Nismo280zEd
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Posts posted by Nismo280zEd
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Chris,
Pay close attention to the inside of the cowl... very problematic area on Z's. I've had to address rust in there several times.
Also you will find a fiberglass patch around the driver rocker panel under the side skirt. I remember helping my dad with that when I was first learning how to glass.
Looking good buddy... keep it up!
Cheers.
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Got around to pulling the steering column and pedal box.
Found the damage that a leaky master brake cylinder did years ago.
Overall nothing seems too bad. Just need to take my time and blast it and see whats left. Side note, if anyone knows what year that brake booster is from please give me a heads up. I am assuming its from a Turbo model that the previous owner changed.
I know that it is not a Z, but I will show it to show what type of work I do. This is my 56 Ford Fairlane, I restored this between 2000 to 2001. I did everything at home including paint, interior, and metal work.
Excuse the dust and dirty rims, have not had the time to wash it this winter.
Pretty sure I changed the booster to an 83' ZX. Also... the steering column damage is related to the fire, not hydraulic leak.
Cheers.
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Glad your enjoying working on her. She's finally getting some needed TLC that I just didn't have time for. Kinda fun watching my project get transformed into somebody elses project.... the circle continues....
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Project Phoenix bro? lol aight... your toy now.
Here is a link to a previous thread she had.
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95222-she-lives/page__p__895694__fromsearch__1#entry895694
Have fun with it man, can't wait to see it sideways
-Ed
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looks like i started probing through the forms again just in time! Now I don't have to use my external trigger that was mounted to the A/C pulley
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I have not made any progress on mine. I still have to finish welding in the subframe from the 240sx before I even worry about wiring the HVAC. Haven't even touched the wiring on the motor in almost 2 years.
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According to the compressor maps I found the CFM for a standard T3 60-trim is ~428.
A 50-trim is ~357 and a super 60 is ~464.
Here is the site where I found the maps:
I'm not 100% sure but I believe the stock T3 was equivalent to the 50-trim so you should gain about 100cfm.
What type of power band are you looking for?
The T28 exhaust housing might be a bit small if you want a high revving motor, you might be happier with a T3/T4 hybrid of some sort.
Well i'm looking at running it on an N/A build with low boost. Quick response, more torque where it's useable. Not looking for a dyno queen, just alot of midrange torque... was going to drift this car a little.
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I'm finally getting around to building my turbo Z motor. I've had a T28 ball bearing turbo in storage I planned on using for this build. The CFM is rated about 450 max. T28 .60A/R Having a bit of trouble finding the max CFM for the stock T3 turbo that came with the turbo motors. Just wanted to know how much this turbo is going to outflow the stock one to decide if I should keep it or go with something else before I start welding up the header.
-Ed
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here are some fabrication shots
cutting out the rear seat rest only to find more hidden rust (what a surprise in a Z!) then cutting floor board for lower mounts
Not the prettiest bead but it's solid. I was really proud of how well I fit this tube to the sheet metal.
mocking up the mount, still fitting the down tubes.
Now there are two holes...
downtubes fitted and welded and 3/16" plate being welded.
Plate tacked in place, trying to finalize where the mount needs to be welded to the plate.
Make shift mount welded
another photo of welded mount, hard to get in there with welding helmet on.
I'm proud of it, was my first time welding something structural I guess you could say.
I'll accept criticism, but please be kind.
-Ed
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So I got kind of caught up in life and the Z was left neglected. She's been on stands for 3 years or longer when I started this crazy project. I finally did it though, S14 subframe into a 280z 2+2. Wider stance, disk brakes, CV upgrade, better suspension, etc.
Here she is!
Still alot of work to do but she is finally sitting on the ground again!
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I was always told this was a sign of a healthy motor when it pops on decel with an open exhaust. However the Z has some LOUD pops on decel, great info!
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Thanks!
As for the lower control arm, the stock unit is strong, lightweight, and I have never seen one fail. The only disadvantage I can see is the lack of adjustable toe, which to me is minor.
Mongo
Well true, but the stock design is also limiting to axle strength do to hub size, and the diff mount and lower control arms are subject to flexing under load.
Either way man, that was a huge engineering project you tackled!! Kudos to you for making it bolt in even!!!
