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miky360

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Posts posted by miky360

  1. The OP CLEARLY stated that he only wants to spend about $250 per wheel. He knows very well he's not getting top shit wheels. He wants wheels at a certain size and for that price range. 

     

    If you want to talk about Rota vs Rays then please start another thread. And btw, i've seen TE37's equally as damaged as any other Rota out there. Unless you're doing a serious time attack or something like a rally then you should be fine with XXR's or Rotas. But with that kind of budget, he obviously isn't. 

     

    Fun fact: Some XXR's are lighter than what Volk or Ray's have to offer.

  2. Since no one is helping the guy out directly but rather steering him into the direction you would go I thought I'd give you a small wheel selection. Replicas of course since your budget is low. Don't expect these to be Volk strong or light.

     

    Custom wheels? You need to get out more.

     

    Anyway,

     

    XXR 531

    Rota Shakotan

    Diamond Racing Wheels

    Varstoen also has a wide selection.

     

    There's plenty of more wheels out there. That's all I can remember off top my head while laying down on my iPad lol

  3. With an RB swap I would go with F:17x9 0 R:17x10 -15

    Tires, I'd still stick with the R888s (Best bang for your buck) at 235 in the rear and 205 in the front.

     

    IMG_20130806_191905.jpg

     

    That's a 235 R888 on a 10. That's 280zcar's setup btw. Absolutely love it :D

     

    HaaJeHaa, with our cars being 40 years old im sure most peoples setup vary differently from the next guys with all the wear&tear LOL but hey, that's just how things go :)

  4. This guy is running 15x10 -29 with plenty of room

    IMG_20130805_222056.jpg

     

    -29mm + 38mm = 9mm. and that would sit on the struts. Of course you need to give it some space for tires but if he plans to go stanced and do a badass stretch then thats pretty ballsy to do go with a positive offset. I feel like Zero is a safe bet for him.

     

    Rodriquezf0913, what kind of look or function are you going for? do you want flares or no flares?

  5. I did not read the previous posts because I'm in class but I will try to chime in my opinion lol

     

    Rear: the offset you have is way too high. You will hit your struts. Highest you can run on a x10 safetly is 0. Keyword is safetly lol

     

    No matter what offset you're running you're going to have to run ZG flares with x10 wheels if you don't want to poke out of your fender.

     

    Fronts: you can get away with 15mm spacers and MAYBE some neg camber

     

    Tires on the x10 Im about to run R888 235/50

    On your fronts I would run 195/50 R888s

  6. Hey 280zex, do you have any more pictures? That looks like a great idea! My center console is all cracked and such and I'm not really down to spend 200 on cheap plastic. Custom carpet I'm guessing?

  7. not bad. but i think you should of just went with regular auto paint, not much more effort imo.

    Where do you get your car painted? Lol

     

    There is almost no prep involved in plasti-diping cars, BARELY any masking and I doubt you can find a matte job (in this case) for less than 500.

    Not a fan of the blue but nice job on the dip! I find plasti-dip is a really great product and definitely not as bad as some people make it sound. As long as it was applied correctly with the right amount of coats then hell you got a matte job for less than 1/8 of the price.

  8. I haven't read anything above me but I will tell you what I did after I welded in my new floors. POR15 with no prep lol seriously though. Brushed off any loose dirt and just brushed onto to straight bare metal. As for the driver side which is the same situation as you. I simply cleaned off the grease, let it dry, Prep & Ready (it's a POR15 branded solvent), let that dry, brushed off any loose dust and then brushed POR15 literally right over the rust with no fucks given lol

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