Guycali

Anyone know if Subaru has smaller turning circle radius than Mustang or Miata rack?

I acutally sent that email to PayPal thought it was a spoof mail. PayPal replied saying the class action is legitimate. Yes, I'm part of the class action member. Wonder how much we'll get, probably $2... LOL. -Guycali

Has anyone driven a car with racing pedal setup like Tilton or Wilwood? Does it feel different than the normal vacuum-assisted braking? Does it require more pedal effort or distance? Can they be set up with ABS? I've only see brake/clutch pedal sets. How 'bout gas pedal? Use the stock one? That'd look kinda awkward, wouldn't it? Where can I look for racing gas pedal to go with brake/clutch pedal set? -guycali

I've pm'ed the seller about 2 5/8" gauges and will let you know. -Guycali

I want to give this to a broader audience than if I were to post it in the Classified section. Apologies if it is inappropriate. There's a groupbuy on Autometer gauges on eclipseforums.org ending 4/29. http://www.eclipseforums.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=158706 -Guycali

Can I see them side pipe pics too? Thanks! guycali@yahoo.com

I have a 4.08 R200 vlsd out of a 90+ z32 na for sale. I got it for $300 so it'll be that price too. I'm in the east bay so you can pick it up easily. Thanks. -Wilbur

Women should form a "Hunting for Daffy" game and give them a chance to relieve their aggressions toward men. Have naked men running around for female hunters. That'd be justice!

Hehe. I sent the seller couple email regarding some questions and he never replied back. How could someone selling a motor swap not answering or checking his email daily? Looks suspicious to me so I didn't bother to bid despite the low low price. Hope someone doesn't get a lemon. -Guycali

Hi Kyle, Can you explain what you mean by slow to reset after shifting and being sluggish. Although I've just recently replaced the entire clutch assembly on my Z but I'm still pretty new to driving a stick. If you are having trouble shifting into gear, try unhooking the clutch slave cylinder's return spring on the tranny. If you can shift pretty well with the spring unhooked, then you're simply losing engagement due the enlarged pin hole, where the clutch master cylinder and clutch pedal hook together. You'll have to take the pedal to a shop to have it weld up the hole and redrill to 8mm or 5/16" depending on which size of clevis pin you can find. If that's not the case, bleed the clutch system if you haven't done so. If that doesn't work, guess you'll have to replace the clutch/pressure plate. It took me 4 weekends to complete the clutch repair myself as I had never done it before, bleeding the clutch and brake systems, and replaced brake pads/shoes. I used four jack stands and a floor jack with tranny adapter. You can buy the entire clutch kit for about $100 from Kragen, AutoZone, or Pepboys (typically on special order). I'm afraid I won't have time to help you replace the clutch. Nevertheless, I'll try to answer any questions you may have. A service manual is a must if you want to do it yourself. Factory and Clymer ones are the best. Regards, Wilbur

This may be a dumb question but I've never driven a RHD car and am getting ready to acquire a RB26 conversion kit. Is it the same shift pattern as LHD tranny? 1 3 5 |/|/ 2 4 or 5 3 1 || 4 2 Thanks, Guycali

Sent you a pm Akila. -Guycali

Try http://www.classiczcars.com to sell your stock parts. More people are into restoring Z's back to stock condition there. -Guycali

Thanks for the advice. I have a '72 4spd and it's all stock. I've replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing. I have temporarily fixed it by disconnecting the return spring on the slave cylinder. It appears that with the return spring connected, the pushrod of the slave cylinder doesn't have enough force to overcome the tension in the spring to deliver proper disengagement distance to the clutch. The car shifts pretty well in all gears with the return spring removed. Good to know it's not the synchros. *whew* Of course, this isn't a long term solution. Either the slave or master cylinder isn't working properly because I've bled the clutch over and over again. Or it could be both cylinders. I guess my solution is to replace the slave cylinder then the master to really fix the problem. The return spring is there for a reason. Having it disconnected doesn't sit well with me. -Wilbur

Hi all, Hope you can give me some insights. I've just replaced the clutch and bled the system, drained and refilled the tranny oil, and bled the brake system. I can move the shifter in all gears okay with engine off. However, when the engine is running, I can't shift into any gears, no matter how hard I tried. I have attempted to decrease the clutch/shift fork gap but all that does is firm up the pedal travel and the problem remains. With the engine off, I can shift into 1st gear, start the engine, slowly release the clutch pedal and the car will move forward. However, I just can't shift to any other gears while the engine is turning. I do hope the problem is not the synchros but simple clutch adjustment. I'd be most grateful if anyone close to me can help me get this puppy on the road! Regards, -Wilbur