-Ed
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That is truely impressive work and fabrication but I think I'm misunderstanding the purpose.
You went through all that trouble just to use old school factory Z lower control arms?
I'm replacing my rear setup as well and have been planing out cantilever suspension setup, but the whole purpose for mine is to have the car lower to the ground but still have correct suspension geometry and better travel.
Either way an amazing fabrication project!
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Uhhh, if you're going to go through the trouble of moving everything under the car back 1", moving the strut towers back 1" wouldn't be that difficult.
Actually I have an S14 subframe mocked up in my 280z with the wheels centered. I used 240 struts, with 280z springs and top hats and mounted the strust in the oem location. With the wheels centered, the spring does not hit the side. Just FYI
Also widens the rear track nicely about
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There is a proper weld type for the area and metal needing to be welded. If the panel was spot welded from the factory replace the spot weld with a plug weld. Try to replicate the spacing and size of the original spot weld. Replacing a spot weld with an edge weld can result in fatigue cracking around the weld as this moves the load point of the weld away from where it was engineered to be . Just like in painting preparation is key to a good weld. Clean unrusted metal and tight fitting pieces go along way to ensuring a good weld. Learn to read your welds to ensure you are getting proper weld pentration. Practice welds on similar pieces of scrap metal are sometimes necessary to make sure you have the correct set up on your welder. While Z cars dont use any HSS or UHS steel , its important to understand how loads move through the structure and how weld type and placement affect the movement of these loads.
Since the availability of low cost MIG welders there are many new people trying their hand at welding. There is more to welding than just purchasing a machine.
The old addage is " If you dont weld well , weld often. "
I guess I don't understand your reasoning here.
Lets say you have a panel with 10 spot welds every 4 or 5 inches. You want to stitch weld it to increase rigidity. So you put in 20 1" welds on the panel.
Now your panels has 10 spot welds and 20 1" long beads. This increases load transfer area through the panel, while I see you point of it tranfering loads more towards the edge of the panel where the spots weld where recessed back from the edge. Still you have more area to transfer the stresses so wouldn't this equate into less stress per weld than originally?
Just curious.
-Ed
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I read through you post but I can't find where you mention what you are using?
I use a Lincoln MIG it has 4 amperage settings. Often I find working on the Z, I have to jump up to the next amperage setting and change my wire speed to accomodate because of the Metal on the Z. I guess the older metal absorbs oils and other media from the air and paint, etc. On brand new clean metal I don't need as much amperage but the old metal on the Z, even cleaned properly still can prove tricky.
Also check your wire. The wrong wire will make your life hell.
I wasted 2 days trying to weld up an exhaust on my girls 350z till I realized I had the polarity reversed on my welder for flux core. People make dumb mistakes and we get so focused we sometimes forget to check the obvious.
Good luck, I'm still learning tricks myself.
-Ed
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this looks very doable from the poster with the 245/40's on the 17's. Throw on some 225/40 and you'll probably have enough stretch, introduce a little neg camber in the rear and roll the lip/pull the fender a bit and it will look really nice and you can still have suspension travel.
My 240sx had 17x10.5 on the back and I would mount up 245/40's and 235's when I could find them. Piece of cake.
-Ed
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Have you tried going to an AC or hotrod shop? Even if the ends that fit your car are special you can cut the crimp sleeve off and reuse the inner part with a new sleeve and line. I would probably charge you about $50 to remake that line if you brought it in. Adding all kinds of adapters and fittings is just inviting more leaks IMO.
I figured most AC shops would just want me to replace the line. I wasn't aware you could put in new hose and "re-crimp", thanks for the advice. I'll have to make a few phone calls I guess.
The hose you replace it with... is it just hydraulic hose? -curious-
-Ed
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Ok so my Subaru has a leak on the high pressure hose where the actual hose meets the fitting (the crimps are leaking)
It's 153 dollars to replace this hose that is 2 feet long, if that. The connection to the compressor and condensor are NOT leaking, just where the rubber meets the metal connections.
So... being a college student and wanting my money to go as far as possible.... I started doing some research.
