sticky280zx
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Posts posted by sticky280zx
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yea im in the same boat as you Joel, i have a tonnn of CF just waiting....finally got the motor done, so now theres paint, and then the seeexxyyy time when all of the cf finally goes on, hell i almost bought 10 of those race on hoods (when they were 300) cause i figured they would go sky high, but instead got one cause i figured if the got anymore expensive people would buy the lighter real thing from BETA...something about hindsight and 20/20 lol then again i wouldve had to store them for 4 years too lol
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guy....youre starting to reallly get on my nerves, some cars are investments (10th ae LOW miles, ZX-R's, Black Pearl Edition 78s, A low vin/miles series one, etc) stop being such an idiot and post useful info, or stop hitting the reply button.
In other news, if the car could be had for cheaper itd be even better (if its not running, obviously been sitting, etc) he should be atleast somewhat flexable on the price, if not hes probably like 350z fanboy above that swears the cars are worth a fortune, or NOTHING at all....hopefully he really just wants to sell the car.
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Do you like changes clutches? if so stay stock, if not buy one like the centerforce dual friction or exedy, both full face and the dual friction is still sprung so its verryyy dd friendly. also lets say the stock will hold the power...but for how long vs the better/expensive clutch....i like to only build my cars once, and clutch changes every year arent on my list of todo's
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pretty sure thats just the drivetrain not the car, the car was always the useless part of the equation, i wouldnt have even thought about riding in that junker with that motor setup or even 1/2 of the claimed power without worrying about dying that day.
Good luck with the sale....where is Darius or someone else with DEEP pockets that would finally put this beast to work and NOT blow up...
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-19 makes up for that buddy....10 @ 0 wouldnt fit (unless you have coils, then it will) ask me how i know.
BUT an 8 -25 is nice 9.5 -19 is nice 10 -20 to -25 or so should work on stock suspension...etc (talking rear here)
i dont see much use on anything bigger than a 235 or so width tire up front...anything else will rub and no need for a 235 on a 10 unless you realllly want it to look dumb. Stick with an 8, 8.5, 9, on the front and focus on squeezing as much TIRE on the back vs rim, remember not much of a purpose to put the same 215s on a 10" wheel when you could fit the same size on stock wheels... make your rim/tire combo USEFULL
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not offended at all i just dont think people get what it takes to get something like this going, ask all the shops, builders, etc on this site...those guys have spent tonnns of hours, dollars, and sweat to make this site what it is and i appreciate everyone of them and the others that continue to do so...like roodypoochris and the roat wheels, ben1088 and the real HID's, list goes on and on. Im just trying to make a MORE affordable header for everybody and that means im out the 10k or so before i slowly start to get paid back for it all.
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these cars are beat to crap by kids like that all the time, and what market, there are a ton of people selling runners for under 2k (most are garbage) but people would rather buy them then realize a bodyshop/welder will charge the same 2k or more just to replace the pans/rails, which is why they get junked and eventually there wont be any/many left, i personally am waiting on that day, because it will get all the people that dont care about the car out of the "group" ive never been a purist but there arent many clean cars left much less for under 5-10k and will only go higher when there are even less. Like alot of others im sitting on more than a few cars because the market will turn and when it does ill be even happier than i am now, itll be like in the uk, etc see above thread lol
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thats why i have a few guys overseas that i sell to on a regular basis. They actually like these cars and because of the rarity they pay for it but when i can sell them a complete nice car for 10k vs their 20k over there or 5k over here/locally, it definately shows why everyone is happy lol
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another z car or some spare sheet metal are really your only options
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Do you find all the interior switches work, being a '68?
I think the one I was looking at was a 302 with all sorts of trick **** done to it and the manual 5 speed. Two things I'm concerned with, 1) don't know if I want trick **** because it will just lower the fuel mileage? 2) Dad doesn't like the idea of a manual 5 speed in a truck but then again, he always brings my little step brother everywhere so he's constantly kicking the shift lever. Figured 5th overdrive would be nice for highway driving. I think the question I have for that now, is it safe to tow in 5th. I've heard a lot of no's and a lot of yes'.
I have one more long trip in this Honda and I'm done needing it.
Sticky, I'm seeing a lot of tranny options. Do they all pretty much bolt in or something? The 5 speed I was looking at is one from a Mustang. How is the mileage, not towing, in your Ford?
Ive got the stock 360...they came 360 or 460 that year and only manual option is the "three on the tree"...remember alot of these have been many peoples "projects" and the closer to stock/one owner the better. I bought mine for $1,300 and have roughly 2k into it now, it was running and driving when i bought it but needed tires as they were dry rotting (still have the same ones on it lol), also the radiator had been "fixed" by the PO (which was just getting it braised since it was brass) on the ride home it popped that weld pretty easy and so i just bought a $200 aluminum replacement and havent had any issues yet.
