Xnke
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Posts posted by Xnke
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If the shank of the bolt is 9mm, you have 9mm rods. Either way, you'll need to get the rods resized with the different rod bolts.
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Get it on a dyno and I bet your eyes go wide.
It probably is making GOOD power throughout the band-it's just that the cams, header, and intake all come into sync starting at about 5000RPM and all pull together to about 7800RPM.
Tried to tell ya early on about big cams, ITBs, and tuned length headers, but now you got the first-hand grins. My Apologies for the addiction, it never gets better. I bet every time you get in the driver's seat and turn the key you just have to give it a 5000RPM flick just because you can.
Now, when you get a chance to put together a higher compression stroker (say, 10.5:1 with the current cams and that compact chamber) of 3.0L or so...You'll be rolling into the throttle in 2nd rather than shift up just for the sound and the big pull!
How is the tuning going? Any tough spots that don't seem to want to smooth out or places that feel like they randomly go rich/lean?
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Copper lines are legal in Germany?!
Cupronickel, sure but not pure copper...Copper work hardens and cracks, while cupronickel doesn't.
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Exhaust wheel is OK size, but the compressor is much to small. it is not at all safe to run without a wastegate on an engine with an RPM range like The L28...nonwastegated turbos are generally used on engines that operate at a fixed speed and constant load.
If you just run with the compressor maxed out all the time you'll be killing power in the exhaust, and creating huge amounts of heat from the overspun compressor. Not to mention the fatigue life of the compressor shaft...
Keep the turbo, as it's a decent usable core for a low-HP build but get as bigger compressor section and put on it.
The TA31 turbine wheel is often called a "stage 3" turbine wheel, you could have the stock wastegated housing bored to fit the bigger wheel and that would take care of any wear from the stock turbine rubbing.
Then, find and fit a T04B/T04E compressor, you're looking at diesels in the 6.0L area for those.
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hey Xnke.
Do you mean that as the RPM rises, the boost diminishes cause the engine breathes in so much air that the turbine can't give enough to maintain high boost? Would that be possible between 3800 and 4500 only (not even 1000 rpm, for a very significant drop in boost)?
thanks!
Yes, exactly that.
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Stock compressor wheel can't keep up the pressure-so by the time he was at peak HP the boost pressure had fallen off from where it was at peak torque.
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So it's not the OBX brand, but it's the name of this "type" of LSD.
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Wow, haven't updated this thread in a long while.
Haven't driven the car much, it's developed some suicidal tendancies, problems like electric fan relays rusting up and not turning the fans on and the like.
That and completely bald rear tires that need to be replaced...at 9lbs of boost it was plenty of fun.
Now it's time to work on the NVH problems...mostly the incredibly intolerable whine of the supercharger, and fitting a complete interior. Right now, I'd never want to drive this more than an hour at a time...I'd be deaf by the time I got anywhere.
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There are photos of TonyD's centrifugal supercharged Z on this site. I believe it's a Paxton unit.
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Which six-speed are you looking at? CD009?
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They can be flat on the bottom. Most of the aftermarket ones are and are ground to thickness.
They need to be hardened to 50-53RC. Hardness needs to be tightly controlled.
Yep, I've made some. It's cheaper to buy them.
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That's about 9 degees C/20 degrees F hotter than most of my L28's have run on the street without a fill, but it's not hot enough to be an issue....only about 180F. Really isn't hot enough to get the water vapor boiled out either.
Sustained 5000RPM usage (approximately 5 minutes at fairly constant 85% throttle, 5000-6000RPM) brought oil temps up over 200F in about three minutes before leveling off at 210F. Testing continued until the tires lacked the ability to load the engine properly. No oil cooler was fitted at the time.
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How much has the header moved after a few heat cycles?
The intake noise is awesome. It sounds really smooth too, especially for a "rough start". Can't way to see a plug read and some more tuning!
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I'm thinking there are at least two versions of the LD28 block, as I've seen dry-linered blocks in diesel shops before. The bores were cut a lot bigger than 84.5mm, then dry-sleeved back to 84.5mm with thick sleeves.
I tried to buy a few of those blocks but was unable to get the diesel shop to sell them. I then got two from maximas and they were bored to 86ish mm and hit water at the bottom of the bore. They may have simply been corroded badly too.
I had a plan using the LD28 block, an offset-ground LD28 crankshaft, and 4G63 rods hung on a custom piston (may have been a stock piston for a different application, I'd have to look again) that gave a 3.3L block with what I considered at the time to be desirable properties. If I could get an LD block to go 89mm, I could probably work in even more stroke...maybe even 88 or 89x90.
