brokebolt

I was looking through a plumbing book and ran across this the other day and I thought I'd share some info. Standard auto hose to -AN hose equivalent: 1/8 inch = -2 3/16 inch = -3 1/4 inch = -4 5/16 inch = -5 3/8 inch = -6 1/2 inch = -8 5/8 inch = -10 3/4 inch = -12 1 inch = -16 1 1/4 inch = -20 1 1/2 inch = -24 1 3/4 inch = -28 2 inch = -32 Another method to convert -AN size to S.A.E. is to remember that -AN number represents 1/16 inch: For example: -8AN = 8/16 inch = 1/2 inch. -AN Thread sizes: -AN size = Metal Tube O.D. in inches = Thread Size and Pitch S.A.E. -2 = 1/8 inch = 5/16 - 24 S.A.E. -3 = 3/16 inch = 3/8 - 24 S.A.E. -4 = 1/4 inch = 7/16 - 20 S.A.E. -5 = 5/16 inch = 1/2 - 20 S.A.E. -6 = 3/8 inch = 9/16 - 18 S.A.E. -8 = 1/2 inch = 3/4 - 16 S.A.E. -10 = 5/8 inch = 7/8 - 14 S.A.E. -12 = 3/4 inch = 1 1/16 - 12 S.A.E. -16 = 1 inch = 1 5/16 - 12 S.A.E. -20 = 1 1/4 inch = 1 5/8 - 12 S.A.E. -24 = 1 1/2 inch = 1 7/8 - 12 S.A.E. -28 = 1 3/4 inch = 2 1/4 -12 S.A.E. -32 = 2 inch = 2 1/2 - 12 S.A.E. -AN size wrench size to S.A.E. wrench size (if you use a standard S.A.E. wrench don't over torque the fittings): -4 = 9/16 inch S.A.E. -6 = 11/16 inch S.A.E. -8 = 7/8 inch S.A.E. -10 = 1 inch S.A.E. -12 = 1 1/4 inch S.A.E. -16 = 1 1/2 inch S.A.E. My copy has plumbing "shadows" so you can match up the actual fitting to a "picture" for fast identifications for both -A.N. and N.P.T. But if you have a set of calipers or a steel scale handy you can also measure them just as quick. Hope this helps. Found this on the web, not sure how true but shows some standard metric to S.A.E hose sizes: 4mm = 5/32 inch 5.5mm = 7/32 inch 6mm = 1/4 inch 8mm = 5/16 inch 10mm = 3/8 inch 11mm = 7/16 inch 13mm = 1/2 inch 14mm = 9/16 inch 16mm = 5/8 inch 19mm = 3/4 inch 50mm = 2 inch 57mm = 2 1/4 inch 64mm = 2 1/2 inch One more thought on fuel pumps: Your pump must be capable of maintaining the minimum GPH at working pressure under all conditions HP divided by 2 = lb./hr. (pounds per hour) lb./hr divided by 6 = gallons per hour required (min) Multiply GPH by 1.15 for safety factor Example: 600 HP divided by 2 = 300, 300 divided by 6 = 50 50 multiplied by 1.15 = 57.5 (minimum gallons per hour) (This formula is for gasoline only.)

I don't have a direct answer to your question... My advice would be to get a good book, like "How to Build & Power Tune Weber & Dellorto DCOE & DHLA Carburettors" by Des Hammill. Excellent book for the dollar and readily available for like 20-30 bucks. Worth the cost for sure. You can find this book on Amazon or other online book sellers. You should be able to source this from your local book store as well. I like this book because you still can find copies, it covers both Weber and Dellorto carbs so if you upgrade, you can still use this book (He, he!)...also a car club library would benefit from this book as it covers both carbs. Their are many other books that are available, this is just one in an arsenal of good books. This site also has loads of help, and tips for Webers. Search "Weber" and you'll find a whole pile of discussions. If you're going to be a triple carb owner it would greatly behove you to learn how to work on your own carbs. Most speed shops charge by the hour and like any business you get what you pay for. Tuning these carbs are "relatively" easy and tear down and cleaning is "relatively" straight forward. A good resource like a car club accompanied with a book can greatly help you along that path of ownership. Also note that most people these days are leaning towards EFI for the ease of tuning, and most carb guru's from back in the day, are getting up in age and might not be interested in helping a newbie. Just my $0.02. Best of luck.

