[What to do with distributor when running EDIS?]

You can make a block off plate to cover the hole. I have also seen a casting plug / freeze plug put in the hole. You hold onto the dist, never know when you may need it again.

[is there a good diagram for no relay board install]

If you bought the wiring harness with your megasquirt the wires are labeled, use the exact same wires the diagram shows like you have a relay box in the car. If that makes sense. Run the ignition wire and Fidle wire like the diagram shows for 2.2 board. Check out msefi.com for wiring up a 2.2 board. I have ms2 with a v3.0. Are you using one hei module or two?.

[is there a good diagram for no relay board install]

Mobys writeup is correct for ms1 with hei module. If you have the wiring diagram that came with your m.s unit, use that diagram and make your own relay setup. Cygnus has pics of his relay setup on here. I think the post is Wiring up megasquirt. Hope that helps.

[Damaged pulley - what are my options?]

The only reason you would have to re-hone the block would be if you installed new rings. You don't have to hone the block out again.

 

You should be able to tap the pistons up enough in each cylinder to remove the crank without pulling each piston out. Use rubber hose on the rod studs so the studs don't scratch the crank, when tapping the pistons back down onto the replacement crank. There is also a plastic sleeve protector to cover the rod studs, don't remember who sells them at this time. Sure some performance shop sells them in your town.

 

I have done the repair suggested earlier in an 87 toyota cressida, when I worked at a toyota dealership. It held up and worked with no issues, had the car for 3 more years before i sold it. It was my daily driver by the way.

[Damaged pulley - what are my options?]

I would try using a mini file to file down the high edge where the keyway mushroomed the crank.

 

First shot for me would be a new key and some jb-weld or some type of good quality metalbond. You still have a good side where that keyway slides in. The metal bond or jb-weld should be able to fill in the rounded out side of the crank. Install the keway and then add the metal bond to it. Wait a couple of days, and work on filing down the area smooth that was bonded. Install a new balancer and apply locktite to the crank bolt.

 

I thought that the keyway does that when the crank bolt is loose, causing the balancer to move side to side.

[MS-II Up and running with Video!]

Looks good Naviathan, Hopefully I will be where you are by the end of the month. I am shooting for Thanksgiving Weekend.