dexter72

How I did my Budget swap: Build thread is in the Toyota engine section. Wanted to show people they can do this swap for less than 5 Grand. Lol Bought a $150 or less, junkyard engine.. Ebay Manifolds, Ebay turbo, Steel braided fuel lines from a 4cyl, late 90's Saturn. Megasquirt 2 Stand alone. 36-1 trigger wheel, Ford EDIS 6 ignition. Replaced the engine bearings, honed the cylinders, replaced the rings, 3 angle valve job with valve seals. W-58 trans. Welded in engine mount brackets. Spacers for engine mounts. I parted out the L-28 Nat engine and trans that was in the car. Setup has been running fine for over 2 years now.. Fuel pump is going out right now so will replace it with a Bosch 044 unit when the summer temps here in Phoenix drop under 100 degrees. If you have any more questions feel free to message me...

Yes you can do that to save money. You just need to figure out how you want to run the engine once you get to that point. You have plenty of options on how you want to do and rebuild a 2J... You can do a Front Facing Intake on the Na 2J also, instead of the cross over intake.. You can just turbo the N/A and make it a Nat 2J You can put a GTE Head on an N/a block, so you can run the GTE intake and exhaust parts. I bought a Junkyard 2JZGE cheap, rebuilt it, and turbo'd it...

CXracing sells separate kits for the s30 on Ebay. 1J or 2J with an R-154 transmission. Around $500 bucks for both kits...

Brian, looks like your starting to get things figured out.

Yes you can, some oil will come out when you loosen the bolts. Not a lot though.. If you are removing the oil pump, Remove the distributor cap first and make a mark where the rotor is pointing. When you put the oil pump back in you may have to turn the oil pump shaft, to match the half moon tab at the bottom of the distributor. Make sure the rotor is pointing where you marked it when you put the pump in. If the distributor rotor moves you will cause the timing to be off. sometimes so much the engine won't start. Then you have to set up the distributor and oil pump timing which can be a pain. It is easier if you have another person watch the marked distributor rotor position, as the other person tries lining up the pump from underneath.

Ok, I think you need to find what your missing tooth wheel setting should be with the wasted spark setup. If needed you can always remake your sensor bracket.

Just tossing out some things.... Spark output should be going low.. Your wheel/sensor setting may be correct, i am using edis 6. Maybe check on that..

Brian, i know your ignition setup is different then mine but did you have 5-6 teeth before the missing tooth on your wheel ??.. I will have to check on that. Quick thought, How far away is your sensor from the wheel ??..

Try looking into late 80's Toyota Supras and Cressidas, N/A fuel injectors. I remember them being in the low 300cc range.. Not sure what fuel management system your planning on using. Maybe let us know what system your going to be using.. Ok just checked a supra site. The late 87-89 Supra Cressida, Light Green Injectors are High Impedance and are 315cc Injectors. They are top feed injectors so you will need a 10mm O-ring fuel rail.. Get the N/a Injector wire connectors also..

Do more research.. Guys are putting down 500-600 through the r-200s.. You need stronger axles for more power than that.. Just read as much as you can. Save the threads to your computer. So if you need to you can come back to them.. For example, I researched for months before doing my Nat-2j swap..

You need to fix that regulator or atleast put a pressure gauge inline so you know what the fuel pressure is... The maps are not going to be perfect, just pick a map that is close to your engines set up and input the settings into which tuning viewer you are using. They should be close, to get your engine started. You should read the tune your megasquirt section, so you know how to start tuning the engine without some of the other inputs adding fuel you don't want added. I like to suggest using starting fluid to help get the engine running, less of a chance of fouling your spark plugs with it.. Install a wide band setup if you have not done so.. Get the engine to run and idle before installing the wideband sensor.. You could ruin the sensor with too much fuel.. good luck

The L blocks are pretty tough and only show light signs of wear in cylinders. I had an L28 engine that had 250k miles on it.. I took it apart to replace the bearings and do a rebuild on it. Removed the bearing caps and they had no wear on the bearings, crankshaft, or cylinders. The cylinder walls still had the original cross hatching in them after all those miles... I didn't even need to replace the bearings.. but i did..