Weber DCO = 12 mm X 1.5 mm threads Dellorto DHLA & Mikuni PHH = 12 mm X 1.25 mm threads Solex ADDHE = 9 mm X 1 mm threads Russel, Earls, Aeroquip, and even no-name brands (like Jegs) all produce -AN to metric fitting and all the -AN plumbing your looking for. Use the list above for your particular carb, then choose your -AN size: 8-AN, 6-AN, 4-AN; etc. Search Summit Racing dot com '-an metric' and you will find an extensive list and descriptions to build your custom plumbing. EAR-9919DFGERL Earls part number, might be the cheapest way to connect and -AN hose to your carb, just at 10 bucks. The swivel (EAR-949092ERL) might be as cheap but I always worry about fuel leakage. The carb doesn't move so I see no need for the swivel. Your call. But hose can flex a bit and they usually don't leak, unless they rub a hole. In that case your in trouble eitherway... Best of luck, and post some pics when your done. Happy parts hunting.

The insert type you will still need the "tabs" that hold the horn in place; two should be used per horn, four per carb. Extra cost not addressed in the original post. The flange mounted version will fit any side draft, Mikuni/Solex, Weber, Dellorto, or O.E.R., etc. Because of the "universal" fit, you will see most air horns are of this type. The insert type will be a smoother transition from the horn into the inner venture (auxiliary venture). Mikuni/Solex did this with an insert that fit over the inner venture and butted up to the outer venture (choke). Honestly, I really don't see that your going to "gain" that much performance using the insert type vs. the flange type. Horn length and horn shape play a much bigger role then insert of flange mounting in my humble opinion. Longer horn is like a longer manifold, better for street use. Wide opening on the horn is better for air draw. A rolled lip at the horn inlet seems to the the accepted superior design or a donut ring on the horn inlet...if that makes sense. Honestly, this is why I prefer the Dellorto carb. The inner venture has the insert that the Mikuni/Solex units had in two pieces, slap on a horn and your golden. Also, no gasket for the Dellorto carb on the auxiliary venture. Try changing the choke while the carb is still mounted on the manifold, and attached to the engine in the engine bay. Not that fast and not that easy. Just my rant of the day!!! (And yes, I know Weber didn't use a gasket.) Factor in the tabs, recalculate and then compare cost vs. performance. Either version should bolt on and work. Hope this helps. Happy wrenchin'!

I'll just add to the list. Mikuni is the shortest (note picture above) I've seen and it is stamped with the letters that spell the name, in the example the letters are painted red (nice touch). TWM, Cannon and FET also stamp the letters in the casting. SK Racing uses a steel acid etched placard like you might find on the door jam of most cars. Redline has it scripted on the bottom and Lynx has no markings that I recall. The real issue with measuring the manifold length is the head mounting surface isn't on a parallel plane as the carb mounting surface. So the two mounting surfaces don't run parallel to each other. For example the Mikuni measures 75 mm on the top and 68 on the bottom. So, I will give you the measurements from the top of each mounting flange of the manifold (not inside the hole where it bolts to the head but above it) for standardization and also note other things (like truing) will change how this measurement is interpreted. I will also include millimeters as we are working on Metric cars not American iron. My side drafts are stamped in millimeters not inches, how bout yours? Cannon, Redline and others like the one that I have heard called the Nissan/Datsun motor-sports intake which is stamped with a 240Z in the same location as the Redline script, are all the same casting, or really close to it. TWM, SK Racing and Nissan Comp are the same with some differences and FET is really close to the same length as the TWM but has a nasty twist like the Mikuni version. Rebello is correct the longer runners are better for street use, all out HP go short with the Mikuni but good luck finding anyone that will part with one. So the best solution is the TWM as it is a nice hybrid version of the two manifolds and has no massive twist and is readably available as of lately...but haven't checked in a while. TWM = 110 mm/(4 5/16") Mikuni = 75 mm/(2 15/16") RS Compe = 110 mm/(4 3/8") Hayashi = ? FET Kyokuto = 104 mm/(4 1/4") Nissan Comp = 110 mm/(4 3/8") Shokei = ? Kameari = ? Redline = 140 mm/(5 1/2") Weber = ? Cannon = 141 mm/(5 9/16") SK Racing = 110 mm/(4 3/8") Lynx = 122 mm/(4 13/16") Off the wall no name that looks like a Lynx = 124 mm/(4 7/8") I need to add that these are not with a dial indicator on a marble slab, just a quickie with vernier calipers and a flat work bench. Happy measuring!

