TomoHawk

You really need the hard ring to make it work. The rubber cover holds it in place, but the plastic or metal ring is the pivot, so the geometry is right, and the cable can pull the brakes and hold the car.

I'd like to see if we can find those elusive GTORR newsletters! Does anyone know who has them? I have a very good scanner, and I can easily scan them in color or B&W. Does anyone at least know the date of the first newsletter? thxZ

I looked at an Optima fan while looking for Sportages. It "looked" similar to the Datsun fan, IIRC, but you'd have to take it out to see for sure. Anyway, the mounting holes from the KIA fan (mine is from a 2007 Sportage) were not the same, but I think you just need to egg-out the holes slightly to make it work. Otherwise, the fan assembly was larger than the Datsun one, about an inch in overall diameter. How much of the fan box can you grind away? You gotta take the glovebox out to have enough room back there. BTW- While you're behind the glove box, I'd suggest you pull off all those firewall connector and treat the terminals to a good dose of Deoxit 100...

This is interesting... There are lots of KIAs in the junkyards (duh...) so these should be easier to find than the 1988-91 Civics. BUT.... if you want to order one that's new, you need to know which model of Sportage, such as LX, EX... Autoparts store kids only know what their computer will show- IF they know what to put into the computer entry screen in the first place.

Can it spin 8,000 RPM?

Think that 12 cylinder engine is wrong for the car, IMO. It's too big and too heavy. A lightweight 3 Litre V-8 with a short stroke would be more fitting, IMO, as it would be closer to the original specification.

Does it stioll exist? I was going to add mine, but I don't think the GTORR is still online, for obvious reasons.

Boranni got their modern (hub) design from Dayton... You might say Boranni and Dayton wheels are essentially the same, because the only real difference is where the spoke go through the rim.

After all the work you did, are you ready for people to tell you the car is a "fake" or a "Nissan kit car?" There are basically no armchair car enthusiasts that will appreciate a well-made anything, especially when they expect to see a $50 million car...

I had the same thoughts. I think it would help, but the slot would make a weak spot in the chassis, and you'll end up driving a red banana. I think reinforcing the frame in the area would be part of the job.

Here's something for you problem-solvers.... Car manufacturers start using VIN number in the mid-1950s, bur they were not standardized, even for any particular manufacturer, like Ferrari. So, besides the chassis' individual serial number, did these cars have some sort of VIN? I was able to find some bits of information: Chassis designations: 400 SA: 538 U 250 SWB/SWB Cal/GTO: 539 250 GT Lusso: 539 U Paint Code: Rosso Cina paint code: 20456 S So if you wanted to build a USA-style of a VIN, you could. OTOH, each GTO was personally sold by the dealer to the owner, and probably new the owner very well, and there were only the few cars made, so if you if you needed anything, you didn't have to enter the VIN (into computer) to get a part... But I'm still curious to see what there was at the time...

Here's a new thing that I'd like to do this summer.... The Zed bonnet had the louvers, and the GTO wings have the vent slots, so can we make some kind of vent slots in the back corners of the engine bay? I think I can get in there with a 11/2 inch hole saw and make two holes in a vertical line, then connect them for a slot. Would that be a problem with the stock L28 engine? You wouldn't want to end up with a banana car. Otherwise, I'll have to rig up a kind of spacer to hold the bonnet open about 3 inches, so the hot air can get out while parked or idling; the open bonnet seems to attract attention.

I suppose you never saw a certain Interet add for an air bag-jack that is inflated by exhaust?

al the trophy shops in my area are only able to engrave flat things like trophy plaques and medalions. The best the could do for me is to engrave a metal disc and I would have to glue it to the wheel nut, which might even look like the Boranni nut. Getting the disk machined is another tall hurdle, unless you have the CNC codes to do the work. There aren't any small shops either- all the older guys that worked from the home shops are out-of-business or retired.

One thing that got lost during the conversion is the air coming from the lower (foot) vents. As far as I can tell, the air comes from a 'scoop' that's part of the lower front wheel splash guard. The air pressurizes the area inside the front fender and then flows through a passage to the lower vents. When you remove the front bodywork, you remove the air scoop and the large duct formed by the fender & splash guard, so you no longer get the forced air. The 240Z didn't have the air scoop at the lower part of the front fender, so they added the plastic elbows from the radiator support to the fender area. I used my shop vac to blow are into the lower vent and searched to see if the air came out somewhere, like the windscreen wiper linkage area, but that is for the intake of fresh air to the ventilation/heater system. If I ha done this before permanently fixing the front bodywork, I would have provided another air path, like a 1-inch hose from somewhere near the nose.The exact place where the air get to the lower vents would be nice to know.... So my question is, how can you get air to the lower vents? A long hose from the brake cooling intake holes? Air scoops on the sides by the engine vents? It would also be nice to have some forced air into the upper (dash) vents, but that is easily done by adding the hood scoops and short ducting, like you are familiar with.