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ukcats07 last won the day on May 23 2020

ukcats07 had the most liked content!

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About ukcats07

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 06/03/1984

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    Sheppard AFB, TX

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  1. Looking for a wideband that can be used with a Gen 3 PCM (EGR/AC PCM input). Thanks.
  2. Thanks! I had an 87' RX7 in high school that caught fire twice. First time I put it out with an extinguisher, the second time I didn't have an extinguisher and had to watch it burn to the ground. After that lovely event, I always make sure I have one handy.
  3. Started the 5.3 after 5 years of not having the car yesterday. Everything went fairly smooth with no leaks or weird noises. Lifters were a little loud, but settled down on the second start. My fan didn't come on, but after some research I determined that the PCM grounds pin 42 instead of sending 12v. My pin 85 and 86 in the fan relay were both set to ground so the relay was never going to get energized. Pin 86 will be given 12v and now it should come on. Nice to have the first start monkey off the back and get to finishing the car. LS 240z start.mp4
  4. Thanks for all the input. My ignition switch checks good when disconnected from the lock assembly. I'm going to focus on the battery hot circuits and see if a wire is mixed up somewhere giving power to the BW wire somehow. I can deal without the wiper and flasher circuit for the time being until I find the problem.
  5. The other thing that's not very clear is the 2 wires on the lock assembly with male spades. I believe they are for the door buzzer and door closed switch, but not sure how they work with respect to key position and whether they can somehow be tied into the other parts of the cars wiring unintentionally.
  6. I measured the B/W wire at the ignition switch, in the plug. What I don't understand is how I was getting 0v in OFF, but suddenly receiving 12v when turned all the way to LOCK. The wiring diagram is unclear, but I assume that none of the contacts (with the exception of the W/R wire contact) should be hot in LOCK. I removed the key assembly as a culprit by testing another known good key with my 5 pin ignition switch and I only received continuity on the appropriate pins when it was turned their respective positions--i.e. only the ACC pin had continuity when the key was in ACC, etc.
  7. Also, to be clear, my B/Y wire now does not spike when the key is turned slowly like it did before I pulled the fuses.
  8. I have a 5 point ignition switch in my Z. My Dad gave me a spare switch and lock combo that I tested and it checked out good as well. To be clear, my plug that goes into the ignition on the steering wheel has five wires-- W/R power, L/R accessory, B/W ignition, B/Y start, G/W tach-resistor. I tested for continuity at each spade and it all checked good--is that sufficient testing for an ignition switch? Also, I'm still unclear as to why it operates normally now that the fuses are removed.
  9. I'll start off by saying I solved my problem, but I'm unclear of why it worked. Bottom line is that I was receiving 12v on the Black/White keyed wire while the key was in the “LOCK” position, 0v in “OFF” and “ACC” then 12v in “RUN” and “START”. All of this is normal with the exception of the “LOCK” position. Measurements were made at the ignition switch. I was also getting ground indications from this wire (one side of the multi-meter on the B/W and the other would have continuity when touched to any ground on the car). My Black/Yellow crank wire was also spiking
  10. Don't mind the disgusting tack weld, that will be ground down before paint. Pics hopefully show what I'm working with. I lose the vent-tee on the filler neck, but something can be fab'd I believe.
  11. I was able to make the camaro filler neck work. I cut the 60ish degree bend off, and re-welded the nipple to the straight end of the pipe. I removed the datsun filler neck completely and used an exhaust flange to tack the camaro filler neck in place. The bolt hole arrangement of the exhaust flange was the exact same as the original datsun hole placement. I'll take some pics and upload when able, but it looks like it's going to work out nicely. Just need a 1x1" 90 degree hose barb coupler and some 1" and 1.25" fuel hose to finish it off.
  12. Thanks! It's nice to check things off the seemingly never ending list. The input is pretty high on the tank. I just purchased a stock Camaro filler and I'm going to try to make that work once it shows up. Other posts said it's OD matches the ID of the Datsun fill neck. I'm hoping that's the case and it goes somewhat smoothly.
  13. I finally have my 73 back in the garage after 5 years and I'm finding little things like my door handles, locks, etc are missing. The car was painted when my uncle had it and he unfortunately passed so I can't ask where those things are located. To my question... Does anybody know where to source the actuator rod that connects to the exterior door handle? I found my passenger side in the bottom of the door panel, but I'm assuming my driver's side stayed attached to the handle that is unfortunately missing. I've attached a picture for reference. Thanks
  14. I finally finished installing my 99-02 Camaro plastic fuel tank into my 73' this week. I used 2x1" rectangular 1/8" tubing and a 3/4" bushing for the strap hold-downs. Welds aren't pretty, but they are solid and work. I think I spent a total of about $20 n the steel, $15 for the straps, $60 for the tank, and $80 for the pump. I'm posting this to hopefully help somebody else out as the other posts on this topic have good info, but dead picture links.
  15. I second this, if anyone has the photos. Doug
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