I might be late for your project but here is my $0.02. The cam will have to be removed to mill the head so the cam timing is off for sure. The timing notches will need to be selected based on the amount of milling, with only 0.008" you might be able to re-use the same cam position if the head has not been milled previously and was close to spec before the start of this project. However, being that the position was not checked (or noted that it was checked) prior to removal then you may need to select one of the other two dowel holes that the stock cam gear has bored into the back of the gear (their are three total). If it were me, I would remove the front oil pan bolts, remove the timing cover, inspect the chain guides and tensioner (replace if needed), set crank to TDC using a dial indictor and cam wheel (if not available, then just guess), set cam to TDC using the middle cam gear dowel hole aligning the cam gear with notch on first cam tower, place head onto block, install chain aligning the cam gear with the crank gear and yes they have to match I always use the shinny gold links but you can count them if your unable to find them, install tensioner, check chain for slack, install both guides, install head bolts and torque, turn over engine with 27 mm (1 1/16" 6 point may fit) socket wrench and check for any problems with cam timing. Re-install all of the removed parts and hardware with new gaskets, install motor from where it was pulled...unless it was a junker/donor car... P.S. I have had no luck reinstalling the chain tensioner if the chain has slacked up enough to fully disengage the piston from the tension block. That is why I just remove the front timing cover...to prevent damaging the spring and causing more parts usage then necessary, been their done that!!! Happy wrenching.

Yes, Fubarl33t that is correct. Weber DCO = 12 mm X 1.5 mm threads Dellorto DHLA & Mikuni PHH = 12 mm X 1.25 mm threads Solex ADDHE = 9 mm X 1 mm threads Any O.E. R. or SK Racing users care to post?

Wow!!! That would be interesting to see! Not that I doubt they caught fire just surprised they did!!! Very dangerous indeed!!! I have always used Cool It Termo-Tec Natural 2 inch wide header wrap. They make a copper and black version as well. I'm sure their are many others that will work just as well. But to comment on your experience, mine too went dark after a minimal run time, smoked for a while until they went dark, but no fire to report...yet. I don't DD the car anymore but the sport 600 motorcycle I did the headers on was used extensively without any problems. The real kicker on the bike was that if you run the pipe under the oil drain plug and the o-ring gets too hot and oil leaks on them, they tend to smoke more and longer... I'm willing to guess that's oil down there burning away though... "Use a Copper gasket next time, Copper..." Heat shields used in conjunction with header wrap should provide decent results. I've never used the thermo blankets or Heat-Safe products but I say give it a whirl and report back your experience. I like to take a more scientific approach to things, install a couple of remote temp gauges, like that which you might find at any home improvement store for measuring 'outside the house' temps, install several under the hood in various locations, drive the car around noting weather conditions and gauge temps in various driving scenarios (a buddy in the passenger seat helps) and then install one heat isolation item at a time, trying to repeat the same conditions each time. That should give you some 'real world data' that actually makes sense. And way better then slogans on the packaging that proclaims "Reduces under-hood temps by (as much as) 70%!!! *results not typical*" Just my $0.02

That actually sound like a solid plan. Removable and well designed. Cost vs. performance, would seem to be inline, I bought a Mikuni Manifold that had a very similar set up for a Turbo. The manifold block (vacuum log) was only a few inches long though, but it was a square block and had a round bore in the center. Longer would be better, like stretching the entire length of the intake runners. It didn't use banjo bolts but tomato, tamato... Beefier linkage is always a plus. I can't stand that stamp steel junk they include with the Cannon manifolds. I like to use 3/16" heim joints for the carb link arms, lots of adjustability and very beefy, and 3/8" as the risers for the throttle shaft rod. I had a Lynx manifold once years ago, and if memory serves me they are only missing the bungs on cylinders one and five. Is that correct? Mine too had those stupid plastic heims, fortunately for me the threads were all stripped out and I was forced (not reluctantly by the way) to replace them with all steel units... and I too stepped up the throttle shaft rod size. That really is an odd location for the throttle shaft. TWM, Mikuni and others got it right by stuffing the throttle shaft towers close to the carb mounting flange. Hey, those look like a set of Dellorto DHLA hidden under those triple bore throttle bodies. What are those throttle bodies from anyhow? What's the bore size? Do share.

