speeder
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Posts posted by speeder
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Car, engine, and transmission are at Scottie's - We begin measurements for motor mount construction tomorrow.
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Dr. James,
Good to hear from you! Please stay in touch.
You have mine and Scotties' and Mike Gads' numbers.
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please keep us updated on how the rearend holds up.
I went with the Armada diff because I needed the 2.93 gears (Non-Overdrive transmission) instead of the Z32's 3.70. The Armada R&P won't fit into the Z32 case. My Buick Stage 2 and 27" tall Mickey Thompson drag radials should give the setup a good stress test, as I'm expecting somewhere in the neighborhood of 8-900 lb/ft of torque.
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Finally got my rear done -
Details of my diff mount for the Armada-cased R230 are in my build thread:
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1047276#post1047276
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Back to work. To make room for the fenderwell exhaust exits, and to reduce sensitivity of the brake pedal for my Wilwoods, twin Tilton masters with balance bar are installed.
Front crossmember's motor mounts shaved and control arm pivots relocated
Right side tool box area cut, welded and seam-sealed for Armada-cased R230 mounting ear clearance.
Front diff mount built
What a pain to build that, had to lift the 125 pound diff in and out about 10 times. The Armada case has wider spaced mounting ears than the Z32TT case, necessitating more cutting and a more complicated diff mount.
Here's the mount installed.
And finally , the end result - The R230 mounted with full TTT setup and Dan's sweet rlcas:
I'm working on getting the motor outfitted with all the major protruberences (drysump pump, etc.) so we can begin engine bay placement and motor mount build.
I had made some rough measurments that told me that the turbo placement would put them into the sides of the inner fenderwell, so I have modified the headers rather than cut on the car. Headers are now at the tig welder's to receive V-bands and right angle adaptors - Will give great flexibility in making the turbos fit and getting good angles for the twin 3" downpipes. I'll post pictures when done.
Next step is to take the car to Scottie's tomorrow for engine mount installation. I'm excited to be this far - Will be too cool to see the engine in its new home!
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You know that Zs don't do well in the snow, right?
Sorry to see you go, Man.
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What Joel said... The TEC3 is far from obsolete in terms of performance, and is probably the best bang for the buck in terms of cost, with no external igniters required. Electromotive's ignition is probably the best/ most powerful I've encountered for a turbocharged car.
Some other ECUs have more features and outputs, but you will find none that offer better performance.
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I might still have the booklet for the installation of the BAE turbo set-up.
If you guys will follow my link in the post above you will find the complete BAE kit manual. I posted this for another guy years ago.
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Also, that noise is almost certainly an exhaust leak, from a single cylinder from the sound of it. I've also heard a head gasket leak that blows out the side sound like that. You can test that with a compression check.
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Check this out:
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96805&highlight=BAE
It looks as if you don't have the silicone hose clamped well at the throttle body?
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Looks good to me - 15-20 amps should be sufficient for the fuse.
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B-0 is the 12v power source for the six coils and the igniter. The noise filter capaciter is connected from this bus to ground.
The IGC outputs pulse the coils to ground to fire them. If this igniter is like the Lexus ones I've used, the IGT inputs cause a negative pulse out of the igniter for a positive 5V pulse (like the Haltech outputs) input
To wire in your Haltech's three ignition outputs do: IGN1 to IGT1&6,
IGN2 to IGT2&5, IGN3 to IGT3&4. wire the coils per the diagram. This will yield a waste spark configuration fired in 1/6-2/5-3/4 order.
Make sure that you set the Haltech ignition setup to FALLING edge, about 3MS dwell before you power on the system or you will blow something up. Ask me how I know.
I don't recall what the IGF is but I don't believe it is required. I'll try to check and verify this.
Use the tach output pin 1 to directly drive your car's tach - You may need a resistor in the line - if it's not a 240z one.
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Here Ya go.
Your connectors are I2 and I3. Diagrams are looking into the cable plug. A=I2, B=I3 on the igniter wire diagram.
http://rick.thebowersplace.com/pix/IGN.JPG
http://rick.thebowersplace.com/pix/2J Connectors.jpg
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Wire INJ1-3 in the following order:
1 to one side of injectors 1&6
2 to """2&5
3 to """3&4
INJ4 is not used
Run 13.8 DC INJ to the other side of all injectors.
You can run semi-sequential with this wire config.
Don't know about the E6K, but most Haltechs have an injector current setting that is made according to your injector impedence.
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I can look this up on Alldata...What year/model is this igniter?
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you appear to have the front tire turned the wrong way.
Nope, the Toyos are "backward" from the way you might expect them to look.
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You have excellent taste Clive:
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My CCWs: 12X18 rear, 11X18 front, anodized shot peened centers.
More pictures on my build thread:
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=136300
Scroll down.
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I'm making slow progress with the swap - The dual brake master install is in work - That and the rear mount battery will make room for the twin exhausts to dump into the fenderwells.
Next is installation of the front crossmember with shaved motor mount towers and relocated control arm pivots.
After the above is done, all that remains before building motor mounts is front diff mount fabrication.
Pics of the CCW wheels - Shot -peened anodized centers, 12X18 rear, 11X18 front. Tires are Toyo RA-1s, 335/30-18 rear, 275-35-18 front.
I threw the R230 in the back just to make the rear sit lower, but it needs that lump in the front to get the stance right!
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Looking good Wayne - I hope my twin turbo lump isn't too far behind...
I had forgotten about that hi-tech hood prop. And now it has a paint job? Sweet!
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I'm now working with the stock sensors with a Haltech ECU.
The crank sensor on the GTE motor is a 12 tooth wheel with none missing.
The rear cam sensor gives a pulse just prior to # 1 firing position but after the previous (last) cylinder to fire.
Haltech reps say to trigger on the falling edge of both sensors.
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That still the same GS you where working on when I was down there??
Yep, He threw a rod at the drag strip and is back for the new motor install along with a Haltech Platinum Sport 2000.
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Hey Gabe,
I still have the supa tight JDM Altezza and still lovin it! Lookin for sum "R" stickers for the right look, you know what i'm sayin?
Good eye! The GS is is customer car that I have converted to R154 stick shift and am installing engine management for his T74'ed and 1000 cc injector'ed 2jZ-GGTE. One of just a handfull of stick shifted GS's in the world!
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There is a bond between a boy and his father.
Absolutely, the father's example and guidance is an important component in a boy's development.
My boys are 30+ years old and were a challenge to say the least getting through the teens - But all that effort was worth it for the end result.
I know you and your son will be fine. You definitely have my support and understanding.
Rick's Widebody Tilt Front Buick Hybrid
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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Spent some quality time with Swapmeister Scottie today - We got the trans mount mocked up with "just" a minimum of cutting on the car.
That V6 sure looks tiny in there. I do have some plans for all that space up front, however....