budgy
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Posts posted by budgy
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Car is off to get the paint/body work done. Hopefully not too many typical Datsun surprises. Feels good to have some real progress.
Go and check out LangesShop on Instagram, this guy has an incredible little shop built on his own property, does amazing work mostly on older trucks. Will give ideas on what the finish paint should look like.
EDIT: Forgot to ask a few things if anyone has advice on the matter; I am looking to find the JDM Headlight covers with the metal trim, if anyone has some for sale or knows a good place to look for them it would be much appreciated. I must ditch these cheaper plastic ones as I think they will look out of place with the rest of the build.
Also, I am wondering if there is any consensus in the community in terms of underbody paint protection. I want something that will look good (gloss black preferably) but I am looking for something that is rugged and excellent rust protection without adding unnecessary weight to the chassis. I will be avoiding rain and gravel to the best of my ability but I intend to drive this car a lot so something functional is needed. -
For my swap I am using a VQ37HR out of a G37 with a CD009 6-speed out of a 370Z, the motors themselves are identical and are interchangeable with their factory respective transmissions.
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Why do people even make such ridiculous claims on power? I mean beautiful and powerful engine. I am guess they are over estimating the actual power figures by about 100 horsepower.
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Car is going into the shop for phase 1 of the build soon. Just waiting on mounts and other goodies from McKinney and Engine/transmission/wiring harness from ZFever.
Made a harrowing drive to Montana a couple days ago to pick up a ton of stuff from Techno Toy, just happened to be after a pretty major blizzard. CV Axles from Futofab.
Also a one off, Walnut w/Mahogany stripe shift knob with the correct thread pitch for the 370Z transmission.
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Not sure what happened there, Flickr is usually safe for me.
Screenshots are the next best thing; custom gauges by New Vintage USA. Redline is actually 8100, but I like the way the 8K spacing works over 10K. doing custom tach redline would have added significantly to the cost. These were not cheap but I am happy I did them seeing the night time shots. -
Decided I would start a thread to chronicle some of my build so I can look back and remember the fun I had doing this.
ZFever has harnesses for the VQ37HR working great with Osiris/Uprev which makes this swap a reality now.Got a few pictures as the car is now, I blew up my 3.2 stroker build not long after that action shot was taken. Block I believe failed due to heat stress. Got some pics of that aftermath, I thought the engine would just run cooler if I dumped a ton of coolant into the crankcase. Blew off a PCV line and had a crazy amount of vapour pour out of the engine bay on the track. Got my heart pounding
This engine actually still started and ran by the way!
I have a collection of parts coming in soon, but will try to make large updates rather than a ton of small ones over the course of the winter. Found an excellent shop to do paint/body and most all of the work will be handled by professionals, I really don't have the time to do this kind of project on my own. But many props to those of you that make the time and do it all on your own.Will have turn signals, and even a CEL. The redline on the reflash will actually be set @ 8100RPM, but not sure I will need to go past 8 so I am happy with the look of the tach, the 10K tachs to me I do not like the spacing as much. These gauges were a design that I basically copied/inspired from the AWR guages made for Miatas.
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1) I just started tearing into the engine and yeah half of those lines are coolant lines going to the darn throttle bodies. You are capping those for now? I am also not sure which vacuum lines that can be capped.
2) Zfever did my wiring. I am taking off the harness now and seeing if I can revers feed it into the engine bay.
3) I purchased the VQ swap kit about 1-2 years ago from McKinney. It came with two little red poly mounts. Are those what you are referring to?
If you find out any good info, please share it. I would love to know how yours runs without all the crap.
Not sure you found the answers you need on those coolant lines but you can bypass the throttle bodies rather than routing the coolant through them instead would be better than 'capping' the lines that will almost always spring a leak. Just have the lines connect to each other directly rather than 'through' the throttle bodies. You can still remove some of the excess lines, have the added benefit of a potentially colder inlet air and no chance of a leak. I would be a little concerned about welding shut the coolant passage on the engine itself as on a modern aluminum engine a ton of R & D is done on effective coolant flow to reduce hot and cold spots in the engine. My concern is if the flow was somehow changed it could warp the block over time...maybe I am being paranoid.
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Blew my stroker build chasing down a 993 Porsche Turbo on the track a couple weeks ago. Was thinking of doing a VQ35HR as I knew the VQ37HR is more challenging due to the intake system control. I would strongly suggest getting in touch with Z-Fever out of Florida, the VQ37HR stuff is not on their website but they can modify the harness to work and probably save you a ton of time. Once I knew they got it working with factory ECU I decided on VQ37HR as well, more power and more plentiful to find replacement engines if you ever have issues.
Good luck!
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I would strongly recommend getting a wideband gauge installed in the car to help tune the carbs the way you want them. Mikuni generally recommends hitting an AFR of 12:1 under WOT (wide open throttle) for maximum power but still with a safety net. Going a bit leaner than that will make a bit more power. Best to test based on being in a high gear like 4th or 5th for testing your AFR under the heaviest loads you can put the car under. If you put a wide band in and can witness what is going on in real time you can ultimately tune your car much better for power. Generally putting in more fuel will get you more power assuming it is actually being burned.
