CU Zcar

Yea I would have, I'll be checking everything before I try to change anything...washers in correct places (though I'm quite sure of that anyway), bearings fully seated, no crud behind the races...etc. Thanks!

Makes sense. I guess the better question is, are the al/delrin bushings easier to do it to, I've always had a hard time getting the rubber or urethane bushings to squish enough to get the nut on the end of the t/c rod. Shimming seems to me would make it even more difficult. The mod is cheap and my car does dart a bit under braking (may be a different problem) so I'll probably do that mod anyway, along with some camber bushings. Thanks all for the response.

Maybe a case of "your mileage may vary"? Or maybe it's one of those things where way back when, someone's set wore out really fast and it's just been passed down that they wear out quickly... Anyway I'm getting the feeling that I don't have to worry much about these things wearing out in the timeframe I'm considering, but... Can you shim the aluminum/delrin T/C bushings to gain caster?

I think it was pointed out that the 432 head won't bolt onto an L-series motor. In fact I think that was an S20 engine. http://zhome.com/History/432Z.htm There was an aftermarket DOHC head made for L-series (OS Giken) but they're out of production and never coming back, according to people who have tried to talk to the company. There is an off chance you could find a used one but I'd think they're worth their weight in gold, and you'd probably have to find it in Japan. (?) In that thread I linked to above, it was found that the RB20 cylinder head has the same cylinder spacing (it was pictured with an L6 head gasket lining up), you'd have to get oil and water to it and find a different crank timing belt gear but turbobluestreak is already working on that one

I haven't even installed the carrier yet, only the pinion, and when I checked the torque required to turn the pinion I knew I was already in trouble (it's something like several ft-lb, rather than the 10 in-lb spec). I do have a FSM, just not all the measurement tools it describes using. I also don't have my own press I had gone over to use a friend's. Well, I'll probably call around to the various 4x4 and drivetrain shops and see if I can find someone who will do it for a price I like, otherwise I might pull it back apart myself and see if I can't thin out the pinion adjusting washer some (or guess at the correct thickness and buy one). I might check the gear contact pattern first to see if that's also way outta whack, though at this point the diff is near worthless to me anyway (I can't see anyone buying a taken-apart R200 for much $, except maybe the carrier itself...and that won't be hurt by my screwing with this stuff) I might just throw it all together. A friend of mine with a V8 280Z did this once, never got his gears set up and they whined but it lasted quite a long time for him anyway. Thanks for the help so far.

Thanks for the link but I already read that one, it's more pertaining to the mod where you move the lower control arm pivot. I'm not interested in this modification because I think it would place me outside Street Prepared and SM2 classes (which require "original attachment points"). [edit] I was looking at Ground Control's page and noticed they listed their "Front Bump Steer Spacers" as not legal for I.T. or S.P. Is that true? I guess it moves the factory mount points too...?[/edit] I also know about Mikelly's t/c rods but I can get the t/c aluminum-delrin bushing kit from Courtesy Nissan for $30 if they'll allow me to add caster I'll go for them, for now; like I said, eventually I'll go for all the nice stuff. I learned as much from reading as many archived posts as I could. My question was do they "correct" excessive negative camber change (which in my case would make my situation worse) or do they correct positive camber change (which I would find beneficial to me). If the camber bushings just go out of adjustment, I can deal...I've read of a few ways to tame that. I thought though that I'd read a few posts about those bushings also developing some slop in them after a relatively short time, compared with regular urethane bushings, which was why I was asking. Perhaps I was mistaken and those posts were about the t/c rod bushings I'm talking about. Anyone else have any comments as to how long these various bushings last? BTW thanks for the input so far.

There aren't any crossflow or DOHC heads for the L6 motor, at least not currently. You probably saw this thread: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=20564 Seems like trying to find that "magical" DOHC head that will bolt onto the stock L6 bottom end is a hot topic lately (or is it just cause I'm checking the forum more often during summer? ). If you want to be the fastest N/A Zcar, and I assume you mean 1/4 times, I can think of one in the 11's (or 12's? can't remember) running dual SU carbs...a guy named Norm, dunno if he's the "Norm" on this forum but I remember back on Zcar.com it was part of his screenname beating that N/A is a tall order but clearly building a wickedly fast Z is not impossible. BTW I'd be interested to know how much faster people have gotten N/A. That way I can feel bad when I'm turbo and several seconds behind still, hehe.

