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tech9

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Posts posted by tech9

  1. I'm thinking non-ac and AC needs a different heater control valve. Anyways, I need one to test on the 2 z's I have, and for a spare.

    One car is stuck on heat, and the other leaks when on hot. Don't want to take it all apart without a few spare parts ;)

     

    Colorado we need heat!

  2. Megasquirt is like any other open source type project, it has many "testers" and developers.

     

    I took me about a year to get my megasquirt all working perfectly with all of the extras I wanted working on it.

    Anyone can get a simple MSII install done within a few days, assuming you build it correctly.

     

    The biggest problem I had was noise caused by my coil on plug, which is very hard to determine where the problem lies without a really good scope.

    Finally got it running smooth, and its by far the most fun project i've tackled yet.

     

    If you want something easy, or don't want to make custom parts, stick with a distributor.

     

    I'm glad there is a huge userbase of megasquirt or I would have never figured out all my problems.

    msextra.com has tons of help, as well as msefi.com

     

    Also, getting rid of the maf was awesome, map+tps is by far more responsive and also more efficient in my car.

  3. I have a stock hy35 that i'm getting setup. I have seen a lot of people modify theirs for a vband setup and mine is just a bolt on normal holset flange that goes to the stock dodge downpipe, which I do have but I would like to stay away from.

     

    Can I modify this turbo to make a vband seal on the exhaust to downpipe? Or do I need to just create a downpipe with a holset flange (they sell these on ebay all day)?

    A little confused on how these holsets are, maybe some have vband and some don't?

     

    Thanks!

  4. There is no way to "move" it actaully. Using derek's setup, and I fixed the problem (or so I think)

     

    I was the gap between the sensor and wheel, his setup is not really adjustable, but I will have to mod it a little to get it closer. I taped the VR sensor on to the correct gap tonight and it synced perfect.

     

    I'm going to test the fan / alternator setup first before I get it all installed to make sure there is no noise.

     

    Thanks!

  5. I guess i'm doing something completely wrong.

     

    I tried another MS unit, same problem, rewired the vr sensor using shielded wire on both + and -, disconnected alternator, etc etc.

     

    It just keeps resetting sync no matter what I do. I wish I had a scope to see what the problem really was. Any ideas appreciated.

  6. I'm using the wire supplied from diyautotune (the grey shielded type) and 1 regular ground wire. I tried both polaritys also, I can't find anywhere that says specific which wire is + or -, so I'm just testing both for now.

     

    The only thing that is hooked up is the alternator and it is right next to the vr sensor, no way to get the wire away from it, since its only inches from it.

     

    I was thinking it was external noise, but I just can't seem to find the problem. I have everything unplugged, even the fans, etc right now to figure this out.

     

    Next: Trying my friends ms board, and another vr sensor, and also trying to shield both of the vr sensor wires.

     

    Thanks for the help!

  7. I am having some serious problems figuring out why my ford vr sensor hates megasquirt.

     

    I can't get it to stay synced for the life of me. While cranking it will lose sync every second or so. I have tried different wires, different grounding techniques, tried tuning the vr pots, unplugged everything from megasquirt except vr sensor, swapped a cap (that was said was causing sync problems on megamanual) I have tried almost everything and I can't seem to figure out the problem.

     

    Running MS2 board, msextra software, etc.

  8. Ok wheel is setup PERFECTLY, i double checked everything today.

    I set MS to 50 degrees BTDC for the #1 tooth (i'm assuming this is correct, 5 tooth * 10 degrees each tooth).

     

    I set MS to fixed timing of 10 degrees, get the timing light on the wheel and the mark is nowhere to be seen when the engine is idling.

     

    I can play with the tooth angle to get the TDC mark to line up, but the math is not correct somewhere.

  9. Its just the sensor, running direct fire COP. Are you using the sensor only? If so can you send me a pic of your trigger wheel / ignition settings just for reference?

     

    I set it up as your instructions provided just haven't touched it in months and forgot what I was doing ;) It's "working" but the timing is just way off, not sure if it was my error or just settings.

     

    Thanks! :D

  10. NOTICE the lack of dissy in this video!

     

     

    Need to get the tune a little better, and figure out the timing issues. For some reason the timing at idle is ~20+ (I think that is the popping you hear).

     

    Haven't worked on it much though, need to get a radiator/fan combo that I ordered installed to actually run the engine more then 30 seconds.

     

    In other news, turbo engine is getting cleaned and rebuilt right now. Once I get this tune running normally we can do the SWAP! :D

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