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Since you have the 40's you should run them first. I don't see why it isn't enough carb unless you are running high RPM all the time. I know you can't always tell based on the specs but your cam doesn't sound like its made for a high rpm screamer more of an excellent midrange? I have 45mm carbs on a cam that's a bit larger and similar compression but its also almost a 3.2 litre engine. If you are planning on running an excellent crank dampener and revving to really high RPM's then you might need a bit larger carb to take advantage of that but you would likely also want more cam too.
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Yeah I imagine its a big advantage essentially because you can pretty much just leave the car in one gear and almost never need to shift.
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Congratulations Derek! You must feel like Dr. Frankenstein or something, just maybe a little crazier?
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Maybe a simple rev limit would be better if your low end torque and throttle response is still good? Or is that not going to allow enough gearing flexibility?
Those are pretty solid numbers for sure!
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How is the steering effort with those massive grippy tires?
Are you essentially a stock engine just with a makeshift cold air and long tube headers?
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Props to you for attempting the VQ37HR, I am not even sure if there is a standalone that can run the intake valve control on this engine. I heard the TB is always open all the time so I do not even know why they run coolant through the damn thing in the first place. The intake air flow is controlled by the opening of the intake valves. Its this complexity that makes me think a VQ35HR would be an easier compromise.
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Im saddened that I would still have a lot of bottom end work to do on my stroker if I wanted to take full advantage of this head, im already bored to 90.5! I suppose I could run what I have but with the need for custom pistons I feel I am better building a whole new block for it too.
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Not sure if Tony D is referring to the new NSX, but I am ignorant on that engine completely. But the point remains the same, VTEC contrary to what people believe was always intended to improve the low end drivability/emissions of a car with a big cam. When you have an inline 6 with more displacement and in a car that is going to weigh significantly less than your typical RSX or even S2000 the low end drivability issues of a 'VTEC killer' setup are likely just not going to be an issue.
Leon good to see someone from S2KI following the thread -
You are definitely correct about what the A3 heads version of 'i-VTEC' was for. Just not sure how much it matters when there isn't going to be variable lift; I think the beautiful thing though also about this head is how much it flows with say only a .4" lift compared to a massive .6" with a stock ported head. Should leave a reasonable amount of space for valve/piston clearance and still be able to make good power in a wider range of RPM's. I certainly appreciate all the thought and care you have put into making this a head that can work for just about anyone's idea of a build.
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I linked this thread to the Clubrsx forums hopefully someone there will follow and be of some help. There was atleast one member there with a 240Z that loved the concept of what you are building.
K20A2 Head 50.5cc combustion chamber - Has 4.25cc domed pistons hence why still a higher compression ratio.K20A3 Head 48cc combustion chamber- Has 2.5cc dished pistons.
The chamber on the K20A3 has an extra quench pad that is reducing the volume. Seems to me the ones that want to make big compression and power without turbos it might almost be easier to do so with the K20A3 design so you might be able to run some kind of already available piston/rod/crank combo? I am assuming getting custom pistons made is a lot easier than camshafts though. -
Not sure how you can calculate overall flow from just this one number because technically the head will flow differently at all different RPM's and bigger valves are better suited to higher RPM action.
But in terms of actual size of the valve, when you calculate the surface area of a circle with a radius of 22mm (44mm valve) you get 1520 square mm. A 21mm radius (42mm valve) is 1385 square mm. This ends up being about 9% bigger in terms of area not just the radius or diameter because you are dealing with a circular object. Experienced engine builders would know much better than me, but I am assuming the valve stem itself is actually restricting flow on some small level and because the stems (or the guides) are probably the same size in both scenarios the difference in flow between a 44 and 42 mm valve might be even higher. -
Haha I feel like I should qualify sentence and say I was being sarcastic. Got a lot of friends in the trades being in oil country, I just pull out the popcorn when I see these discussions
Sorry to de-rail the thread! -
Man that is ever gorgeous! Don't become a plumber...maybe a pipe fitter if anything!
WARNING, FOUL NSFW Language -
Now you're just showing off, and its glorious. Almost has a steam punk kind of look to it, if they were zinc plated lines or brass would be pretty cool too
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Just waiting on Crane to get cams machined? Now that they have patterns for the cams do you think they are okay with building custom grinds for other people that want to build more radical versions of your head? Looks like you can use existing timing chain tensioners as well to help stabilize that @ high rpm?
240Z VQ37HR Swap
in Nissan V6 Forum
Posted
Thanks for the tip! Did some fairly extensive reading on that today and I think that may be what we do, sounds like the heat/sound stuff from them is fairly light and still very rugged.
Got some more updates to share, she was a decent looking car before but she was definitely a cake face