 in additional credit card purchases, plus a flat rate labor charge for two men and four weeks labor of $40,000.... With ZERO outlay other than technicians salaries, lodging and living expenses. It really helped the cash flow situation. And that's where you get "the few grand up front." Same as any shop, once the parts are bough and paid for UP FRONT (especially if you have margin on the parts) it's a zero sum game...you have enough money in your kitty for some prelim machine work...and really your final billing is labor...you get paid when it's all done. Since no money is out of your pocket, most guys can wait to get paid...especially if it's not costing them anything!

     

    I digress...

     

    Yup, true that.

     

    I'm not complaining. The build time usually takes a good 6-8 months, depending on how many times you decide to bug Dave about it. That's more than enough time for me to pay off the motor and have it ready. 

     

    As I mentioned in my original post, this is my first motor and my first "real" experience with restoration. I'm giggling like a school girl at the mere thought of a Rebello motor, so I'm obviously very excited! Still reading up on all the things I'll have to do to get the engine ready to run in the car. I'm sure I can ask Dave all the questions I'll have (I doubt I'm the only doofus he has dealt with) but I would rather arrive prepared and not naked...figuratively speaking, of course.

     

    Thanks a lot everyone for all the help and support! I'll keep the thread going with any updates.

  15. I'm glad that was clarified as something appeared lost in the translation.

    You can spend $10K there, but unless your making a turnkey complete package tested race motor, you won't get close to $10K.

    What you posted is in-line with what others have paid, and is not much more than for a competently-built stock rebuild with a similar warranty support package would have.

     

    The myth of the slapped together $1,500 stroker persists from people searching 20year old Internet builds (sometimes totally disregarding they seemed to be "rebuilt" every 10,000 miles or so...)

     

    You can spend the money once, or let it bleed you continually over the years. I like the one-payment and drive setup myself! Good luck in the process.

     

    You see, I was always under the impression that Rebello wouldn't even touch your motor if you didn't show up with a bag full of cash, haha.

    After talking to some people who are currently undergoing business with the Rebello team, and talking to Dave personally, I got a rough idea of the reality of the situation. Dave even mentioned that he doesn't need a full payment up front. A couple of grand is all he needs to get the ball rolling, and he can even cycle the billing or pay the rest once the motor is ready. Given that I live about an hour away from their shop, I was gonna bring in my L28 and have their talented hands put it together for me. 

     

    As of now, I'm doing some research to see where I would go next, given that I do go with the Rebello route. Things I was curious about are things like ignition systems and accessories. I'm sure I can speak with Dave more about it. I've learned that I would need another starter (This one was recommended: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?tab=search&partnum=1870137) but I don't know much about anything else. I assume I can use the later modeled oil pump and such. I got plenty of reading to do!

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