rickyellow zee
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Posts posted by rickyellow zee
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I came across this "black box" fuel controll unit while doing research on bosch L Jetronic AFM's the other day. My guess is it alters the output voltage coming from the sweeper arm in the AFM and tricks the ECU in thinking theres more or less fuel. Not sure but it looks just like a potentiometer and the installation calls for splicing into only one wire. It seems to do a good job in the vid of leaning out the guys air fuel mixture in the upper rpms. Now it was my understanding that the ECU dumps a set amount of fuel past 3500 rpm and cannot be adjusted. Any ideas how this box might work? I may try and splice into my AFM return signal wire and add a pot to see if I can alter the air fuel in the upper rpms. Your thoughts on how this product works??
Thanks
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Its a 5 speed and I just did the clutch last year. Injectors were serviced last year as well. Im going to have it run on the dyno soon with a wideband hooked up and see what I get...
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Thank you first off. Its a 5 speed..... Like I said Im new to the L series. It could be that everything is fine, Maybe, I dont really know. lol. My other turbo car does run leaner and no black smoke when I get on it but thats another car all together that has been fine tuned over years. In the future I plan on going megasquirt but thats after I reach the current ECU, injector and turbos limits. I would like to see what the current setup is capable of first when running properly. It just seems odd that when a sensor is unplugged it acts like nothing has happened. Ive read other posts regarding the CHTS and when it gets unplugged the idle usually goes to shit. Mine does not. Dunno man.
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Next up I want to try another AFM and see if that helps.
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More tests... I get continuity when I plug my multimeter into the CHTS plugs ground and the other end to the engine harness ground. This tells me that the ground is good. I used the ohm meter and I get 0 which is excellent. Its going from the CHTS plug through the ECU, out the harness to the grounds that attach to the engine. Everything seems good there. Took the casing off the ECU and tested the CHTS at the pins inside and I get the readings that are on the graph in the FSM. The info is getting to the ECU thats for sure. I have to rule out the CHTS as an issue at this point. Or no?
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m not using the narrow band to tune my car. lol. Just so you know Ive been driving turbo charged cars for over 20 years now and I get it, have had my other car (CRX) tuned multiple times. I know what im talking about for the most part. Cool? No punk kid here. Im a guy well into his 40's. lol.
Now my narrow gauge has served me well in the past. I know its no replacement for a wide band and it cannot be trusted for tuning purposes but it does give me some sort of idea of where my air fuel is at. Its not fully pegged to the right indicating full rich so I have an idea where my tune is at. Also I never said I wanted to be stoich for WOT. I get it again!!! A little richness is a goood thing. Lowers temps etc. Safety!! YES!!
My CRX has been boosted for over a decade making 235 to the wheels on a 1.6 D series. This motor made 110hp at the most stock. This is cause I know what Im doing. Know when to have it tuned when I increase boost., add a mod ETC. Know how to read my various gauges.
Datsuns and the L series are relatively new to me and I appreciate the help that you guys offer. Thanks for that... Thats why Im here. Ive had quite a few rude smart ass answers here but you get that on forums. har har.
Now I have no numbers numbers numbers to give yall regarding mileage. The car is a weekend cruiser and I top up the tank when its low. Cant tell you how many MPG.
Dont know where to go from here....more tests. Yay!
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Full rich on a narrow band gauge can mean anything from 10.3-14.5 AFR. The tail end of the voltage is all compressed. You should not be using a narrow band AFR gauge to tune your car. It is not in the right ball park you are using stadium lengths to try and measure yard increments.
You should not be aiming for stoich at WOT. That is really really a bad idea.
Please read up on AFR and narrow vs wide band. Look up charts and see why it is a bad idea.
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The car is stock except for a muffler and boost is at 11 lbs.I know its not the most accurate gauge but it gets you in the ballpark. Right now when I go WOT it goes almost full rich. The car is fine at partial throttle with the gauge reading Stoichiometric. If I could only lean out WOT and leave idle and partial throttle alone. I know you can adjust the AFM but that leans out the whole curve. Not so good.
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The fpr I tested a while back. Don't remember the numbers but I do remember it was in spec. The vacuum hose is new. I had replaced the exhaust/intake gasket recently and replaced all vaccum lines, all injector plugs and cleaned up any wiring on the injector side that needed TLC. Just trying to get this ol girl healthy. Still dont know why the CHTS makes no difference if its plugged in or not. That HAS to mean something. Thanks
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What to test next?