From what I'm finding, a/c hose is hydraulic hose? I know like a 500psi working pressure would be plenty for the a/c system on the car. If so... I was thinking of cutting off the metal crimps on the al tubing, using some swadgelok fittings to convert to a suitable thread NPT probably? Then I can just get 2' of hydraulic hose (cheap) and have two standard NPT fittings installed on the end and fix my hose right? So i'm also thinking of installing a pressure gauge on a T fitting if I go this route (maybe) just to monitor things.
At anyrate, can anybody confirm what kind of hose is compatible with R134a refrigerant? I saw a gates hose that was nylon lined, the hydraulic hose I was looking at is oil reistant and neoprene lined. http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/SAE_100R1AT_Hydraulic_Hose_p/r1-hose.htm
Would this idea work?
Thanks,
-Ed
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i posted before about this 4runner i've been bringing back. i wanted more than anything to just do the panel repair and be done...have it close enough that it didn't bug me. well now i have the fendes painted and that hard line at the foor makes the color difference obvious. i'm gonna end up blending into the door now but am wondering if this color difference will blend or if it's just gonna make a mess. this is a quick pic from my cell, you can see the fender is a little more yellow than the door. if blended will it be noticeable? is this close enough for blending?
I think your going to end up making a mess honestly. If you still have the paint you used on the fenders, I would try tinting it a little darker. Or tint the clear with a little black or dark grey. That is going to be a pain in the a$$ to blend the A pillar and if you have a good enough eye to spot the different colors right off the back you'll be able to notice. (others might not till you point it out, but being a painter myself that would drive me nuts)
GL man.
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Subscribed ! great find . I would check the earlier (93 and less) honda accords heater/ac unit if i reacall from the one i had they were pretty small in size but they were electric/mech controlled .
I'm actually installing a 94 maxima DCC in the Z. Actually, the entire system. Compressor, coil, fan, etc. I want to freeze in my Z, however it's the last project on my list to complete. Good luck with the DCC from a 240sx, I would recomend using one available in the states to make it easier to wire and get parts.
-Ed
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I am not aware of any electric a/c compressors designed for 12V systems. Everything I have ever seen has been for hybrid electric cars that operate at much higher voltages. I guess it doesn't matter how the compressor is driven since load will still make it to the motor either way, only this way it is redirected through your alternator.
Most boats, marine application run electric compressors. Check out west marine
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Well I'm more an EFI guy myself, never messed with a holley honestly. I had triple webers once but with those you just change the jet size. I guess the holley is kinda like lawn equipment as far as adjustment? A spring under the needle valve and you screw it in or out to adjust flow? Try taking the jet out and inspecting it for damage or debris, also check the hole it goes into. Maybe some casting flash or something got in it?
Either way, if you dump fuel in and it doesn't start only pops, sounds like your timing is off.
Fuel air and spark and it will fire.
When you checked your spark, did you put in a spare plug to check or actually use a plug that was installed in the motor?
-Ed
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I put an a/c system in one of my MGB's. I think I am a pretty clever guy, had a good vacuum pump and set of gauges, even brought in a commercial a/c engineer to assist but could still not get it right. Not until I took it to a professional auto a/c place and pull out my most useful tool (my check book) did it blow cold. I had nothing wrong in the design or construction of the system, the guy said it was just in how it was filled up (loose nut at the wheel). Instead of spending the $50 on a cheap set of gauges, now is probably the time to take it to someone who has done a few hundred and knows all the tricks. Good Luck
Honestly, if I wasn't a college student I would gladly drop it off and let somebody else deal with it.
Unfortunately I am, and I work full time to make ends meet. This combination allows me little spare funds and even less spare time.
I put a can in last summer and worked good enough, put another in this summer and it works better than last.
I was talking to an engineer my father works with who knows alot about HVAC. He suggested adding another coil, this is what Porsche did to improve the A/C in the weak system of the 911. It was also suggested to try an electric compressor. This would eliminate one variable from the complex system allowing the compressor to run at optimum efficiency at all times regardless of engine speed. My wallet just doesn't allow for either one at the current time though. It's a good learning process though as I'm swapping in a maxima a/c system into the Z, can never know too much!
-Ed
Project Phoenix
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
I'm curious where you pulled your measurement points to determine the "squareness" of the chassis.
Don't give up man, it'll be worth it in the long run. If nothing else... think about the valuable experience the Z is giving you...
-Cheers