speeder
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Posts posted by speeder
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You go, Gabe- Nice numbers.
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Turns out the problem was a clogged fuel filter. Why people use those little 1-1/4" diameter tubes with the disc elements (like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-230101/ )inside for fuel injection is beyond me. The filter element had no visible debris captured (I visually checked it about 3 times during this embarassing episode) , but was restricting flow to the point where I could hardly blow through the assembly. Took the element out and the problem is gone!
softop, PM me for the info you requested - It's not relevent to this thread. The fuel rail used on this engine is the stock LSx one, and yes, we had that one off to check.
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Rick,
Where are you taking FPR reference signal from? A port just behind the throttle body - LSx motor with stiock TB. Have you tried taking the signal from a different port? No, It was working fine with this same source when the first Walbro failed. Changed the hose you are using? Hose is good - I removed the hose at the vacuum port to connect my compressed air for testing, including the whole vacuum distribution block and all hose we are using. Are you actually seeing the fuel pressure drop at the FPR while under boost? Yes. How is the fuel system run, looped or dead ended like stock? Full return system using the Aeromotive regulator at the inlet of the fuel rail.
Joe
Like Scottie said, "I am frustrated and angry at this whole situation." Bout sums up my mood too. I'm sure when we find the solution it will be a forehead slapper. We're back on it today with pump hanger rev 3.
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These adapters may work fine in lower boost/HP motors, but they have their limits and may not work as well in higher boost/HP motors.
What is not desirable about these wastegate adapters is the 90 degree turn the exhaust gas has to make; especially as the speed of the exhaust increases, it becomes more and more difficult for the exhaust gas to make the turn. If you can manage it, a 45 degree angle or less is better.
I have done wastegates on a downward facing pipe (used 1.75" thick wall cast iron from a hardware store, 42mm T'netics Racegate) welded to the bottom of an L28 manifold, and see no difference in quality of boost control at the 400whp level compared to this adaptor. Above that hp level for an L28 I have no experience.
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Both the RPM and MAP signals are very noisy.
Yeah, that is puzzling - but I can see no reason for fuel pressure to decrease as a result. Also before this fuel pressure problem everything was good(smooth) on the datalogs.
I think the major thing to look at is the wbafr trace - a classic signature of lean misfires, backed up with simultaneous decreasing fuel pressure.
We're attacking the fuel pressure as a primary cause. Still don't understand the difficulty with making a pump and regulator work... But then I have had a horrible recent history with bad new parts.
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I just installed this adaptor on a customer's L28. Welded it onto the manifold, and welded on a V-band for a Tial 38mm Wastegate. All V-bands on the stainless downpipe made a very compact installation.
Turbo is a GT3076r, crazy fast spool.
Even with less than optimal angles for the exhaust dump into the wastegate, that 38mm valve should outfow any internal gate I've seen.
We got solid boost control from 12 -20psi with a Sard boost controller (after much guessing about how to make settings -Japanese Language Manual!), 12 pound spring in the wastegate. I would recommend this setup.
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Well, We are building a dual Walbro pump setup to replace the single Bosch. Everything else checks out.
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Datalog of the problem:
Any insights are welcome!
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Scottie/GNZ and I are working on a Megasquirted Turbo LS2 which is posessed. Tuning was progressing well until we started to see lean conditions starting under low boost conditions, and continueing to lean out under increasing boost until the car would backfire and stall.
Rigging a fuel pressure gauge showed fuel pressure dropping from base pressure (~43psi) as boost increased.
We were running twin Wabro 255s in the tank, and quickly found one of them bad, actually bleeding pressure from the good one when both were running.
Long story short, getting the pump hanger with 2 Walbros back into the small tank opening (2nd Gen RX7) proved almost impossible, so we installed a single Bosch 044. Same fuel pressure problem.
Troubleshooting to date:
1.Connecting compressed air to the the regulator (Aeromotive A1000) reference port while running the pump makes fuel pressure track properly ( fuel pressure increases from base setting at 1:1 ratio to reference). Reference air pressure was injected at the vacuum distribution block's feed point from the manifold to make sure a vacuum operated accessory on the block was not dropping manifold pressure.
Same problem under boost load.
2.Just for grins, replaced the regulator. same problem.
3. Checked for no restrictions in the fuel lines or clogged filters.
4. Checked for full voltage at the pump relay (rear mounted battery, < 3 feet of 10 guage wire to the pump ) under load, looked good. (Can't get on the intank connections but pulled the pump and gave a good visual inspection - no way they are bad.
