Med Center Z

Seems that my I-phone 5 wont attach the video. I put it on you tube Chanel here is the link. I don't think the motor was at TDC when took the Oil Pump out and changed the Oil drive and gear.

Still having the same issue I think a leak down test is next. Here is a short video. I checked valve lash its fine. also if its relevant behind the crank pulley there is a small medal backing plate that is loose witch is concerning to me..

Hostory My z sat for 8 months in my garage. Installed 40mm webers H7 models (completely overhualed). Installed rx7 fuel pump (producing 4psi on gauge). Installed 81 280zx distributer. (Replace oil driver and gear) If relevant this is a 3.1 l28 with a V07 crank, Cam - 290/.505, 266/.490, F54/P90 Took spark plug on cylinder one out and set motor to TDC, checked to see if cylinder one is at the top of the block deck and it is. First two Cam lobs are upright on both sides and valves are closed. Motor tries to start but won't. I did a conpression test and I can't get conpression over 70 on any cylinder. I addvanced my timing to 50 degrees and the motor will idle. I'm stumped and frustrated...

Well I did a compression check and I have no compression above 70..... I don't think that's a good thing ?

How is this possible to not use a return fuel line ? How do the carburetors operate when the fuel pump is constantly fluffing the bowls with fuel wouldn't the carbs get to much fuel ? And it seems to me that running the return would benefit in reducing the temperatures of the fuel resulting in a better burn resulting in more HP/TQ Educate me....

No cold start on my n42 manifold it's shaved and has all egr equipment deleted. Oil change and plug change for sure !

I pulled my intercooler of today, I found that it was quite heavier then I remember. I Poured 1 gal of gas out of my intercooler. I have been having issues with my 3.0 stroker not getting spark, I would try and try to start it but I wouldn't fire up. I suspect that I Flooded the cylinder walls in the fuel backed up so much that it ran through the intake Plenum through the throttle body through the intercooler piping and down into the intercooler. I think I'm happy it did not start....

Wow t9 really messed up some spelling. Lets start over. I want a set of 44 or 45 mm triples. Seriouse buyer no junk no scams. I just buaght a set of weber 40 mm triples and want a bigger set for the future builds.

I want a set of 44-45 mm triples. I just bight a set of weber 40 mm triples. Seriouse buyer no joke no scams. PayPal is the way I pay and ever item needs to be insured.

I'm reading throughout sever LS forms that several people are lowering the PSI on the Walbro 255 and having no issues. They are using carb's and running 5-6 PSI all day on a regulator.

Thanks for the input.

I have a set of weber 40mm carbs that I'm using on my 3.0 l series. I currently have a walbro 255 inline fuel pump on my 240z running to a aromotive fuel regulator(with fuel pressure gauge). I have been reading that the first gen 79-83 rx7 fuel pump is a common swap while using carbs. I also found that the rx7 pump produces 3.7-4.7 psi. The question is can I regulate my walbro using my current regulator to let's say 5 psi give or take or will this damage the walbro 255 ? I hate to have to buy a new fuel pump all over again.

No thanks, still looking.

I'm I'n the market for a 1981 N/A distributer. Part must be in good condition and in working order. No scams.

Not interested in Stock carbs. Solex mikuni Webers 40MM or 44MM Please don't sell me any junk they need to be in good condition.

Thanks for the info maby my p90 head would be better

240z had 1.65" intake and 1.30" exhaust. 280z-zx-zxt got 1.74" intake and 1.38" exhaust. I think the E88 of 73-74 or 260z got larger exhaust valves. The early E88 head cobustion chambers is similar to the E31 with the hemisphereical quench area a little deeper then the earlier head. I've researched only.to find talk over the early E88 being preferd sighting that the its valves are a little less shrouded than the E31. Am I missing something that i need to take into consideration on choosing the right valves? I had felt after research an reading that bigger valves are always better? I plan to just use some parts to get it running later ill update items as I.feel. I'm a student an have bills so its a build in progress.

Yep head bolt was stuck on Cyl 2, pulled safly. I'm looking at swapping in - L28 overhauled, bored .040 over, new turbo own dished pistons, rings, balanced, polished rods, oem bolts. Early HE88, milled .010, felpro head Gasket, 280z stainless valves, new guides an seals. Ngk plugs/wires, 71 dizzy.

I wonder if the carbs are rich an it washed out the rings? has flat top pistons an this is a early E88 Hemisphereical quench area.

Just pulled manifolds, cly 2 runner is full of water, rust, and junk. pulling head.

I went to snug the harmonic balancer, it was lose. took me 4 turns to snug it up again. once it was snug and torqued, i couldnt turn the balancer. im going to assume my bottom end is blown. locked up. and im still not getting the starter to turn over. replaced the ignition, wiring, starter wiring, cables, and my 4 gage ground is now between my trany/motor not my trany/starter. ????

We have been working on the 71' these past 2 weeks or so. New parts Wilwood 1inch B master (could use a 280z booster looking for one) Exedy clutch master Russell lines Slave an ss line Zxt starter Zxt radi Zxt condenser GMB water pump & ss studs ARP manifold studs (pulling head next week install then) Full tune up (ngk wires/plugs,rotella 15-40, Canton oil filter,thermo,hoses) Oiled carbs cleaned all grounds an connecters of dirt, dust, an grime Pads an drums Will post pics as soon as I.can edit them hope for this week.

Thanks for insights Im guessing what I found was a kill switch, I followed the mistery wires to a box the size of a tick tac box, had to tabs one red the other black, wasn't from factory. I pulled this device out. I'm going to check the readings of voltage Tuesday. At this current time when I turn to start the car I get a clicking notion an sound. Amp meters slightly just slightly going to.the navigate -45 but a/c,light, an radio all have power. I cleaned all the grounds an wizzy wheeled the bolts an connections free of rust or dirty connections. New cables, new battery but I wonder of I got a gauge wire one size to small...I pulled the harness that runs next to the starter looked fine no sign of overheading.

Lets make this short an easy issue 1: I picked up a other 240z, this one is a 73' (picked up the 71' last week) Since i gotten the 71 to turn over and idle well i wanted to do the same with the 73' but since i put the battery in (on the stock oem terminals) the car is just making a click sound when you go to start it. On the first try of turning the key to start it, it spun the the motor for 2 seconds, then stopped (i was holding the key to start mod this entire time). Ive never used a AMP meter gauge (oem gauge) but its reading - when you try to start it. I thought it may be the starter and cables and for 100.00 total i new i would replace them anyways so i did so hoping to fix the issue, but sadly no luck. I clean or replaced all the wiring to the start as needed. Now this is why i think i have a dead short. issue 2: On the eom terminal there are 2 wires bonded to the terminal internally(we are talking about the positive terminal). I cut these 2 wires and striped the rubber a bit to get a good lead to use for the new red colored positive terminal i got to replace the old oem terminal. Now i noticed that one of the 2 terminals is from the starter to the Positive terminal and the other (the smaller wire of the 2) is coming from the firewall. when i connected these 2 wires together the battery started to arc (only for 2 seconds/pulled the terminal away). without this wire from the firewall(the smaller wire of the 2) connected to the positive terminal there is no arcing and sparks flying. my question is, is this wire from the firewall a ground? or is there a dead short in the firewall wire? its odd, because the oem terminal had these 2 wires running internally on the same terminal, so was there a divider of sorts or a ground internally? i hope i don't have to pull the dash or a/c unit (scroll box) because my a/c is blowing ice cold after all these years. i looked through my manuuals an have read around but not much to find on this wire coming from the firewall.

Im in the market for E31 head Shipping to 77054.