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Miles

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Miles last won the day on September 6

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About Miles

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    Sacramento, CA

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  1. This is the cooling system I came up with for my SBC 350 240z. It keeps the temp gauge exactly centered (approx 185 deg F) on hot (109 deg) California days even during long stops. The shroud plus the Volvo fan did the trick.
  2. Buy this book it will save you hours and hours researching 240z restoration issues. How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car: How to Restore Datsun 240Z, 260Z and 280Z by Wick Humble https://www.amazon.com/How-Restore-Your-Datsun-Z-Car/dp/1931128022
  3. https://zcarsource.com/door-rod-outside-handle-240z-260z-280z
  4. Compared to the old worn out rubber bushings urethane noticeably improved handling. Much stiffer. Before replacing the steering rack bushings my car used to wander and track grooves in the road. All of the bushings fit. I did have a fitment problem with the Energy Suspension (ES) bushing metal inner sleeves that fit over the spindle pin for the rear outer control arm bushings . The ES inner sleeve was manufactured with the inside diameter too large resulting in a sloppy fit when slid over the spindle pin. I carefully measured the spindle pin and the inside diameter of the sleeves. I called ES and explained what I found and they admitted to a manufacturing problem and sent me new sleeves. The three things I did to improve handling of my daily driver: replacement of all bushings with urethane, stiffer springs that maintained stock ride height and Tokico shocks. The ride is stiffer, but not harsh or bone jarring. Just right for a sports car.
  5. I did mine 14 years ago and experienced the same confusion. I bought a spindle pin puller from an Hybridz member and then did the whole suspension. The only sleeves I didn't remove were for the mustache bar bushings. Some of the best posts about bushing replacement were made back in the early days of HybridZ.
  6. Wrong? How so? The original owners of Ztherapy were Z car freaks.
  7. Buy the Street Racing Suspensions video from Ztherapy. Shows how to install a complete polyurethane bushing kit. https://ztherapy.com/
  8. Here are some really big ones you can look at. https://www.zcar.com/threads/hacksaw-and-energy-suspension-bushing-installation.293838/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/12008-rear-control-arm-bushings/ https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-260z-280z-brakes-wheels-suspension-chassis-126/rear-control-arm-bushings-9279/
  9. Here are some posts from other Z car sites: https://www.zcar.com/threads/hacksaw-and-energy-suspension-bushing-installation.293838/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/12008-rear-control-arm-bushings/ https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-260z-280z-brakes-wheels-suspension-chassis-126/rear-control-arm-bushings-9279/
  10. Searching old posts will set you free. Do a search and then read posts in reverse order. Why because most 240z issues were resolved almost twenty years ago. Think of HybridZ as an encyclopedia. Turn the page......................
  11. Yep. Two of my Wilwood 1 in. MCs leaked internally right out of the box. The third one had damaged bleed screws. I ended up buying a 1979 280ZX MC from Arizona Z Cars.
  12. One of the problems with the stock stub axles is the mounting flange can become bent/warped. Not so much of a problem with drum brakes, but drove me nuts after I did the rear disk swap. One caliper got hot and the other caliper was barely warm. I finally set up a dial indicator and measured the face of the flange. Both flanges were warped so they would cause the rotor to rub on the brake pad. I tried having the flanges machined, but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up installing the stub axles from Chequered Flag Racing. No problems since then. I have also had a stock stub axle shaft break where the threads end (common) just pulling away from a stop sign when my Z was all stock. I see that MSA is selling "refurbished" stub axles.
  13. Try Chequered Flag Racing if you can't find good used axles. I had problems with used axles so I caved and bought these: http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html
  14. I do whenever the car is up on jack stands. Ok so far. I have seen that center mounting bolt pull out of the crossmember and cracked crossmenbers.
  15. "Also meant to say in last post will check the stub axle nut torque but wrote "gland nut" by accident." Torquing that nut beyond specs won't help unless the nut has actually loosened up. I torque mine to 180 ft lbs and quit. Be aware that the stock nut is staked down and turning the nut without removing the staked part with a Dremel grinder will destroy the threads on the axle. You can substitute a 280XZ nut which is self locking. The splines in the companion flange (connects half shaft to the axle) can become worn creating some slop, but not a clunk. Lock the wheel and move the half shaft to see if the splines are worn. There is always a bit of play. You should pull the differential and inspect for worn parts. Also check the three nuts (top of tower) for the insulators and the nut that attaches the shock to the insulator. All R180 and R200 differentials were a bit playful even when new and will clunk unless you engage the clutch smoothly. My junk yard R200 has clunked for the last 10 years. Check that the shock has no vertical play which could indicate the wrong shock, missing spacer or loose gland nut. Be careful around the threads that the gland nut screws into. If the threads get screwed up or the tube gets bent in the threaded area you will be looking for a new strut. Note that the spacer is unique to each manufacturers shock. The stock front differential mount flexes. I replaced mine with a solid mount (MSA) 20 years ago. No problems with a SBC 350 or you can do the Taylor mount. Example of cause of clunk in a R200 differential:
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