5. Installed a 255L Walbro inline downstream from the intank pump, with its own relay for power. Interesting result was the fuel pressure decrease under boost was WORSE! This has to be telling us something. Some sort of blockage? Bad (new) intank pump restricting flow?
6. I will once again verify no blockages in the fuel line - The pump hanger has been removed and tested to have no internal leaks or clogged filter sock.
7. Next is checking the injector drive signals for anything weird - I'll take a storage scope onboard and see what they look like. Grasping at straws, I did a quick calculation and found that 100% duty cycle with the 8 -65 lb injectors *could * have more flow than the Bosch could provide (depending on what the real specs of the pump are) , but certainly not with a booster pump inline. Also, at the problem area, 3600 rpm and 7 psi boost, datalogs report 75% duty cycle and 17MS pulse width. These numbers make no sense except for tuning adjustments made to compensate for low fuel pressure, not any kind of ECU-caused problem. I just want to verify these numbers with the scope. I'll post a datalog later.
I would welcome any observatons/ suggestions here.
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Tony,
I'm working with the owner of this same car, and have another couple pages from the Sard manual needing translation. If ok, I'd like to get them to you.
Thanks.
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Go with ACT in your choice of torque capacity and be done with it.
Thank you.
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Check this out:
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109674&highlight=SPEC+Clutch
Vette, Viper, and Supra guys love them, but they have a really bad rep on Datsuns.
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The Z is back with me - I'm now working on clearance stuff, modifying the car to fit around the new drivetrain.
With the motor offset 1.5" to the left, the header on that side has clearance issues with the strut tower - I've cut a section out of the strut tower and will weld in a concave piece so that header can be removed/installed without raising the engine. After doing some hammering (but not cutting) on the strut towers, I belatedly thought that maybe I should install my strut brace before proceeding. Good idea, huh?
I have found that my triangulated strut brace will work with this engine, as well as having room for a 2" tall throttle body spacer to increase the plenum volume of the EFI converted Victor Intake.
Next I'll be removing the upper part of the core support and build a frame for the angled radiator.
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Hey Jeff,
I have 2 sets of rebuilt 280ZXT axles that I need to get rid of. PM me.
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I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a loose gland nut at the top of the shock body. I could have sworn it was a bearing problem...
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Good luck Mike...
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Reminds me of some of the things we do to people who doze off on third shift. Some really embarassing pictures result
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I have also used them with no negative effects - The flathead bolts' allen heads tend to strip easily, however ... and I definitely second Joel's recommendation to use anti-seize.
FYI: I have 4 of these that I intend to put up for sale...
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This was a joke - I was watching the welding process and sensed a photo op.
I would like to know how you got that shirt you are wearing from the mean looking guy pictured in your avatar.Mean? That guy is Curly from the 3 Stooges. I've always been amused to find that people think that it's me.
That cradle needs a section about twice that big to hold on to that TT V6 rocket you're going to bolt to it?.That piece will be plenty strong, thank you - The design ties in with the stock crossmember.
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Yesterday the motor was fully supported by some really elegant Scottie-GNZ -designed cradle/mounts - Final welding being done as we speak.
A little hammering on the inner fenders and the headers/turbos fit! I was worried about wastegate room but it looks to be easy to fit. Note the V-banded angle adaptors for the header-to turbine inlet connections. The GN headers had to have this mod to mount the turbos inward in the Z's long - but - narrow engine bay..
I will have to angle the radiator to make room for air filters-
I have discovered that I will have to hammer/ mod the passenger footwell to clear my rear-mount starter and clearance the rear of the trans tunnel for my 1350-Ujointed driveshaft, but, with the radiator mod, those "appear" to be the last clearance issues.
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IMO, with big torque motors in a Z, or serious deceleration loads caused by road racing, it is a good idea to make your diff front mount as strong as possible to resist any movement in the vertical plane.
There are several different front mount beef-up solutions in the Drivetrain forum, including mine.
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Tranny Mount is built, Motor mounts are mocked up. Pics soon.
Saw Z-Gad on the road yesterday and he remarked "Well, now that it's at Scottie's we'll see some progress."
There are still lots of things to fabricate, hammer, and ortherwise make fit, but it's getting far enough along to start looking doable. Talk about underestimating the scope of a project...
External wastegate adaptor
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
My server is down now, but when it's back up you can see pics of my setup in post #17.