Butters

well went to the junk yard today and told the guy witch diff i wanted. he told me that i could not have that one. so i told him i wanted to look at the diff from the blue 300 ( in the pics above) & asked to pull the cover off. i know it was a open anyways but. found it was a 3.90 ratio and its a 12 mm bolt carrier. so i'll jsut do my lsd swap later. but i do have one thing to ask now... on this k r180 pic (thanks to jmortensen sticky) what is the purpose of the center peice between the gears???? i did not see a K on my diff housing so i jsut thinks its a r-200.

ok that one had a smooth cover. but i thought i read some where in the sticky some where deep into the conversation. i found there was a guy that had a lsd that had a smooth cover ?? or did i jsut read it wrong. i'll go hunting again & again & again....oh and again did i mention again??

i did use much effort at all jacking up the car i had a forklift

ok this one i think dose not have the drive line hooked up. but i was laying upside down so i might be backwards lol. i'll check sat after i get it out.

glad my phone is bad ass enough to get the updates from here lol. cuz i was looking out there and started to look on the hoods that were there and around the firewall. thank you i did not know those tags were there! i have only delt with s30 so ya..... ok the blue one had a open rear(86) as per the end cuz if i'm corret(& most the time i'm not on this kinda stuff) if you turn one wheel clock wise, the other wheel should turn counter clock wise. then still turning one wheel clock wise, then hold the other will still. only 1 wheel should spin. but there is one car that showed up today lucky and it was the kouki but its a 10-86 so that makes it a 87 right. cuz don't the year split for cars. aren't they 6or7?? or is it earier then that?? so i tested the diff by spinning one wheel clock wise. low and behold the other wheel spun counter. but i did set on wheel on the gound and tried to turn the one that was up in the air. IT DID NOT SPIN. sooo dose that mean its a lsd ????? I could not get to the 240 to check them so i have no clue on them

i would have not asked this if there were tags on the engine bay they were removed for some odd reason. maybe i should of mention this in the begging. sorry about that. but so that blue on is the one. cool that helps alot. but i'[m going to get that one and the one from the 40sx. but yes i do know i still need to research the years for the ratio. thank you guys again. atleast i do not have to drop every diff to find the one i won't but i might have to jsut to find the ratio...........

I need some help getting year models of these 300zx, 300zxt, & 240sx. I need to know the year so i can get the diff for my car. Thanks for you time

i know this is off the subject but a guy sonic tested my block that was already bored .20 he said that i have .25 walls.

what did you find that was wrong i haev been haveing the same problem with mine i think i jsut replaced the head gasket and the front structure since it was leaking. i think i got mine off to since my timming was around 50 ish that jsut guessing. since its about 3 in. from the bottom of the timming tab

So if your moving the engine back what about the transmission ears? I have been thinking about moving mine back but can't find anything about relocating them and makeing them stronger?

OK. Still have not found anything that can turn the brake light on. everything is wired up like its suposed to. So I just pulled the bulb out and it started running better but that dose not mean much it is still bucking back and forth. Kinda feels like its contacting and then not contacting some thing in the tps but i'm a cat specialises. so when it comes to spark i have no clue? I'm so lost Maybe this is the same problem i was having when i first got the car (Paul). But how knows? Like today when i was driveing the car to get an inspection sticker. i only acted up after sitting at a stop light. it felt like it was loading up jsut sitting there. Then when crusing, it only bucked back and forth a little bit. But when you stood on the gas pedal, it acted like nother ever happend.

So why dose the ecm light come on with the brake warning light? I gave the ecm its own switched and constant power source along with grounds. Maybe the pictures will make things more clear i'll even try to get a video to help out. OH hell looks like I said that before guess i'll have to do it today.

No. It has nothing to do with the brake fuild level. Unless it only turns on the brake light in the speedo, when you rev the engine past 3 thousand??

Here is one for the books. I have a problem with my brake warning light staying on after the engine revs to 3 grand or so. After it hit that point in a rev the light truns on and will not turn off. I have spend 3 days now trying to figure it out. I havbe just finish my turbo swap. you can shut off the car and start it back up and the light stays off but as soon as you rev it, that damn little light comes on and stairs at me. Also have noticed that the ecm light is comeing on and staying on when the brake warning light comes on. I know its not the brake or the e-brake since it is unplug. so what could make the light do this on a rev. Other then that my car runs great. I'll get some pictures for better clearity of how the ecm is wired up if it is that or if it was something i did? I do know when I was trying to figure out my turn signals that when you add power to the flash to get the blinkers to work. the brake light was blinking instead of the lights front and rear of the car?

i have been seraching for days now and can't not find any thing on what coolant snesor the ecm read i have a 280zt with a jim wolf computer. i know there are 3 coolant sensors, one on the side of the block in the coolant hose that runs to the heater core. the other 2 are in the thermostat housing. i'm trying to finish my swap and i can start the car but do not have any of the coolant snesor hooked up and need to know witch one it is so i can wire it to the ECM. i do know that one of the coolatn sensors in the theremostat housing is for the guage. it was replaced with a autometer guage. for all i know the ECM is only going to run in cold mode. just need it to get out of cold mode since i live in west texas and it hot here right now. gas is like 4.00. can't be jsut wasting like its noting any more so could any one please help me out.

why don't you use the bw t-5. you can always beef it up to like a tremec. then you would never have to wrrie about it. do not forget the short throw shifter. i have a steeda triax. its so nice and smooth.

will do but its going to be like 3 months hope you can wait that long because i'm going to drop my motor in a 76 280z like you did with a 240 jsut hope i don't have issues with the tranny damn ford bw t-5. but i will and keep you updated after i get it running jsut hope i can get it done faster i need a gas saving turbo hot rod hehe to go back and forth to work in but i think i'm going to go over board with this swap every one i know of on here that has said any thing about swaping the motor to a s30 gen car spliced in to the orignal harness and did it that way. i'm going to stipo out the zx and complete harnes fucse block and what not and drop in the 280z hope that works out ok?????

crap forgot to tell you jsm that is the wrong temp sensor i need the one on the side of the block like the one what is right above my starter in my pic (p1010030)

thats what they told me i called nissan.unless there looking at the wrong part witch it too common i have that same problem at work getting the wrong part. i wish i could garger my car i live in an apartment and do not have any way to lock her up. unless i drive to a friends house like 10 miles away. witch, i'm not walking that far just to park my car. i love my car to death but damn, that is just not right so she can be safe. so the time being i'm only going to work on her on the weekends and get my other 76 280z ready to the transplant. i'm not looking forward to jsut working on her on the weekends or transplanting the whole drive train. and all the harness. i'm going to try to transplant the whole zx harness fuse block and what not if i can with i know is going to be a task. but i'm dead set on screw trying to splice in to that 280z harness