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No idea.. I haven't driven the car yet. I am just finishing the project. Original booster was shot so I got one from a junkyard but I haven't tested it yet. Aren't 240z boosters only smaller in diameter but are the same height?

Thank you everyone for your input. I'm not very familiar with braking system. I installed all new hard lines, they are larger in diameter than stock. I think I'll stick with stock brakes for now.. maybe just a rear disc conversion. Also after reinstalling my brake booster I noticed that I it's touching my custom downpipe. Are there any smaller booster available for out cars or would it be easier to just bend the downpipe slightly?

Wouldn't wide wheels help shorten braking distance? Also wouldn't wider rear tires help offset brake bias further back? Besides larger caliper should help with brake fade. Maybe for now I'll just do rear disc conversion and leave stock front calipers. Maybe i'll just get drilled front rotors to help with cooling. Right now I should be close to 220hp at the crank. Once I get bigger injectors and ECU I'm planning to get to at least 300, so I would want to have bigger brakes at that point.

Thanks, I am leaning more towards 280zx rear brakes as well. 12+8 will definitely offset bias towards the front and I don't know of any good ways to correct it. Maybe if I run wider wheels in the back? I don't really plan on racing the car too much, maybe a track day every 2-3 months. At least for now.

Thanks for the info Miles. I am on a budget so I am not looking for a high performance brake setup. Just something a bit better than stock. I am currently working on my suspension, tokico springs and struts and poly bushings. So i wanted to finish my brakes while I'm at it.

I am trying to decide between Maxima calipers and z31 rotors or a 280zx rear setup. I am planning to run s12+8 brakes with drilled rotors in the front. Which setup would be cheaper and easier to do? How would each conversion affect brake bias?

I decided to use an empty Q45 fuse box to hold my relays and fusible links. Fuse and relay holders can be unclipped and removed. I only needed a relay holder and 2 fusible link holders.

Since stock crossover pipe was right next to stock 280z brake lines I had to reroute them. Bought a roll of brake line and rerouted all of the brake lines in the engine bay, including clutch line. Put the brake booster and downpipe back on only to realize that downpipe is touching the brake booster... I guess the brake booster I got at the junkyard is either slightly larger or shaped differently than the stock brake booster.

Close up pictures of my downpipe and modified turbo relocation pipe: Also got this new Direct NOS injection setup

Thanks! I guess I'll try it and see if it works or not

Does anyone know the ohm ranges of z31 and 280z temperature gauge sensors? Trying to figure out if I can use z31 sensor with 280z gauge.

Well it's been a while. I couldn't work on my z for over a month but now I'm finally back at it. No major updates, just started to organize and clean up engine bay. Tested WG actuator, which is a stock z31 actuator modified to fit, for some reason it starts to open at 10psi and fully opens at 14. I guess the spring was damaged by heat when we welded the rod.

Test fitted a new radiator:

Just checked, they want $60 for a new one.

Does anyone know if I have to use original z31 turbo fpr or would any vg30 fpr work? Or are there any other options for a junkyard FPR?