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Miles last won the day on June 24

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About Miles

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    Sacramento, CA

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  1. Try starting the car with the wire to the oil pressure sensor disconnected from the sensor and observe the oil pressure gauge. With the engine running and the wire removed from the sensor what does oil pressure gauge do?
  2. If you can block the engine up, pull the transmission (leaving the bell housing on the engine) and loosen all of the clamps that hold the fuel line in the tunnel you may be able to move the fuel enough to cut that group of fittings off. Then you can install a A-N hose fitting to hard line adapter on the fuel line. You will have to teach yourself how to make up a SS braided hose ends (fittings). The other problem you have is that the transmission is actually riding against the fuel line. The PO cut a piece of the transmission out to clear the fuel line. You will need to address this by re-routing the fuel line away from the transmission.
  3. I don't want to scare you, but that first 240Z V8 project I mentioned above was so FUBARed up by the previous owner that we ended up pulling it completely apart (shell) and started over. The only part we kept was the engine.
  4. You can also use Microsoft Paint. Open the picture in Paint and select Resize. A picture can be resized between 1% to100% up or down.
  5. I didn't see this before I had coffee. It could kill you. So re-engineer your fuel line routing before driving this car. Suggest that you post pictures of the fuel tank to fuel pump to fuel line and include showing how the fuel pump is wired. In other words all of the fuel related equipment, wires, pump etc back by the fuel tank. I now suspect there may be problems in how the fuel system was built from the tank forward.
  6. By the way, did the previous owner install an oil pressure sensing fuel pump cut off switch. In case of a crash you want the electric fuel pump to stop pumping gas. The oil pressure safety switch senses when oil pressure goes to zero and shuts off the fuel pump. Basically, power for the fuel pump runs through the switch to a fuel pump relay (recommended) to the fuel pump. When the engine is running oil pressure rises and closes the switch energizing a relay that closes and switches 12 volts to the fuel pump. Without the relay, the oil pressure safety switch has to carry the amperage load demanded by the fuel pump which sometimes burns out he switch. Also, the fuel pump is most efficient when it receives a full 12 volts. Painless sells a very nice fuel pump relay harness that can be connected and triggered by the oil pressure safety switch. See picture below. There are alternate install locations and methods to cut off the fuel pump. Recommend that you purchase the Jags that Run Datsun Z V8 Conversion Manual and memorize it. The manual explains how to build a safe V8 Z car.
  7. Captainkim There are several solutions to your problem. None of them include a rubber hose (they crack and leak), cutting a hole, or putting weld goop on a fuel fitting. The solutions do include relocating where the fuel line ends up in the engine bay, proper fuel lines and fittings that make for a safe and reliable fuel system. The previous owner of my first 240Z V8 also cut the fuel line just behind the firewall and then ran a rubber hose to the carb. The hose cracked and leaked. I replaced the hose once and it also cracked and leaked. The cut portion of the fuel line was down in the trans tunnel like yours and impossible to get to. What to do? I ran a new fuel line all the way from the tank to the original stock location on the passenger frame rail, added a filter and pressure gauge and all was well. On my second 240Z V8 project I kept the stock fuel line location on the passenger side frame rail, added a filter and pressure gauge. See pictures below. Options: 1. Cut the collection of brass fittings off the fuel hard line and install a A-N to hardline adapter into which you screw in a A-N hose fitting. Then you run a flex line along the passenger side frame rail with A-N hose fittings on each end to the approx location of the original stock fuel line. This line will connect to your regulator and pressure gauge and then to the carb. The flex line must be anchored to the car with rubber clamps along its route to the carb. When you cut the fuel line where the fittings are, use a tubing cutter and make sure that the cut is perfectly square with the tubing i.e., not an angle. De-burr the cut with a fine file and then slide on the A-N hose to hard line adapter. To do this fix you will need to learn how to select and install A-N fittings. There are many videos available that show how to cut SS flex hose and install A-N fittings. This is expensive, but you fuel system will be leak free and will out live you. 2. You could run a new hard line all the way from the fuel pump to the stock location on the passenger side frame rail. From the hard line run a SS flex line with A-N fittings to the carb. Note: if you are not comfortable with A-N fittings you can use standard hose clamps on the SS flex line. In this case you would use push on type nipples on each device that needs a hose connected to it. Recommendation: Take some time and look at all of the options before cutting or modifying your car. At a minimum, to do the job correctly, you will need to secure your car on jack stands and pull the transmission and driveline in order to re-work the kluge* the previous owner created. * kluge = a mass of IL-fitting parts forming a disgusting whole.
  8. Here is a handy carb calculator: http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/CarbCFMCalc.html
  9. CalZ was just pointing out a fact - this is a Datsun site with a mix of Ford, Chevy, racers, etc members.
  10. While Hybridz has a lot of good information from some very gifted mechanics/builders, I have found over the years that I needed to augment Hybridz searches with other automotive web sites. I reasoned that my hybrid 240z with Chevy engine, and parts from other Japanese cars, was really just another hot rod with issues that all hot rodders run into. So I started looking at hot rod, Corvette, Camaro, Toyota, 240SX, Nismo etc websites for ideas and information. For example, My Holley 570 Street Avenger carb was indicating a stumble and lean sag at low speed cruise. I found the solution on a hot rod website. I have also purchased or down loaded manuals, manufacturer instructions, factory service manuals etc for every component used in my build project. Many of the manufacturers supplement their installation manuals with videos on YouTube.
  11. Can you confirm that you have the correct rotor? Could you post a picture showing the rotor alignment inside the caliper?
  12. 1. Replace the booster. Before installing the booster, glue the reaction disk in place. Hold the booster so the push rod is pointing up to minimize dropping the reaction disk inside. 2. Install the booster. 2. Adjust booster to MC push rod to the correct length. The reaction disk is glued in place so no worry about loosing it. You can fine tune the length after the MC is installed. 3. Bench bleed the MC. See various threads on bench bleeding. Take your time and remove all of the fine bubbles. 4. Re-install the MC. 5. Bleed the brakes.
  13. Cardone used to offer a MC rebuilding service through O'reilleys Auto Parts. You take the MC (has to be rebuildable) to O'reilleys and they send it to Cardone for the rebuild. Seem to recall that it took about 2 - 3 weeks.
  14. That's the administrator's job.
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