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noelawinslow last won the day on June 11 2013

noelawinslow had the most liked content!

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    San Antonio, Texas

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  1. Ha that ice storm is Dallas kept me from getting my Z down here from Arkansas for another month or two. Naturally it happened when my brother in law had a couple free days at the same time I did. How did you keep a dash from cracking in Texas?
  2. I recently ran into an issue on my z31 where rust got into the fuel lines, and I couldn't prove why. I looked inside the tank and it was clean. I postulated the alcohol content stripped some rust buildup from the tank and sent it through the pump. Made more sense because the pump won't hold pressure when it's shut off anymore either, so perhaps the particulates damaged the check valve while it worked its way into my fuel lines. Not too sure, but it made me wonder if it'd be worth it to make a conversion for some people/cars. On my S30 I'll run flex fuel if I can map it right, I don't inherently hate ethanol. Djwarner, thanks for the article, kept me awake during music appreciation.
  3. I don't know if this has been discussed before, but I'm curious why it's not a more popular idea. I was talking to my brother in law the other day, and we have very different views on whether or not ethanol should be in gasoline in the first place. While he bemoaned its effects on his lawn mower and chainsaw, I asked him if he knew if it was possible to pull the ethanol from the gas after it's been added. After all, it's just gas + booze, right? Turns out you can use ethanols negative properties against it to purify your gas using phase separation, which is just a fancy way of saying water and gas don't mix. There's a couple points I haven't quite figured out yet. Mostly how to figure out the octane rating after removing the ethanol. Long story short, you add water to your gas tank (bear with me) and suck out the water/ethanol mix that will ensue from adding the water. Then, once it all settles, you can drain the mix from the bottom of the tank with either an aftermarket drain plug of some sort, or from the top via an inspection port if your car has one (like the z31's sender unit). The trick is to figure out how much water to add and how much water/ethanol to pull out before you start sucking gas instead. I ran some math, in my area gas is about 2.43. If you buy E10 at $2.43, and it's 10% ethanol, you get 9 gallons of pure gas for every 10 gallons of e10 you buy. That comes out to $2.70 per gallon after you pull the ethanol. But the upside is since gasoline has higher energy content, you'll get a couple extra mpg from the process. So if you get 24 mpg on 2.43 and 27 on 2.70, you'll still end up with basically the same ratio of $ to miles, which is more important to me than mpg. So for about 5-6 buck per fill up you can use pure gas instead of regular gas. Actually pulling the gas out seems like it'll be the fun part, but it seems the ethanol/water mix is a different color than the pure gasoline so if you rig up a clear hose and container to view the gas, you'll see when you've removed all the ethanol water mix. How much water do you use? Not much, really. Most places I've read say abou .45% to .5%. Add too much water and all you have to do is drain the water then the water/ethanol mix, which will sit at the very bottom of the tank. So in practice probably about 2.75 oz per gallon of gas for e10. Keep in mind e10 is a rough approximation of the actual ethanol content, so YMMV as far as how much water to use. I'd add the water first then the e10, since the station pump will help mix the water thoroughly with the e10. About 10 to 20 minutes of settling after you pump the gas should in theory separate most of the ethanol out. No big deal since it'll take about 10 minutes to access the fuel tank from the top of my z31 that I'm planning on testing this idea on. I don't see why this isn't done more often, is there any particular reason why not?
  4. I'll put the gauge on my truck today and see if the gauge reads out well. The gauge is also new.
  5. My bad, the pressure was 60psi idle before I replaced the fpr. Signs keeps pointing to it's still bad so I'll go get another one. This regulator can't be installed backwards very easily, it has two supply lines for the rail which orient it.
  6. Fuel dribbles out the FPR return when routed to the fuel can, but I'm still getting a solid 60 psi. Crimped off the supply line after priming and fuel still loses pressure.
  7. If your ecu was replaced recently then likely there was an issue that knocked it out in the first place, which would make me more likely to suspect the ecu and try to track down the murderous short.
  8. I thought the system was supposed to retain pressure with the engine off. I cleared the lines and started the car up again, 60 psi still and it barely idles. I'll run a return line to a gas can and see how that works for me. Is it safe to run compressed air through the return line in the tank with the fuel cap off?
  9. Hey all, picked up an NA auto z31, trying to track down a hard start and misfire condition. Checked fuel pressure just after the filter and it kept shooting down to 0 after I shut it off, so I crimped off the return line, primed the system, and crimped off the supply line. Still bleeds out. Replaced FPR. Fuel pressure stable at 60 psi at idle. Much too high. Holds pressure long enough to watch the needle drop now though. Pulled the evap check valve. One way it slowly releases air and the other way it lets out plenty, so apparently that's good. I hooked up an air compressor to the return line, wondered if that might jack up the pressure, blasted air through it at 5psi at first, no issue. Moved up to 60 psi and there's no blockage. Might as well clean the supply side out too but now I'm kinda out of options unless I want to check the Evap system further. I didn't think evap could cause problems like that.
  10. What exactly did you "revise"? I can think of a number of reasons why your oil gauge reads zero. If you have no oil running through your engine, or you even suspect you have zero oil pressure, don't start the car. At all, until you are positive you found the issue and verified it. If no oil's running through your engine, it can make quick work of it and let all the lubricated surfaces slap into each other. Not good. So you're going to want to check your oil pressure manually at first, since it's entirely possibly your car isn't getting a good pressure reading. Go to a harbor freight or an autozone and buy/rent an oil pressure test gauge, and screw it into your oil pressure sender. I wouldn't start the car though, at this point, unless someone was watching the gauge. The specs are in the FSM.
  11. Hey I'm wondering if anyone has any 280z bumper shocks/mounts/brackets, whatever you call em, that they saved after a 240z bumper conversion or something. It'd be awesome if you also had the hardware to attach it, for a bit of headache relief. Text me pics if you do 8707363795. I can try to PayPal.
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