Honestly, unless your doing all the welding yourself, the cost might outweigh any benefit you would gain, in my humble opinion. As far as addressing your engine vacuum issues, an aftermarket vacuum system would be the best solution to evacuate the crank case of spent blow by gases and such. That would also be the most expensive option aswell. As far as making a vacuum log (as those EFI guys like to call them) then you can make one relatively easy as long as you tap each runner and pull vacuum from each runner to ensure no lean cylinders. That could get messy real quick if you were burning up parts. As far as welding up a manifold, you sure could do that but I wouldn't expect to see any real improvements except at maybe idle. The firing order may not lead prudent to having enough time to smooth out the idle across all the cylinders. It wouldn't hurt anything, maybe performance but other then that, as long as the welds were good and no leaks... give it a rip and try it out. Haven't seen anyone do this... yet. I might consider welding bungs on the remaining runners and simply running a vacuum log with hose fitting from each runner. If it doesn't work out like you expect you can always plug the bung holes and your only out the cost of adding the additional bungs. Or maybe spray some "juice" in those runners and scrap the vacuum log idea altogether. Your call.

Some Cannon manifold have the balance tube bored clean through, others were bored only on the ends between the the fifth and sixth holes; some also had it on the front one and two holes. Others I seen have not been bored at all between any cylinders. Mikuni used a plate that sandwiched between the carb and the manifold and had a cut out between the bores on the same carb, unsure what they came from. FET made a manifold that has a balance bar on all six runners with several taps on the bar. The Mikuni manifold has bungs on each runner so you can add a small block manifold with tubes. The benefit would only be at idle and low speed operation. At W.O.T., or close to it, you're drawing way more air though the bore of the carb then you ever could through the balance tube. Yes, the benefit would be a smoother idle and low speed operation but that really would depends on the engine set up, cam, etc. If it idles rough with no balance tube it's gonna idle rough with one... just not as bad. If your looking for a smooth idle then a triple set up isn't the key, the carb is "on" for one pulse and then "off" for five. The SU's have an alternating pattern of "on", "off" that with the balance tube have a very smooth operation and idle due in part to, what I would consider, a huge internal volume of the stock balance tube. And it makes a great place to stuff a bunch of smog junk...

But I'll do my best to answer some of your questions. The F11 is richer then the F15 within the same series. The F15 is missing the lower Air Bleed holes in the E-tube. Other then that they are "cut" the same. This is why Weber is so confusing, and why I am not a fan. You can always use the smaller choke with either combo you select. The choke will increase the Auxiliary venture velocity, might be a better choice on a daily driver. All around I would use the second set of tuning parts, you might be richer at idle but more fuel means less risk of burnt engine parts. You might waste fuel overall and lessen your performance gains but in the end fuel is almost always cheaper then a teardown and rebuild, time and parts wise; especially on a daily driver. Just my $0.02. Happy tuning.

Not a huge fan of chrome, function before design. Also would those air horns fit between the inner finder? For that price I would seriously consider a EFI ITB set up. Just my $0.02. Gangster = Blown? Good to know!!! So that must make me just cool. Those are Mikuni/Solex PHH 50 mm's? I think so!!!

I am not familiar with the Mallory stuff, but the MSD manual states: "When using the WHITE wire to trigger the MSD, install a switch across the magnetic pickup VIOLET wire to ground. When the VIOLET wire is grounded, the vehicle will crank but not start. When using the mag pickup to trigger the MSD, install a switch to the WHITE wire and the other side to ground. When the WHITE wire is grounded, the vehicle will crank but will not start." So you could control this with a relay, toggle switch or other means but the principle remains the same... theft deterrent!

The other option for cold starting an engine equipped with a carburetor(s) is to add an electric fuel pump and a electronic circuit like that found on modern EFI cars where you kick on the electric pump when the ignition is 'on'. You will need to install a crash isolator switch (technical name maybe wrong). This prevents the car pump from running if involved in a collision or vehicle roll over. Safety first! What PanzerAce says is correct and will work well for bone dry bowls. Kill switches are always a great theft deferent. The MSD 6AL Ignition box has a wire for just that purpose.