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About Scarab73

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  • Location
    Severna Park, MD
  1. Scarab73


    If you have a "Robert's Oxygen" dealer in your area, you might contact them for someone in their shop, who might provide some direction. Also, don't overlook Community colleges offer courses too, at least, the ones in our area. Once you learn the fundamentals it's all practice. Also, should you pursue to learn, purchase the best auto-darkening helmet you can afford. Again, a "Robert's" has all of the necessary supplies. Maybe, they'll have a used MIG or TIG they'll let go for a good price. One of the tougher aspects of welding on auto bodies, is the metal is thin and one has to master tuning equipment and learning the technique to prevent "blowing" bigger holes in the panel, with the holes you're attempting to close LOL! Hopefully, you have a welder's supply or shop in your area. Good Luck!
  2. Scarab73


    Hello, Years ago when I checked with my local resto house about performing a bunch of required welding on my 65 Mustang, I was given the estimate of $15K for the rust repair only. Being a hands-on guy, I allocated $2K for body shop tools, including a MIG. After which, I researched and practiced. ^ years later my Mustang was on the road , with 90% of my own hands. To this day, that welder has paid for itself many times over. Don't cut yourself short, earn to weld and you'll never regret it.
  3. Hi, I've heard this too about the use of a return line to reduce the tendency for vapor lock. However, wouldn't a carb spacer aid in this and be a simple fix, that is, if this is the goal?
  4. Scarab73

    Rear end noise

    Hi, Sorry, can't offer any advice labor costs, as I usually do my own wrenching. I have a noise back there as well. So, I'll be visiting the area too. Good Luck!
  5. Scarab73

    Rear end noise

    Hi, By now, you would have replaced both universals on the drive shaft. So, still have the noise?
  6. Scarab73

    rear springs

    Thanks! I'll cruise that section. I guess, I'm still learning my way around this forum.
  7. Scarab73

    Turn crankshaft- pressure release sound

    HI, How does the engine run? Any smoke? As mentioned, a compression check would be revealing. How about an engine vac reading?
  8. Scarab73

    rear springs

    Hi all, Anyone know the height of the rear stock springs. I think mine have been cut in an effort to lower. Happy Motoring
  9. Scarab73

    '73 240Z rear hub bearings

    Hey Guys, Success!! I found the source of my rear vibration. It actually got worse when I took a another gear-head out for a short ride. It vibrated so bad, he was ready to leap out of a moving "Z". LOL! Anyway, after jacking it up, I started probing the half-shaft universals and found a couple of loose fastener that were hardware store grade crap. Then the real kicker was two of the drive-shaft to the pinion flange bolts were loose enough, that I could spend the lock washers. I plan to replace them all with grade 8 and self-locking nuts. Thanks to all who steered me in this direction.
  10. Scarab73

    '73 240Z rear hub bearings

    Thanks guys. All good stuff to know.
  11. Scarab73

    '73 240Z rear hub bearings

    Hi, Thanks for the very informative link. I learned a lot looking through your steps.
  12. Scarab73

    '73 240Z rear hub bearings

    Hey guys, Regarding my mention of not seeing that "peened nut", I saw a drawing showing the wheel bearings and realize it's opposite of the wheel rim flange and I will need to gain access by first removing the out board universal from the inner bearing flange. When I mentioned servicing the bearings, are they the type of bearing, one would grease pack?
  13. Scarab73

    '73 240Z rear hub bearings

    Hi, I much appreciate your reply. I'll take a look at this again. When I read through the shop manual for removing the hub bearing, there is no mention of any covered nut or grinding needed. After removing the wheel the hub has a solid center. Behind it are the 4 attachment bolts to the housing. My shop manual simply mentions to remove the 4 bolts, after disconnecting the universal on the other side. Then attach a slide hammer to the wheels studs and pop it out. See for reference....
  14. Hey Guys, I went out for a roadie this weekend. Out of the "blue" I get this, somewhat, weird vibration out of the RRear. So, I get back to the garage, jack'er up, remove the wheels and start looking. I pull and tug on the universals, no play. While I'm there, I lube the outers. The inners seem to be a PITA. So, I'm rotating the axels and hear, like a dry bearing sound? It's smooth, but, noisy, if you know what I mean. Now, as far as history, I don't any, as I'v just take possession this past spring and the PO was not much on documenting anything. So, being new, where do these bearings get their lubrication, if any? I didn't find any thing loose that might cause a right rear vibration, thus far. The only thing I can come up with is wheel balance and bad rear shocks, at the moment. Any ideas?
  15. HI, You can always visit your friendly auto parts supplier (AutoZone, Advance Auto etc) and have them check the alternator ckt. for proper output and the battery for shorted cells (load test). A proper operating AMP gauge might read slightly negative when cranking during start up, then, advance into the "+" side after the engine fires and is running. As a load is applied,(headlights, heater blower etc), the needle should swing more positive, thus, indicating a higher current draw. A corresponding voltmeter placed across the "+" and "-" battery terminals should greater than 12Vs with the engine running indicating a charging situation. If you turn the headlights on during this test, the Voltmeter should be seeing 14Vs, or more. This indicates there is more going inmto the battery than is being consumed, thus the ALT is operating as it should...charging the battery. If, as you say, its going "neg" when the brakes are applied, I suspect there is a short to ground in the taillights somewhere or an, otherwise, high resistance. Hope this helps.