LS1 Cobra

This one is the Edelbrock Victor Jr but it's almost identicle to the GMPP intake except it uses the stock port O rings. I prefered that to the gaskets used on the GMPP intake. I'm expecting it to make over 400HP at the rear wheels once the cam goes in. I've got a MS4 from Texas speed along with some dual springs, Ti retainers and molly push rods. At the same time it'll get a ported LS6 oil pump, a set of ARP rod bolts and an LS2 corvette sump I picked up. That should gain me nearly an inch of ground clearance over the Camaro sump on it now. The PVC runs off the LS6 valley plate. I re drilled where the barb comes out to better suit the manifold. The PCV valve is in line. The line off the rocker cover runs to the air cleaner as a filtered air source for the crank case. It pretty much duplicates the crank case ventilation of the stock motor. Cheers Michael

Hi Pop, Those smaller alternators are just the ticket. With your bracket painted your setup will look great. Your setup looks like it'll work fine. Many of the Cobra guys are running just an alternator and water pump and have done similar things. The only thing to watch for is that you have enough wrap around your crank pulley. These belts rely on surface area to transmit power through them without slipping. Since you are only running an alternator and water pump it'll probably be fine. I haven't got much more wrap myself. I think the stock LS1 alternator is about 120 Amps which is way overkill on a car without much in the way of electrical accessories. Might be good if you had a big stereo but I don't even have a cigarette lighter. I found my alternator at a Japanese import wrecker. They let me sort through a 44 gallon drum of miscelaneous alternators till I found one I liked. Funny you should mention a carburettored intake looking better... Have a look at the induction setup I'm running now. Cheers Michael

Pin drive wheels are a pretty straight forward setup. I'm using som adaptor hubs that bolt to the original flange where the wheel bolts to. The wheel nuts have an internal hex and a smooth outside and the act as the drive pins as well as holding the adaptor in place. You then need to get wheel centers machined to suit a pin drive hub. Many un drilled off the shelf wheel centers have enough material to allow them to be machined to suit a pin drive center. Quite a few manufacturers like BBS Team3 and others will do a pin drive wheel to your specs. Here's one of the rear hubs: Here's a front wheel with the 3 eared spinner in place. your Here's some Hex nuts for a change of look. Hope this gives you some ideas. Cheers Michael

Hi All, I just joined this forum as I was thinking about building an LS1 powered 260Z for my next project. Browsing through and I spotted a pic of my reverse rotation water pump setup. Well it seems to work well. I had the car finally running at a track day a couple of months back and I had no overheating problems. I probably will need an oil cooler at some point but that's another job. Here's a video of it running in stealth mode with the quiet underbody exhaust system. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WabIHz2NfA Unfortunately I don't have much footage from the track meet but someone took a video of the motorkahna on the 2nd day. It's a bit embaresing as I completely stuffed it up. I'm still learning to drive the car and get the suspension set up. I couldn't get any front end grip so had to just drive round quietly. Cheers Michael