justinr54321

Ok, did some research, and someone changed out the point system in the dizzy to a magnetic pick up. I have a new MSD magnetic pick up on order through autozone, hopefully this works. I'll find out on the 6th when it comes in. Been a real headache.

Well, I have no way of knowing without a second person to help me crank the engine as I check for spark. Also, I was asking if there were any fusible links going to the ignition coil and ignition system, and if so, where at.

Ok, I have an early 1972 240z, and it won't turn over. I've replaced the ignition coil, and the distrubutor looks fine. And I don't think I'm getting any spark at all. Is there any fusible links between in the ignition system? And if so, where are they? And what else can I look at? And is anyone able to come over this weekend or next to help? Thank you. Justin

Justin-1972 240z, restoration project, but runs strong...

Awesome info, thanks for that, for it cleared up a lot. I know with the engine I have in mine, which is basically stock with a N42 head, I'm going to upgrade it to EFI and electronic ignition. Going MSD with both. Doing the ignition first, then convert it from the carbs to EFI.

Was wondering if anyone could explain the difference between the odd fire and even fire ignition systems. Its confusing for me, and my time is limited to do research. So please, someone help, thank you.

How about up here in Washington? Lynnwood or Seattle area?

Hey guys, thanks for all the help, got my carbs tuned out and mostly everything else. She is running pretty sweet now, with a few exceptions. I'm still looking for pics of the stock engine so I can get everything hooked up correctly for the vacuum system, unless there is someone in my area that could give me a hand with that. Also, my RPM's are redlining at 5500. I'm thinking that it might be a timing issue, but I'm not too sure. The last time I rebuilt a car was when I was 15-16 years old, helping my uncle rebuild an old 1979 cougar. Well, I'm off to bed, I've spent too much time up and about after work. Laters.

I bought the one you reccommended because I've read a lot of bad reviews about JC Whitney. Anyhow, I've been searching for a shop manual for my 240z. Does anyone have one they can email to me? Its driving me batty. I have the Haynes manual, but itssketchy at best when it comes to diagrams and stuff. Thanks.

I thought about that one, and also this one: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2008076/p-2008076/N-111+10214+600017960/c-10114 Just don't know which would be the better pick. Probably the one you mentioned above. Thanks for the help.

Ok, been looking for a carb sync tool, and don't know which one to get. What would a good one be to purchase?

Ditto. I can't wait until mine is looking that nice and sounding that good. I've got a couple of years yet though.

Current update: Took off my valve cover today, and found 4 rocker arms that were not on, so in essence, I was running on 2 cylinders. Put them back on, no smoke at all. Now, I just need to get my hands on a set of feeler guages and a carb sync tool so I can finish out the engine. I wish I could get my hands on the guy who did work on the car before me and give him a piece of my mind, for I was almost stranded the other night, whcih is not fun. Well, more updates to come.

Well, I took off my carbs this morning, and found a bad gasket on the front carb, so I was getting coolant into the intake manifold, go figure, but after this rebuild of the carbs, and new gaskets, everything should be running fine. Thanks for all the advice and help.

Well, I am not losing coolant, and it did start happening after I put in the cleaner. I've heard of it before, and I had someone take a look at it, and they told me I was running rich. However, my carbs do need to be rebuilt, for I've tried getting then tuned in, and nothing, for I don't get the full RPM range, unless its my crank/cam shaft that is limiting it. This car was with a 17 y/o kid who let it sit for almost a year, and he got it off of some guy who was starting to restore it. I don't know what he did to it, so I am more than likely going to end up doing a full engine rebuild myself later down the line, getting it set up for a turbo... Any-hoo, thanks guys. I will try adjusting the carbs again tomorrow, and if no luck, then I will end up rebuilding them. Then save up some money and start buying the parts I need piece by pice for the engine rebuild. Shoot, I wish one of my friends would put me up on overhauling, then most of my problems would be solved, lol.

Ok, question, for I do not know if this is true or not. Is it possible that my Z might not be burning all the octane which is causing the white smoke? For after I did the oil change, I put Lucas fuel system cleaner in the tank with a fill up of Chevron with Techron premium gas, (91 octane rating). When I first start it, there are little puffs of white smoke that is barely noticable, and gets worsst when it warms up. I tried using a lot of carb and choke cleaner today, and didn't do any difference on the smoke, however, I did have to re-tune the idle settings and the carb balance was off, so I fixed that today too. (Found this out after I took off the whole air filter assembly). Now, when it idles up, idles up fine, until about 5,000 rpm's, then bogs down to 4,000, until I take my foot off the gas a little, then idles back up just fine. Now, when decelerating, I am getting a machanical popping sound. Is my idle settings still off a little bit? I'm about to take it in to Z Sport on Tuesday and I might have them adjust the carbs for me, if they don't need rebuilt, then I will do that myself, and then take it in to them. I do wish there was someone who could came and give me a hand a little bit, but oh well, its all the more fun figuring most of this stuff out for myself. Thanks everyone. Also, I can't find the air/fuel adjustment screws on these carbs. Can someone please post a picture of where they are located? The car was made in 2/72 (according to the label on the door fram on the driver's side).

Also, does anyone know whereI can find a diagram for the vacuum lines? I just want to make sure they are connected right. Thanks.

Thanks Mat. Well, the popping is while standing still and accelerating and decelerating, almost like my air pump might be bad, I don't have a pressure guage to see if it is or not. And the white smoke is really bad, all the way through all the rev's, after she warms up. And where do I find this video? Definately would be helpful in getting the engine tuned up while I get the body work done.

Well, I just bought my 1972 240 Z about 3 weeks ago now, and I've been tuning the carbs and engine out to where it won't sputter (it was sputtering about 3500 rpm's). I got that to stop, however, I'm now getting a popping sound with white smoke from the exhaust. Any ideas of what it could be? Any help is appreciated, and I live in Lynnwood, WA if anyone is able to come over and help me finish tuning this thing out. Thank you.

Sup everyone. Well, I just bought a 1972 240z yesterday (Sunday, 20 May 2007) for a restoration project, and will be taking some before pics of it as soon as I get it back form my mechanic, for I couldn't even get it home yesterday, (what else would I expect for $600), some sort of electrical issue, but I think we got it down to the alternator and the voltage regulator . However, it needs a lot of body work, inside and out, for I think the z has been here its whole life, and has some rust on it. Some tips owuld be appreciated, and I will be asking lots of questions, for after driving it yesterday for that short distance, I'm already in love with her. The engine is running strong, and after I'm done witht he cosmetics, I'm probably going to start on upgrades to the engine and tranny. I have a plan for her, and still brain storming, but one step at a time. I will post pics when I get the car back, and what I have in mind for her after I have everything all written up. Thanks in advance all.