I got in a little too deep with replacing my LSD R200's bearings, I got to torquing the pinion in and the preload is waaaaay high. Now I'm trying to find a shop to set it up/get the shims right for me. A friend recommended a mechanic who recommended an ex-Nissan mechanic who does work for "race teams" and quoted me $400-600 to correctly shim my differential. Obviously, I'd do better to find a useable used diff. Have any of you ever found places that will set up a diff for something like $100-200? I'm thinking of trying some 4x4 shops or something before resigning to guess&check the thing together myself. Thanks,

Who are you buying your bearing kit through? I assume NTN is the manufacturer...can you buy direct like that? When I rebuilt my FS5W71B the only kit I found was from a reseller (drivetrain.com...I think they were SKF bearings), but then neither did I look very hard beyond the 'net.

Most people's gripe with viscous units (in terms of operation) is that you have to get a wheel spinning before the differential will begin to transfer power to both wheels, whereas a clutch-type unit essentially starts out powering both wheels and lets one go when the difference in torque between the two wheels meets the clutch pack's preload value. At least that's how I understand it (viscous information coming from Miata and DSM AWD owners, clutch pack info coming from my memory of reading posts/websites on the matter)...correct if I'm wrong!

Got a few questions...first off, I have a 1978 280 with Tokico 1" drop springs and shocks and urethane bushings. I was sad to find that my car still has next to no camber (about -0.5 degree and even less on other wheel) after the height drop, since the mods were done primarily for autocrossing. After a year of plowing around I'm ready to do a little more to the suspension, but not ready to go to caster/camber plates and coilovers yet. So... 1) If I get the t/c rod aluminum/delrin bushings, will they allow me to add some caster (via shimming I'd suppose)? I understand they won't last long, but if they'll get me through a year or two, then I'll have a "real" job anyway and can afford something better at that point. 2) I read that the "bumpsteer" or strut spacers (sold by Nismo or Vic. Brit, etc) are supposed to correct the camber curve, are they referring to fixing excessive negative camber or positive camber? Since I want more neg. camber, do I want these spacers or not? I don't experience bump steer problems (or don't notice) so I'd only get them if they'll benefit my camber situation. 3) I'm also considering offset camber bushings. When some of you describe them as "not lasting long," how soon will they wear out? See my above comment on how long I care about them lasting... I'd also consider slotting my strut tower mount holes but I'd rather not. Any/all input will be appreciated FYI I'm also wanting to team these mods with the shorter steering knuckles and probably a smaller steering wheel, currently using stock one and some people tell me that a smaller diameter would help out a lot as well.

Get us some pics

I've always loved Falken tires. The Azenis Sport is their stickiest tire (what I currently have), but there aren't many sizes available, closest to what you want is 215/45/16. The Ziex 512 (which I assume is similar to the old 502, which I had a set of) should be a less stiff and less sticky dry tire but much better in wet. I found the old 502's to be a fine street tire. Depends on what you want to do with the car, those Falkens I mentioned or Kumho 711's or 712's are great budget tires, you can move up to more expensive BFG KD or KDW tires for more $$. There's obviously lots others out there too...I have a friend who has lots of fun with his Yokohama AVS ES100's as an autocross tire, though they're nowhere near as fast as a race tire. He got them so they'd last a while and give him some more feel as to what suspension setup changes did to the car's handling. Another friend had both the ES100's and FM901's, I think he said the ES100's were a little grippier.

Gotcha. In the case of dropping in a big-power V8 I would say structural integrity is doubly important Be relentless in looking for the rust, if you find some that doesn't completely discourage you from buying the car, at least use it as a bargaining point. Good luck! This car has a plus of having the R200 in it at least...it should hold up better in the long run and it's already set up for a 300ZXT LSD, if you can find one.

I'd figured he meant the whole engine?

