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GabeDiaZ27

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  1. OK, So heres what im dealing with right now. My rb20 is having some weird issues running, Idle is good at a 14.7 AFR but under load/driving is where I get problems. Upon initial acceleration or low rpm`s the engine has little power and runs like its missing a cylinder or two with afr`s dipping into the 10`s then as boost comes on it runs normal for a bit like it should with afr`s towards 12-13`s and as the rpm`s raise and I hit full boost it will sputter and pop as it leans all the way out untill my wideband cant go any higher (18+ afr`s). So far I have checked everything manually and also through nistune and I still cant figure it out. Here is my current setup: Stock RB20DET and stock turbo Z32 MAF Nistune chipped ECU RB26 444CC injectors (and resistor wired into the harness) Walbro 255 fuel pump Nismo FPR AEM Wideband I have checked the timing and its at 15 deg. Fuel pump has good power and ground. All injectors are opening/closing. All coilpacks work (I pulled them with the plugs and spun the CAS to double check). ECU dosent pull any codes. Fuel pressure isn`t dropping off. TPS voltage is good. Plugs look good and are gapped to the reccomended .8, The MAF readings look linear and accurate from what I can tell through nistune. If I go into nistune and bump up the fuel it just runs richer in the lower rpm`s and still leans out and pops. The only things left I can think of is a bad MAF, Low voltage to the pump under boost, A bad ignitor for the coilpacks, or possibly a bad CAS or something. Any help would be greatly appreciated because I dont know what else I should check at this point lol.
  2. I should have my twin scroll manifold coming shortly from Cindertrackfabrication, I`ll let you know how good it is when I get it.... not sure when that will be though as it has already been about 5 months over the 2-3 week time frame I was told. Cant say anything about the quality yet but I can say for sure they have terrible costumer service with no updates, no time frames, and even being told it was "almost ready" then later told it was just started on.
  3. So I recently installed a Bee-R rev limiter on my rb20 and had a question. If you know how to install these there is 4 main wires to hook up. Power, Ground, and two others (one green and one yellow) for the signals. anyways I just cut these wires from the ecu and connected them directly to the bee r unit. so far everything has worked fine as far as I can tell. Recently though I have read not to cut these and connect them directly to the bee r but rather splice into or "Piggyback" onto them or at least onto the signal ones. Can anyone who has installed one of these please verify what I should do? I tried it both ways and couldent tell a difference, Thanks!
  4. Sorry only saw that second post for a second. Ok yeah Ill check all the ignition stuff tonight and try to see if I can get further on this
  5. Its running stock boost pressure not anything more, and I have a walbro 255 pump and a nismo fpr. The problem isnt that there is a lack of fuel the problem is that as more vacuum is introduced to the fpr via manifold vacuum it lowers the amount of fuel pressure on the regulator. The engine should be loosing vacuum and go to 0 then into positive pressure as boost comes into play. The vacuum should be highest at idle then drop so more fuel is added as the rmps rise. I just dont know why my vaccume is low at idle then raising with the rpms
  6. Ok so recently I have been plagued with some rb problems. The engine will behave fine but when under boost the engine will bog/stutter kind of like a rev limiter or two step kind of deal but it wont rev much higher than maybe 4k-5k rpm. when there is no load on the engine (in neutral or clutch in) it will rev fine but not while in gear. So I did a lot of trouble shooting and found the cause of the problem, as the engine revs up the vacuum is INCREASING and causing my FPR to cut the fuel down to around 20 psi or so. From my understanding as the rpms rise the vacuum is supposed to DECREASE and go into positive pressure as the boost comes on but it seems that the opposite is happening. Im no master mechanic so I am just wondering what is causing this. could it be a timing chain slipped or something? Im honestly stumped and I cant find much info on this so I need some help or at least a way around this, Thanks in advance.
  7. OK. I have a pretty good deal on a Bee R rev limiter and I don`t want to miss out because I really want one! But sadly I don`t even know if I would be able to use it I have a 1977 280z with the stock L28...only thing is, is that I am running a Holley 4 barrel setup. with that being said I don`t have any of the old EFI stuff or even the ECU so what I am asking is if there is any way to hook up the rev limiter instead via ECU? and if so how would I go about that? I have been trying to look this up but no one seems to have done this before so i`m kinda lost. Thanks- Gabe
  8. I FOUND THE ISSUE!!!! the needle and seat for the primary was stuck shut! I broke it loose and broke it in general but I put it back together and it fired right up, but also shot some fuel out the top because it is broken. So I just need a new needle and seat. Thanks Miles and NewZed for the help and the links to help me find what was causing the issue!
  9. I checked both of the fuel level sight plug hole things and one was a little high and I managed to lower it to the correct amount but the other one (the one closest to the fuel port) had no visible fuel in it and I tried to raise it but that didn't seem to work. So I guess there is a clog or something in the carb?
  10. OK so I just got done putting my 4 barrel conversion all onto my car piece by piece, nothing crazy just a Holley 390 cfm carb on a arizona-z-car intake manifold. I used a self regulating K&N fuel pump to the carb. all the wiring is done and everything is in order but my car still wont start. If I spray carb cleaner into my carb my car will fire right up then die out shortly after (2-3 seconds). What could it be? I am getting fuel for sure at least all the way up to the carb that is. The carb was a used one off someone else`s RUNNING 280z but he did say it sat for awhile before I had bought it. With the way it acts if I spray carb cleaner in it I would think its a fuel problem but being relatively new to carbs I don't want to mess it up trying to tune something I know nothing about. If anyone could help me out that would be great because im 9 months into this project and its finally time to drive it and I cant wait! I appreciate any help at all, Thanks! -Gabe
  11. Ok guys I found a 4 barrel setup for $450! You can close this now
  12. Yeah I have been looking into carbs for a while now and even if the problem is something else it would save me a lot of time to know that the air/fuel mixture is already correct. almost every single connector in the EFI system was severely corroded. The connectors for the fuel injectors were so bad that if you wiggled them they would go out on you. The carbs have been an upgrade I would have made either way but because of how troublesome the EFI is on my particular car I am switching now, and yes I am aware of the fuel pump and other things...believe it or not I do research a lot I didn't install the distributor on my car it was already installed but I will look into that! I probably will have to get some work done to it anyways if I can afford some triple webers, I think if I read correctly you have to get it modded to allow the webers to run perfect.
  13. I have some stock 280z wheels?
  14. Hi I am looking for a carb setup for my 280z. A 4 barrell or triple setup in good condition is what im looking for. Preferably the entire setup (carbs,Intake manifold,Linkages) so that I can get it all at once but if you have just a manifold or carbs in good condition that is fine too! I have $900 to spend on this MAX. You can reply here or txt me at 972-955-0116 or email me at gabediazz27@yahoo.com Thanks!
  15. Alright guys I have decided that I am going to do the switch to carbs. I have had it planned out for awhile now but wanted to fix the efi first but because of all the trouble and cost I am going straight to the carbs. I will post in the parts wanted section but if any of you guys have a setup [triples or 4 barrell] I will gladly buy it off of you for a reasonable price. Thanks!
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