Datz350

Any ideas, guys?? Why isn't the choke opening on it's own anymore? It's a manual choke. Why does it close after awhile? Why does it begin to close when I hit the gas? It never did this before. The car would spark on perfect every time. Just one hit of the pedal and vroom! Why doesn't the hit of the pedal before start-up open the choke anymore? HELP, please?

Just, fyi. The car is a 71 240z w/ sbc 305. The carb is a 4 barrel holley, not sure how many cfm. How would I find out?¿

Ok, been doing more research. It's a MANUAL choke. Noob like a MF..lol. Anyway, what regulates the choke. I know it's supposed to shut in cold weather, right? Stepping on the gas is supposed to open the choke a bit to let the fuel mixture be, rich?, enough for it to start. Then after awhile the car warms up and the choke remains open. My PROBLEM is that the choke will not open, "gradually", anymore. It stays a bit shut and makes the rpms idle high. Why isn't the choke opening up? Why do I have to open the choke manually? This is frustrating..

I think it's an automatic choke. I have to manually open the choke to start the car and then find the spot where the rpms are "calm". After that I let the car warm up and the choke will stay where I left it. Turning the car on and off eventually begins to shut the choke again raising the rpms until I get under the hood and position the choke where it's supposed to be and "calm" the rpms again. It's a holley 4 barrel. I noticed a screw with a spring that seems to push the choke open. How do I adjust it?

Ok, did some looking around and found out that my choke is the problem. Why isn't it keeping the throttle blade open? Why does it get stuck closed? Ideas would be appreciated

I have to keep opening it my self. The car will not turn on with the carb "butterfly flap" closed. I have to open it manually. Then the car is accelerated until I open the flap more. Theres usually a sweet spot when the rpms sound, normal? Why does the flap close after awhile? Why won't it stay open on that sweet spot? Sorry, I'm a newb to carbs..

240 views and no one has any info on this??

My girls heart.

Yeah. Figured out it was the front pinion bearing in the differential. Have yet to get it fixed. Any idea at how much I'm looking at?

No breeze. It's plastic molded to look like louvers. It's sealed up well, no water gets in.... Sooo, no one has seen this before?

Anyone have info?

Sorry this took so long here is a "better" picture.. Yea, it's a bit difficult to see out of, but not impossible.

Hopefully this worked. I tried downloading a picture.

I really wish this site would let me post pictures from my phone, but it doesn't. My 240 has no rear hatch glass. Instead it has a plastic/acrylic louver style window. I've been trying to find info on it without luck. Anyone know who made them and what it's called?

I think the 4.11 gears blinded me. I was too excited to feel the difference from the stock gears to actually question the condition of the diff. Thanks for the help, tho.

I'm having the same problem. Took it to a shop and told me it was a bad front pinion bearing. Hopefully it's under 200 to fix..

I was thinking it would be in the hundreds.. I paid 275 for the diff... I'm thinking I got ripped off..

Thanks for the help, brother. Problem ended up being bad battery cables and stuck starter. Finally got it started. Now I have fuel leaking from the top of the gas tank. I'm thinking one of the fuel lines is busted. Will be dropping the tank this sunday.

Found out that it needs replacement. Anyone know, more or less, what it would cost to repair? Anyone experience this problem before?

I bought a 85 300zx from a friend for 300. It would crank but not start. I checked the ecu for codes following the steps. After I pulled the codes I go to try and start it again and as soon as I turn the key to crank everything shuts off. I disconnect the battery for about 30sec. then go in to try again. I noticed the security light is blinking, I turn the key to accesories and everything seems normal, then I turn the key to start the car and everything shuts off and will not come back on unless I disconnect the battery... What's going on?

Well, figured out one of the u-joints on the driveshaft has some trouble spinning freely. Could this cause the grinding noise??

Alright, took the driveshaft off. Some oil came out from where the driveshaft and differential connect, not sure if this is normal... Then I noticed the "gear" where the driveshaft connects to the transmission has a bit of play. Also sounds like something is broken inside the "tailshaft" of the transmission. It's a th350. I'm thinking I need a rebuild or swap, right? That loose "gear" in the tailshaft of the transmission seems to be causing the grinding noise. Any one experienced this before?

Lol! Trust me, I've been thinking of just biting the proverbial bullet, but it isn't whiny, it's more like grindy..

It's a metal sound. Sounds like it comes from the passenger rear wheel side. The diff "looked" good when I got it. I used 75-90 oil. Not sure how many miles. The half-shafts have no play to them. I give them a good tug and they feel solid. I went to "tug" the driveshaft and noticed a bit of play. Is that normal? I was thinking that it may be a wheel bearing as well, seeing that the grinding noise only happens when I have let go of the throttle and am coasting. Any ideas?

Just finished swapping a r180 with 4.11 in my 71 240z. Took it out for a test drive. It was running smooth until I took my foot off the throttle and let it coast. As soon as I let my foot off I hear this strange noise that sounds like it's coming from the right rear wheel. This sound only happens when I let off the throttle and let it coast. Everything looks ok. I'm not sure what the problem could be... Any ideas?