Wizzurp

Lol swapped the car over to a 3076, rb26 440cc injectors/resistor pack, and a walbro 255. Car feels like low-mid 300's whp on 18psi. Still running well!

My 280z speed sender never really worked. I swapped the skyline one in and it just reads low but it's consistent.

Increasing rpm does not necessarily reduce vac. Redline the car and let off the gas, you will see higher vacuum than idle by a decent bit. If you actually have a fuel pressure gauge and you aren't guessing, check your fuel filter and see if it is packed full of shit. If you have a vac/boost leak you'd have higher pressure when In vac and lower fuel pressure than you should In boost. Regardless of that boost leak test it for sure, that'll cause all sorts of janky rich/lean conditions depending on where it is leaking.

Yep, cars are kind of looooow on my priority list currently.

Yep unless you need a switched powered medium gauge wire on the drivers side of the bay, the coil works well for that.

That's fresh!

Water manages to get under the coil cover plate and makes the plugs look bucknasty. Change them out and enjoy some fresh plug action. Couple tips for the forward facing shit I've figured out. The brake booster line is an obscure m16x2.0 threaded port. I managed to pick up a couple that convert it into a nipple, if you need one let me know and I can drop you one in the mail. The underside ports should be 1/8npt, just need a couple 1/8npt to nipple adapters for using the fpr/bov/whatever other vac source shit. There is one bigger one i haven't gauged yet but I think it'll be 1/4npt

Lol, no, I haven't it's still sitting on my workbench. I moved and the car sat in it's new home for about a month, I actually just drove it for the first time in awhile. I have everything to get it together, just havent had the time. work 8-5 then have class from 6-11pm every day with a newborn at home too haha.

Nice, good on the ebay seller, that's a rarity.

Good choice on the turbos, should should be nasty (I work at fp)

Ok.

Of all the L series motors I've had I've never had a cam/pad wear issue. Every single motor oil choice in this thread is perfectly fine. I told him to prime the motor properly and run it, what about that is incorrect for operating a motor that hasn't been run in years? Are you just mad because I said use cheap rotella? It may be cheap but it is high in zinc/phosphorous, he probably won't have it in there for more than 500 miles anyways, may as well run and do a drain and fill to get rid of any potential gunk that may be in there. I don't understand your agitation.

The main downside of the aforementioned racing oils is that they have very little detergent if any and need to be changed often or they break down and you will see larger changes in viscosity vs normal road car oil.

That states literally nothing about engine break in procedure. I do agree with you on having a quality motor oil, my company recommends vr1, brad penn, amsoil dominator, various joe gibbs oils, and the higher viscosity grades of royal purple XPR to be used with a few others (to retain a warranty on our products) based on our torture testing. That being said, it makes a blistering 23whp per cylinder if he is lucky, it's not exactly seeing a lot of pressure on the bearings, assuming the cam lobes are seeing adequate oil volume of decent quality oil, there isn't a lot of likelihood of something going horribly wrong on a stock motor that likely still has a factory fresh valve adjustment. That being said, the zddp content of rotella or delo is significantly higher than the average automotive oil to the extent that it should do very well on flat tappet cam setups.

Attempt to find the mechanical limiter via valve float for approximately 10 minutes or until the engine is broken in. It says so in the fsm.