I'd assume you want new rotors to go with the new pads right? Here's a quote from RaceShopper.com for the powerslot rear rotors if you're interested. Still trying to find other places that carry 84-89 300zx slotted rotors... Hi Wilbur, Thanks for the interest! 1984-1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo 32-2555 (Rear) - These are Solid Rotors - 11.4" diam. $145.37 /pair. For ordering, or for more information, you can reach me directly at: 800-733-8380. Best Regards, Edwin Robinson. http://www.RaceShopper.com 1-800-733-8380 Fo non-slotted rear rotors, I found prices ranging from $30-$42/ea based on the Nissan part number I used, 43206-02P01, although I'm not 100% sure it's the correct 11.4" diameter but is listed as the rear rotor for 84-86 300zxt. Just do a search on Yahoo for "nissan parts" and enter the part number. Gosh, powerslot rotors cost twice as much than non-slotted! Are they really worth the price tho for the rear brake? -Guycali

----------------------------------------------------------------- Special Prices on products for your 70-78 Nissan 240Z-280Z ----------------------------------------------------------------- Struts/shocks: Koni's are $520.80 (240Z & 260Z ONLY) Tokico's are $249.00 Tokico Illumina's (externally adjustable) $459.00 KYB cartridge inserts $147.00 Sets of 4 Tokico Illumina Suspension kit, $559.00 lowers 1" Tokico Suspension kit, $375.00 lowers 1" Suspension Techniques sway bar kit F&R - $229.00 Addco sway bars are $129.00 each Both of these come with urethane bushings. Ground Control Coil Over Kit- $399.00 includes Eibach ERS springs, no struts. 0 to 2.5" lowering Strut Brace -N/A Springs: Eibach Pro-kit $209.00 (1970-1973) lowers 1" Suspension Techniques $169.00 ( lowers 1") Energy Suspension complete urethane bushing kit- $189.00 Powerslot Rotors $69.95 each front , and no rears Carbon Metallic Brake Pads- $49.95 per axle.

Could be the release bearing? Just finished replacing the entire clutch system in my Z. The release bearing completely disintegrated and the ball bearings were sitting on the bottom of the clutch housing. You may need to open it up to know for sure what's wrong with yours. My $0.02, -Guycali

I know one... http://www.miata.net

Thanks for all the inputs! Really appreciated. Since I'll be purchasing a welder in the near future, I'd like to make sure I get one that can do everything. Good TIG welders can do arc welding as well. If I can get by with having just one machine instead of two or three, the money saved can easily go into fixing up the Z. I'm not sure about this but I overheard my instructor talking to another student about MIG welding on parts that will take on lots of vibration. He said MIG welds won't do well on vibrational parts and could crack over period of time. If that's true, I guess no MIG welding on shock towers(strut bars or camber plates), coilover strut conversion, and exhaust piping? Argh! The more I get into car restoration, the more headache and deeper pocket I get. So the ideal all purpose one machine welder would be the TIG? -Wilbur

Hi guys, Taking MIG welding this semester and was talking to my welding instructor today about capability of MIG welding. I informed him that I want do MIG on auto body, rotisserie, and custom roll cage. He told me MIG won't be strong enough for any structural support, i.e. rotisserie. He suggested to use Arc welding instead. So for those who had build their own rotisseries, which welding technique did you use? Is MIG good enough for building a roll cage? Can TIG be used on rotisserie and roll cage? Thanks -Guycali

AE as Aerospace Engineering? How's the job market for it now? I have a BS in AE but couldn't find a job after graduation in '94-'95. That was when the cold war ended. My senior projet was a Weather Rocket that took temperature and pressure readings as it parachuted down while we used theodolites for tracking. Went back to school and changed my major with a MS in Computer Science. Now working as a QA in Documentum, Inc. Best of luck to you! -Guycali

If using a flow meter, open the valve fully and set the bottom of the ball bearing at the 15CFH mark so the top of the ball is at 20CFH. That should be sufficient for most type of welding. Any higher CFH is wasteful. HTH, -Guycali

Currently taking welding classes at local JC. Here are few pointers if you haven't already practicing them... 1. Use a wire brush and clean all the edges of both the base metal and the patch panel well. 2. Use a shorter stick-out, no more than 1/2" from the nozzle. 3. Use a shorter arc length if you're experiencing lots of splatter. 4. If your bead is narrow and tall, the traveling speed is too fast. 5. If your bead is wide and shallow, the voltage is too high. 6. Snip the wire every time before starting a weld. 7. 0.023" wire is recommended for thin sheet metal welding. 8. Set gas flow rate @ 15 - 20CFH. 9. Make sure the gun nozzle and wire feed collate are free of slags. 10. Make sure the ground connection has good contact with the work table or work piece. HTH, -Wilbur

Has anyone used this friction system to repair dents? It seems like a plausible idea and it's been around for 13yrs. I wonder how much they charge for the set... Sunchaser Tools -Guycali