Lockjaw

That part is 440 bucks, not including shipping. I sent them an email asking for a quote to ship here, I am going to have to have on of those, just to be 'one up" on you guys.

Aaaawwww...dems fightin words Well you know I could not resist. I mean you would not believe how many people I see down here with a V8 Z that won't fall out of a tree. Plus it is funny to see someones reaction at the track, when they look under the hood, and don't see a V8. Of couse, they usually know something is up when I heat the tires anyway.

You guys act like 400 WHP is easy to come by, and well its not. Jeff made over 400 to the wheels, but he has a stroker, and headwork, including a camshaft. I made only 307 to the wheels with a good sized hybrid, but had other issue's. Most of the 1/4 mile calculators show me now making 360 whp or so, based upon my known vehicle weight and ET, but I haven't dyno'd it to know. Not trying to rain on your parade, but you need a good turbo, good fuel management, and very good tuning to get there, especially on pump. Jeff was using "some" race fuel if I believe. So was I. Spend some money, port the exhaust manifold, 60mm tb, a mild cam, headwork, and good efi and turbo, and you should be able to get there.

I have a BW, and supposedly, you can send it to G force technology and they can fix it up. James has the stuff needed to adapt a GM OD auto in there, if you need it. JeffP just put a tremec in his. Probably the easiest thing to do is get G force to do the BW 5 speed.

You should have told him us "turbo 6" guys routinely whip the V8 guys.

I think that is primarily for turning on the electric fan.

You may not like the .82 turbine housing, other then that is sounds like an H trim to me.

Oh yeah I almost forgot. Right after I finished college, I managed to save enough money to "rebuild" a shortblock. Did it all myself. Man it was a tight one too. Made it about 400 miles and I started to lose oil pressure, so I drove it from Bham to Opelika, to get it down to my friends shop. Lost oil pressure on the way down, drove it for 50 miles with no oil pressure (gotta love mobil 1). Guess what it was? The paint on the inside of the oil pan from the factory had flaked off, clogged my pick up to the oil pump. Had to re-rebuild the engine. And you would not believe the set-backs I had on my ZX, don't even get me started. Believe me, I know it sucks and its frustrating. But perservere. Don't let it whip you. It will bug you forever. Get a good headgasket, and have a good machinst check the head.

Thats a little wide for a cast piston, a forged would probably be ok in there. Of course if I was going to buy a forged pistion, I would bore it out and pick up displacement, it doesn't matter what the bore size is, the piston will still cost the same.

The answer is no. Early 280Z engines had dished pistons. Measure the ring lands, if it is 2mm wide, its a Z piston, 1.5 its a turbo one.

You can go 2mm over or .080 in.

Check with Rebello racing.

Alot of the time a boost gauge is off because someone "tweeks" it by running a little to much boost. I went to a VDO 30 psi one, and it doesn't pick up until 2 psi. Mainly I just want it in there to tell me where I ping on pump gas, on race gas, I don't have to worry.

What headgasket did you use? I blew mine a while back, actually did the real damage a while ago, when I hit about 24 psi on the interstate showing a little Honda boy what big boys can do. HAHA. I would use a stock turbo one, or an HKS one. Get the HKS from Courtesy and be done with it. Seriously, its not a big deal. Make sure whoever does your machine work is a reputable shop. You get crappy work, well, you know what happens. Also I have been down your road, have had to swap harnesses, AFM's, crap on top of the intake, heads, intakes, turbo's to get straight. You will never get the giggle factor out of a NA engine that you will get out of the turbo. Nothing makes me giggle more then passing the crap out of some ricer while hazing the tires in SECOND gear. Seeing the look on their face is better then any mastercard moment. Trust me. I have to replace mine too.

He didn't say how long it would make it, HAHA. Schymedee, glad you got yours situated.

So I guess I could use the stock boost gauge then, as long as I tested it. I mean I don't need to know if its at 20 psi or 7, as long as its not pinging, right? Nope that VDO one is staying in there. You guys crack me up, you will spend more time trying to figure out how "OFF" the stock tach is. That cracks me up.

I always bend those damn things anyway. RTV that baby.

stock sucks, and Sleeper is right. Removing a turbo in the car is a PITA, unless you have the intake off.

And its fun to plumb. Don't go turbonetics.

Geez Jeff. I hope the head stays on.

What about just getting a "good" tach?

Why don't you hunt around and get a 300ZXT harness, ecu, dizzy, MAF and injectors and wire that up? It would not be to expensive, probably about what your AFPR costs. There are people on the board who can guide you thru the process. You will spend more time, effort, and money fooling around trying to bandaide this thing, and you would just be better off to save a little money, and spend it wisely. It always costs more to "redo" something. Do it right the first time, you will be glad you did.

I have a stage V turbine, its a nice wheel, and the hit is softer then a stage 3. There is some merit to what Scottie said, I could break my tires loose easily in first and second with the stage 3, yet with the stage 5, it doesn't hit so hard, and hence, less tire spin. I will say one thing. DO NOT BUY A CHEAP TURBO!!!! Its not a good deal if you have to take it right back off, and you need to have some pretty specific things done to yours, since you will go for more power later, trust me. Spend the money and buy a good well built turbo. Forced Performance will also build you one, and well, they make some hellacious DSM turbo's built to run high boost, and you need the dependability, if you ask me. Just my 2 cents. I have the same intercooler you got I think, its a nice piece. Flows well too.

I just wait until I hit the limiter and shift.

The SDS comes with one, as do most standalones, you just have to add some connectors to them. I was looking at the SDS, interesting stuff. Maybe worth exploring. You would like Z31, it is light years better, and so is the JWT. The difference in just plain old drivability alone makes it worth the swap. That is what I noticed right off the bat. Anytime you get rid of that stinking door in the AFM, its a good thing. Imagine your exhaust having to go out that. Same concept.