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The resistance numbers matched the chart when tested at the ecu and sensor so I guess that rules out the wiring. .03 ohms at 80C.
1983 ECCS and yes I was testing the right pins(23 26). I did not test with the CHTS disconnected.
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I may open the ecu and test from inside? Not sure if this can be done.
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Did just that.
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Car is 78 280Z with 83 L28ET. The car starts no problem and runs fine but under WOT its rich according to my narrow band air fuel gauge and the black poofs of smoke when I get on it hard. That and poor gas mileage. I figure its the CHTS so I did the tests as per the FSM and everything checks out. I recently cleaned up the CHTS wiring as it was old and needed attention.
So when the engine is cold I unplugged the CHTS plug and no difference at all in operation. I then jumped the CHTS plug with a paperclip and still no change. TonyD once said that doing this should trick the ECM into thinking that the car is cold and go rich. Nothing...
I took it for a rip to heat it up and checked to see if the ECU's LED was blinking indicating the 02 sensor is working. I then unplugged the CHTS when warmed up and still no change at all in the idle. I read that when the CHTS is unplugged the car should bog out due to too much fuel. Mine does not. It appears that the CHTS and ECM are not communicating. At least that's what I think. Any input or other tests I could try to correct the rich condition at WOT. Thanks
Rick
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Looks good. In better shape than mine was.
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I plan on rewiring my CHTS with new wires cause the old wires are crusty. Is it okay to wire the ground wire directly to the chassis instead of back to the ECM? I also plan on rewiring the AFM ground as well to the same location.Thanks.
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Im looking to get a set of SSR Mk2's for my 78 280z. I currently run coilovers and have stock fenders. I plan on shopping on Yahoo japan as they seem to have the most selection. I have searched for what offset to get but things are still unclear. Spacer this rolling that etc...not interested in masaging the car to make rims fit at all. I just need to know what size offset will clear without the use of spacers and rolling of fenders. Im sure I can fit a 7" wide rim zero offest under the stock fenders but how about 8" wide. Will the offset be different with wider wheels? Will it require rolling and other mods? Thanks very much for your time.
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1987 nissan maxima 15".
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I plan on slotting the uprights in the off season unless the tires wears out quickly. Thanks for the suggestions! BTW this is the method I used to check my rear toe. I just used the 280z track specs instead. I hope its correct. Thanks
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If they are just loud then a rebuild should do. Mine were clacking so I rebuilt them. No need to buy in my case. Not sure of the shape of yours.
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After lowering my 280z I did an alignment with the string method and it appears that my rear toe is out of wack. The rear left wheel is toed out 2mm and the rear right is toed in 2 mm. I replaced all bushings with polyeurathane. I plan on adjusting the toe with the adjustable derlin bushings sold at motorsports in the future. Ive heard of people with seriously bad settings of 3/4"in or out. Mine doesnt seem that bad or is it? How bad is my cars settings? Thanks
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Binding in the rotation, compression is fine. I fixed the issue by using the stock insulator/bearing and a thrust needle bearing under the nut. everything moves freely now. I had to drill the strut mount insulator to accommodate the larger threaded shaft of the coilover, feed it through the isolator, add the thrust needle bearing, then the nut with the long shaft through the needle bearing and isolator. The way I originally had it the coilover shaft was tightened to the isolator so when I turned the steering wheel the coilover body turned on the piston. Now the piston and strut body turn as one.
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Im installing inverted coilovers on my 280z and I was going to use the stock strut mount insulators with the stock bearing but am having problems with the bearing binding so instead I plan on using camber plates. This is for the front suspension. The rear is done with the stock strut mount insulators and I had no issues there. My question is does the pillow ball replace the function of the bearing in the stock insulator? Is this what is used for steering instead of the bearing that fit in the insulator? Im prettty sure it does but just want to make sure. The coilovers are upgarage which are rebranded JIC's or so I've read. Thanks.
HPSI black box for L Jetronic
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
The ol CHTS trick eh? I thought it might have been something different like controlling the AFM signal wire. That could work as well..... The thing with altering the CHTS wire is that the ECU only reads the CHTS in certain conditions. At around 3500rpm its no longer used, goes by the ECU map. How was he controlling fuel past that?