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Make sure you watch your oil temperatures with a half-filled block.
Oil temps will go up, sometimes dramatically. You don't have the oil getting cooled by splashing up against the bottom of the water jacket anymore. I would recommend planning for an oil cooler, complete with oil thermostat.
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If you somehow find it in a finished state when you get up then we can finally say that this build has consumed you enough to where your even started sleep wrenching.
It will be a momentous occasion when this thing is finally running. I am just going to take the day off work and play the video on repeat all day.
Sleep wrenching is dangerous. That's how you wind up with a truck engine rebuild that was supposed to be a stock 2.8L crank swap and a freshen up that turns into a blown, 3.4L stroker, aluminum-headed, fuel-injected monstrosity that won't fit under the hood.
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We do have a member here with the previous generation of this engine in their Z already. I'd PM Six_Shooter and ask for a look at his engine mounts...
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TD05-What?
The TD05 designates the frame and exhaust turbine sizing, but we have no information on the compressor side of that turbo to help you with.
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They're in storage right now, I'd have to drive an hour to go get them. After cutting two into the jacket I quit, but I have seen them set up with dry liners in diesel shops here.
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Not all LD28 blocks can be bored that big. I have two here that are into the water jacket at 86mm.
I'd love to get my hands on 8 or 10 88mm bore-able LD28 blocks.
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Putting the zorst on the passenger side means running the exhaust right overtop the oil filter.
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The E is the 5 speed that was fitted behind the VG30E and VG33ER in (some) Nissan Frontier pickup trucks, the only changes are internal. All of the gear teeth are wider and the midplate is thicker, which allowed me to fit almost double the bearings into mine.
Yes, the E will bolt up in the same method. You can not modify an "A" bellhousing to fit, you must use a "B" or "C" bellhousing (both exist for the L6)
I would definitely be on the lookout for a diesel transmission, as they had cast steel front bearing plates instead of the alloy ones that the rest of the transmissions got. They are not spectacularly easy to find these days.
If you ask me, I'd not run anything less than a Z32 transmission if I was going to upgrade. It's not that much extra work and it's pretty much on par with all the other transmissions as far as "work needed to make it fit" so best to do it once and call it a day.
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It's got a 2.5" stub on it at Derek's request, but ideally a 2.5 to 3" cone about 4" long would be welded directly onto the end of the collector. It's all there for when it's needed.
This header is just a prototype, I gave up on the jigging when I learned that there was a major revision to the Gen2 head.
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Looks like MS II will drive six coils. You just need more BIP's. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/using_bosch_bip373s_with_megasquirt.htm
Sequential injection is pleasing to think about but apparently adds little above low RPM. The injectors can't squirt all of their fuel while the valves are open and air is flowing. The cylinders can't tell the difference. The SDS guys seem to know some stuff. http://www.sdsefi.com/techseq.htm
Wasted spark wastes its spark on the exhaust stroke. There's nothing in the cylinder to burn, and the exhaust valve is open anyway. No pressure or fuel available to cause a detonation.
Use the money saved on MS3-Pro to upgrade those other parts.
Sorry, just can't let the illogical pass by un-noted.
22 minutes? Are the manifolds left on, and the heads lifted just enough to slip the gaskets out and in? There must be a trick.
Nope, manifolds removed, but just lay in the car. exhaust stays on the car, timing chain is dropped with the blue plastic wedge type chain block. Head comes up, out of the car, both gasket faces cleaned and wiped down, new headgasket on and head back on. 22 minutes. We've done it "a few" times. The heatshield is not installed on the bottom of RedZedTurbo's intake manifold, and that helps a lot. When you have a stack of intake/exhaust and headgaskets that when pressed flat measure 2.75" thick, it really doesn't take much time to get those manifolds on and off. I don't think we timed re-filling the coolant in that though.
Personal best was on my 240Z, with the current header and intake on it I've done a headgasket job in a little over 8 minutes. Didn't want to keep my date waiting and she wanted a ride in the Z. She is probably the best "tool-hander" I've ever had, however she is an OR nurse so not surprising. That was when I was running the 9.7:1 CR N42 head with 9lbs of supercharger boost, took a few headgaskets before I swapped to the P90.
Modest L28et build turbo choice.
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Nope.
Nothin' to worry about except you will need to shim the cam towers up 20 thou, (silver seal sells the shims still)
The currently available shims are 20 thou thick so only one set of shims needed. Older shims were 15 thou so make sure you measure the ones you get to be sure-if you can shim up the total amount lost in the cam, then your cam timing is not adversely affected.