You may have to do an online search and see what people are using for that aftermarket throttle body. Or go the old school route and take a trip to your local pull a part Junkyard, so you can try to match a sensor up. Bring some tools so you can remove the sensors from those throttle bodies. Then check for a matching Throttle shaft and mounting holes. Buy a new one if you find a match..

No problem man, just lending a hand, all you have to do is get the ribbed pulley n grind the tensioner a tad, bolt it on and get the shorter belt. That's if your not trying to have a/c or Power steering. lol I used a Throttle body off of a Ls400 non traction control car.. I was looking at those Ebay ones before i decided on the Ls400 one.. I may swap that over to an even shorter/smaller one, i pulled off of a Ford Crown Vic. I have been thinking for a long time that a 2j with a huge log intake, doesn't need a large throttle body. You can try to make an angle piece for the throttle body or find an intake boot that has a nice angle to it... I have a lot of pics in my Na-t build thread.

Looks good so far, A couple of questions ??.. Did you block off the egr port under the plate, at the rear of the cylinder head ??.. If not you will have exhaust heat running to the intake manifold.. Are you going to do the ribbed idler puller swap??. Have you thought about using a shorter throttle body ??..

You can use an R-200, it is a strong diff. Just hard to find the R200 3.70 Clutch pack rear diff.. Not sure if the R180 out of the Sti is positraction or not.. Check around for the Jdm turbo VQ. already is a rear drive engine.. For intake purposes...

I dont know know anything about tuner studio im still running on megatune, Have to upgrade to it myself.. But to get the engine running have you tried using starting fluid to get the engine to run ??.

Just do your research... 2jz with a 350z trans.. The Sc300 is a longer chasis but the same principles apply. I remember seeing pictures of someone who made a shifter rod that ran rearward. Mounted the shifter to the body..

Check out club lexus, the SC300-400 performance section has a thread or two about how they shortened the shifter and linkage that was made. Guys there are using the 350z 6spd trans...

If the car is that year the tank should work. You will need a better fuel pump for the engine though..

Ok cool, I like to ask since i didn't see it mentioned. I have been thinking about using a Borgwarner 200 series Turbo on mine. Let me know how you like the s366. My ebay one hits full boost at 4000rpm. Its a street car and in 4th gear at 70mph, i mash the pedal and hit full boost im over 95 mph. Pulls hard as hell. I would like full boost at 3000rpm. Yeah me and wiring mix like gas and water.. Lol I haven't had any problem with that intake yet, I will look into why they say it should be welded. I have always wanted to have a GTE intake Manifold welded to the N/a runners, Car will be sitting for 3 months, so i may have it done during that time. Waay to hot here in July-August to drive it, since it has no a/c.

Looks good so far, What injectors are you using??... Did you block off the EGR ??.. Have you seen that you can take off that dist cap off and use the smaller truck cap or even put a cover over top of the dist ??. I have seen some with no cap at all. My Nat2j build is about the 5th one down the list.

Looks good man.

Is the oil drain line clear of any debri ??. Is the drain line routed without any kinks You can try putting a restrictor in the oil supply line to the turbo...

I ran 13 psi of boost with an 83 N/A engine that i added turbo parts to, Flat top piston engine. With a late model 260Z, Had that setup for 7 years before going N/A 2J Turbo. I ran stock boost with an n/a 83 ecu first, engine would fly through emissions. Then i added Megasquirt2, t3/t4 turbo and more boost. stock head gasket.. You can run more boost with a cylinder head that is properly ported and No Intercooler Need an upgraded turbo. t3/t4 or t4. Megasquirt 2, T3/t4 turbocharger, n42 non-egr intake, n/a throttle body, 450-460cc Mazda rx7 fuel injectors 240sx style tps for Megasquirt, Turbo Distributor, Bosch ignition module to provide spark, 280z Gas tank, 83 N/a 5spd, 3.70 Clutch pack lsd. PM me if you have more questions..