Brakes are a HUGGGGE factor in these things, most are drums all around or disk front and drum rear in later models, at any rate they need to be gone through thoroughly or swapped for the early 70s disc fronts, having a standard i would see as a positive hinestly (engine braking, easier shifts/gear selection for towing, etc). The truck gets anywhere from 12-15mpg just driving, probably 8-10 towing (in town) add 2-3mpg to each if its highway miles (and i have the 3 gear auto with a 4th OD), alot of **** swaps with these old trucks (just like our datsuns) trans, brakes, etc...
I love my ford because it was cheaper than alll of the chevys but the chevys already have 350s which are cheap and very plentiful, but i like the bumpside body alot better and ive already had a swb chevy and i wanted a long bed for towing/my other job (decorative landscapes, hauling mulch, rock, car parts, etc) and this was going to be my WORK truck not a pretty/fast truck, or i wouldve just gotten another sqb chevy. Just depends on what you want but since the 302 has already been swapped in you can either keep it mild and use it as a work truck or throw a turbo, nitrous, etc onto that 5.0 and have a good ole time, either way make sure the body is in good shape and dont worry too much about rusty panels as you can find cheap doors, fenders, hoods, tailgates, etc for $50-100 alllll day long and not much more for new repros.
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if need be i can post my CC statement showing its not "all talk" but at the same time i am the one that has been out multiple thousands here, and still getting it all put together and for YOU guys (since i dont even have a turbo car or plan on going turbo anytime soon). But then again how many other people do you know that are ponying up the cash UPFRONT to make something to help the community out and still keep the cost down, hell send me 1500 and i can have a t3 or 4 with a 38 or 44mm w/g in a week or two...but everyone here for the most part is cheap and doesnt want to pay REAL shop rates. But if you want one go ahead and send me the $1500 or sign a contract and ill have one made right away, otherwise youre going to have to wait untill i get the spare time to make these (basically for free) or find someone that likes to weld for little to nothing.
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LAWLS i have a 68 F100 360 v8 2brl (better milage) with an auto 85 bronco trans...love it, just got a month ago and have been tinkering with the interior along with a new radiator with a coolant and tans flush
hiding in the back over there...
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used dash...not stored=could crack anytime...$600 gamble or $1200-1500 for a brand new one? Id rather have the insurance im thinking if i was going to spend that kind of money
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its someone that you know....or has seen where you store them it would seem, unless alot of storages got broken into...unless you have an outside UNLOCKED storage...and then i mean comeon, thats kinda like asking for it, maybe they had cameras?
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custom shops can make that same header (without the name ofcourse) but itll still run aroun 1500....group buy should get to kicking in here in the next month, and should end up around 1/2 of what greddy is asking
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i have a 75 280z that i could trade, it needs some bodywork (smoothing out) and paint but the chassis isnt rusty which is what counts, also its a 75 so its smog free everything and runs well, would be willing to meet halfway or something but i also would rather wait untill better weather obviously lol...i plan on coming/going up there in the spring if you would be interested but i would expect a reliable car with good tires, as thats what shape my z is in
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wellll let me throw you off some more with blue again....my old flared 240z
Notice the side rockerpanels were painted black with a thin pinstrip above them...looked great to me
Also that car had the flares mounted too high...wouldve been fine with coilovers and camber plates, VERY low to the ground but i like where yours are ALOT better (no motor, interior, etc in the car in that pic btw so its reallly high, wasnt that bad when installed).
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i know a guy here local that does good stuff....ive never been a fan of garage p/c jobs ive always left it up to the pros and he's pretty cheap only 100-150 for z/zx headers
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i prefer the shock and spring/less work approach....
But if i cared about slamming it any lower (its only about 3-4" from the ground up front) i would go coils, but i care more about wheel gap/being flush with the fenders WITHOUT rubbing/rolling/and stretching girly sized tires on wide wheels...kinda defeats the purpose of running a wide wheel when you could run 225's on the stock 14x6s
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Yes i am. pm me please with more info.
PM me back or email me at datsundriver88@hotmail.com
^^Awesome.
Got this the other day:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
First clear one that I have seen. Should look nice on the Z.
I have a CF cowl for an s30....they were made stateside btw, allllsooo im pretty sure that was one that has just had the colored lenses taken out (like baked, pulled apart, then baked back together) if the color strips are internal vs being actually colored lenses....alot of people do this to taillights
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Just figured id update with pics of the new setup on the very recently bought 2+2
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i got a 3" dp for a turbo car that i got a while back, let me know
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i too have a full set of the bigger 9mm rods with bolts in great shape, shot peened and ready for install
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i only say the rotas because theyre not horribly heavy and come in a good size/offset and most ZX guys are too cheap to ccws, kodiacs, ssrs, etc for 2-4k+ vs some cheap $750 brand new staggered setup with the right offset.
Offset Help
in S130 Series - 280ZX
Posted
the rotas require NO mods....on stock suspension and even on "lowering spring" cars, its when you go lowww or depending on what tire size/brand you run, but a fender roll will solve any type of slight rubbing.
275-40-17 on the 9.5s was no problem on many of the zx's ive put them on