Oh, well if he's running the engine with carb's there should have been very little butchering of the car to swap the engine. The round top carbs are a plus (vs. square top) from what I understand, easier to adjust. The fuel breather issue is probably one you'd deal with on any 240 then, since he most likely didn't modify the fuel system at all, it's just old. In your position, I would then base my decision to buy based on the condition of the body (RUST!!!), and trust that you can handle anything mechanical that happens. I'd buy a rust-free bare shell over a car with flawless mechanicals but holes in the floor, frame rails, rockers, fenders, etc. Or better yet, buy both, and put the good mechanicals in the good body But that's just me. The rust in my car nags at the back of my mind whenever I make plans for the car. BTW that fuel tank problem IS something that should be fixed, gas fumes anywhere are dangerous. I don't know how tough a fix that one is, maybe look into it. [edit] one more thing to think about, I doubt you'll ever kick yourself too hard for passing up a deal, but you'll probably hate if you find yourself stuck with a car you wish you hadn't bought. If there's a doubt in your mind, I'd wait.

Also make sure the fuel tank and fuel supply/return lines were modified/swapped in a safe manner, and that the fuel pump is secure. I suppose you could also check to see if the FI harness has a fuse/fusible link/whatever (I'm a little embarrassed, I have a FI car and don't know how this is handled stock...I know my ZX Turbo harness has a fusible link though). Was the car you're looking at converted to electronic ignition too? I don't know how the N/A ZX cars worked, just wondering if they have a separate ignition box like my 78 280Z. That may have made a later 280Z tachometer necessary (?), I know there's some difference between 240 and 280 tachs. One last thing, if there's not a grommet at the firewall you'll want to add one so the wires don't have the insulation chafed off, since the prev. owner would have had to cut a hole for the wiring harness. Oh and I just had a thought, did he even swap the FI harness or is he running the 81 engine with the 240 carbs?

http://www.household-hazwaste.org/ Those people might be able to help you, they list an Oakland drop-off location. BTW I found some one page (St. Louis based) that said you can mix oil and brake fluid, several others that said don't, and one so far (Maine) that says don't mix antifreeze and brake fluid.

I also think you're right on not mixing brake fluid with oil, antifreeze contains (or is, or is made from...something like that ) glycol, and brake fluid is/has/comes from polyglycol. I think I've usually just let mine sit around in the bottles I collect it in...some day I'll have to find some place to take it. If someplace would take antifreeze, maybe you could mix the brake fluid with that? [edit] BTW don't mix antifreeze and brake fluid.

Check out http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=20564 5pg thread on a project to produce a DOHC L-series head. Mentioned a few times was the O.S. Giken DOHC head which I think had hemispherical chambers, but you won't find one, and if you do you probably won't be able to afford it and they're long out of production. Also mentioned was a special Japanese model of the early Z, the 432, which had a DOHC head (some details are available here) but that's not, strictly speaking, a DOHC hemi head for our L-series 6, it was on a different engine (the S20) and someone pointed out in the above thread that it won't work on an L-series.

Yea, sorry for hijacking the thread...your question is still unanswered, so I'll give it a 'bump'. BTW for anyone who cared, the exact camera my friend uses is a Nikon 995.

If you mean converting to a Manifold Air Pressure sensor-based injection system, i.e. no flapper AFM or hotwire MAF, then you'll have to go with an aftermarket fuel management system (like SDS, Haltech, Microtech, etc). That involves installing the new system's wiring harness and then tuning it with a fuel curve that matches what your engine needs. I haven't done this (too much $ for me for the time being) but plenty of people here have.

I think it's a Nikon Coolpix camera, one of the ones that has a lens section that rotates separate from the section with the screen (kind of like this one). It was pretty expensive, the one I linked to lists for $600 now, his might have been somewhat less but ??. Good cameras cost money

He's over there on a trip put together by one of the Japanese-language teachers at Clemson with a group of other students. And yea, he takes great pics wish I had the dedication to tote my digicam everywhere I went.

Excerpt from my 1978 manual: The air regulator bypassses the throttle valve to control the quantity of air for increasing the engine idling speed when starting the engine at an underhood temperature of below 80degrees C (176degrees F). A bimetal and a heater are built into the air regulator. When the ignition switch is turned to the START position or engine running, electric current flows through the heater, and the bimetal, as it is heated by the heater, begins to move and closes the air passage in a few minutes. The air passage remains closed until the engine is stopped and the underhood air temperature drops to below 80degrees C (176degrees F). Here's a pic of that section, and the valve I think you're talking about. Dunno about the valve cover breather, I've seen plenty of people put little filters on that breather but I've noticed that my idle drops a little when I un-seal the engine (i.e. open the oil cap, dipstick, or valve cover breather).