ukcats07

Okay, I got my pan and when I go to install it I have like 3/4" of slack where the pan will not lay flat on the block... Is it possible I got a V6 pan instead of the 302 pan? Am I missing something obvious here? Here's the link to the pan I bought, ugh this is frustrating... So after researching a little bit, I found that a high-volume pump might need "minor pan modifications". I checked my dynagear part number and sure enough I have a high volume pump. Is there that big of a difference (height-wise) between a high-volume and standard? I was getting pissed thinking that I got a pan that wasn't what I paid for.

Thanks for the info. I went ahead and purchased the Capri pan. I'll post how it works out when I get around to installing the engine and tranny. It looks like it's going to be identical to the summit pan that Z8 calls for in his writeup, just with the dipstick tube built into the pan. Hopefully it is. [edit] should have clarified, I bought the stock replacement Capri pan. Not the 9" racing sump pan.

I can't seem to find the dimensions for this pan, but it does have the dipstick tube setup in the pan already (i.e. no welding or fabricating the summit one Z8's write-up calls out) for my 302 conversion. My block does not have a rear-sump dipstick hole in the block. Here's a link to the pan I'm talking about It's a dual sump pan and looks like it will work but if anybody has dimensions, or can find them, that would be great. If not, I'm probably going to go with a Canton style 7qt pan. The only thing that bothers me is that it's a 9" sump vs. the 7.25" from summit--ground clearance for the pan is something that definitely worries me. thanks doug

If you're a visual learner, like myself, you can check out this DVD. http://boxwrench.net/ I've watched as many of their videos on Youtube that I can find (will be purchasing the DVD) and I love them.

Thanks, will do. For anyone still interested in this post, I took the motor apart tonight ...first one, yay! Everything looked brand new. The bearings are obviously still new, the crank rotated nice and smooth with no pistons (still pretty smooth with them), cylinder walls have a nice cross-hatch and look otherwise brand new. I haven't miked anything yet so I don't know clearances and what-not, but it's on the list of things to do. Suggestions on what clearances I should check while I got this out? I've heard about plastiguage, what's that and should I be using it? Lot's of questions from this first timer. I appreciate everyone's help and patience.. Pics below http://s201.photobucket.com/albums/aa58/dgsr2002/302%20teardown/

Looks like I've got ARP bolts throughout the bottom end and the cylinder heads. I know that they are torqued to a different spec. How do I find that spec. if I don't know exactly which ones I got? Should I just use the factory torque, or am I setting myself up for something to go wrong? Thanks again

Thanks Bill, Disco Reason and logic have prevailed over my desire to do things lazily. I'll take the motor apart and learn some things in the process. I've got the How to Rebuild a Small Block Ford by George Reid book with great color pictures so it shouldn't be that big of a learning curve. Couple of questions: 1. Assume that I take it to the machine shop and everything that I have now checks out OK. What can I safely re-use (nuts, bolts, etc.) when I take this apart and re-assemble? 2. Piston rings and bearings were mentioned. If both rings and bearings are basically new, should I replace them anyway? Thanks in advance Doug Admins, feel free to move if this needs to be in the powerplant section.

You were reading right wizard, it is a rebuilt motor, not one just pulled out of a car. I just don't know exactly what was done to it besides that it was bored over 0.040. The more I've been looking at the motor, the more I think that I should be able to just take the heads off, disassemble them and have them cleaned. At that point I would be able to see the cylinders and the top of the pistons and clean with comp. air appropriately. The bottom end looks fine (no surface rust) and still has a ton of assembly lube from the rebuild. If I take the heads off and the cylinder walls and deck don't look peachy then I'll disassemble and bring the block, etc. to the machinist. Sound like a plan, or should I reconsider not taking it all apart? Thanks for the responses.

Thanks all. This is kind of an "on the cheap" and a "let's do it right" build mixed together. I think just to be safe I'll strip the block and have a machine shop hot tank and clean up as needed. This will be my first engine teardown (not new to working on cars, just never got into the internals of the engine) so I'm kind of nervous to mess anything up. I've got plenty of reading material that I've already shot through (JTR, Haynes, How to rebuild the small block ford) that should help me through this. The How to Rebuild a Small Block Ford book has a good list of items to discuss with the machinist when performing a rebuild, but I don't think I need everything on that list. Unfortunately I'm at work and can't recite it verbatim, but I'm assuming some of the things I would want the machinist to look at would be: -Bore size -deck "trueness" -drawing a blank on anything else I'm not trying to sink a ton of money into this block but I do want it to be serviceable. Side note, do I need to disassemble the heads before having them cleaned or will the shop clean with with the valve springs, etc. on them? I appreciate the responses. BTW, just picked up a T5 today for a good price off craigslist:). Closer to getting this going...

Thanks Bill Do you have a ballpark estimate on what this might put me back? I should add that the engine was purchased from my grandpa's neighbor, so I do have some reachback on what was done to the block. I would really rather not pull it all apart, but it might be a good idea just to get an idea of the quality of work the previous machine shop did. Here's some pics I just took, not great but should give you an idea of what I'm seeing

As the title suggests, I'm trying to clean a long block that my father bought for me. It's a 302, bored .040 over, that has some surface rust on the valvetrain and intake surfaces. The manifold ports have been exposed as well, due to the intake not being bolted on, so I don't know what might have fallen in them. Am I going to have to take the heads off to make sure this block is clean? I'll post some pics in a little bit (I'm about to go play golf ) for all to see. Thanks in advance

a club would be awesome, unfortunately (for this club's sake) my wife's going to pop mid-november and I got this new job thing that's gonna be nagging me...however, I will gladly help start said club with any extra time I might have, at least until the baby comes. doug

Gary, Wayback machines are awesome. I love hearing stories from my grandpa about his time as a young Airman in Europe. It sounds to me like I should be the one buying you a beer, or two!

awesome I'm glad there's a few people close by...I'm definitely cool with helping pull an engine or work on suspension, or just helping out in any way...my first car was a 73' 240 that my dad and I worked on. Got bored with it in high school, actually I hated having to pull the choke and wait to go home, so I sold it to him and he has it about 95% complete. I'll be cool with any Z 70-78'.

Cool, I'll message you once I'm town. I did my field training at Tyndall in 2004...needless to say I didn't really care for the base at that time. My AFSC is 063A, acquisition management...stupid engineering degree.. I have heard really good things about Eglin as I have a few friends from school who are stationed there. I take it you're in the AF as well? What do you do?

I'll be moving to Eglin AFB, FL in august and I just wanted to see if anyone with a V8Z, or any Z for that matter, lives in the panhandle. I can't seem to find any Z's in the classifieds for that area and I really want one to start a project... thanks