Boriqueazy300ZXT

I was planning to run with the Z32 TT injectors and fuel rail in my Z31. I also have z32 TT flow meter and pathfinder ignition system... am I gonna go anywhere with this upgrades or am I going to keep f@#!(& up with my car??? What should I do just to get some power gain??? Someone please help me?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!!!!!

check the battery. Mine did the same thing and turned out to be a dead battery. I say it's the battery. Try with another one. If it don't start after you changed batteries then check fuses and all that sort of stuff with a tester. I back up the battery theory. Once you've taken the battery out clean the battery terminal with sand paper or a the metallic hair brush that comes for cleaning the terminals. Might as well do the same for all the cables that are connected to the battery and one of them comes out of the starter that might as well be false contact between battery terminal and starter solenoid.

It was on my Z32TT but it ain't the stock one (FPR). I did some research on it because it looked different than the one on the book. It turned out to be a porsche one. This FPR is Bosch brand and Bosch is european. I dunno what got into me. I bought a Mustang flowmeter for my Z32TT and works better on it so I put the stock Z32TT MAF sensor on my Z31. Same as FPR. I really dunno what got into, i'm just going to keep researching until I hit with the problem. We Puertorricans are just fu*&$@ up I say.

Hey guys. I recently added to my car a MAF sensor (flowmeter) from my Z32 twin turbo to my Z31 single turbo and it's basically the same plug and everything. The problem is that my car won't start without the help of carburetor cleaner being sprayed on it when cranking it up. I also changed my fuel pressure regulator for a Porsche one that I also used in my Z32 TT. Are these swaps that I made the cause of my headache right now?!?!?! I need help and fast. Thanks.

IN my case the voltage does not drop, instead it peaks out. I changed my MAF sensor for a twin turbo MAF ( I have and 1986 Turbo Z) and I don't know if that is one of the problems and I wish somebody could answer mew this. Another thing a friend of mine told me is one of the "Fusible links" gone bad...can this be it? Another thing is that I changed my stock regulator for one that looks from a Porsche and I don't seem to find where's the fuel entry, the fuel exit and the air vaccum. This fuel regulator is completely different because unlike the stock one it only has one fuel entrance ( the stock one has two). I'm breaking my head here because of thinking too much, can someone somewhere help me?!?!?!?!

Another thing, a very important one actually. The "Z car expert" over here never told me were the fU(# the coolant sensor is located. My car has my pocket broke, it really is turning me crazy but I really don't want to get rid of it, I wanna fix it but I still don't know that much of Z cars. I'm an ex-Honda guy.

I think the coolant sensor it's one of the problems because a Z expert over here told that when the coolant snsor broke, the computer was going to send more gas because it registers the engine as cold. My car usually spends $10 of gas in 3 hours tops with gas prices over here at $0.66 cents per liter (3.8L/1gallon). The other thing he told me that the broken coolant sensor had to do with my slow, slow, very slow engine rev, and my extremely low throttle response that maybe translated into non-throttle response. I really really wanna fix this problem. Please help me.

Hey. I have an 1988 Non-turbo 300ZX and the only mod I have is the intake filter. My fuel pump broke and basically it doesn't work. I can't seem to find a fuel pump relay to check if it's damaged or not. Recently I was thinking about buying an Walbro 255 LPH Fuel pumpbut I don't know how much mods I have to make in order to use the fuel. The question is...Do I have to change anything in the fuel delivery system in order to use this pump??? Thanks for those who gave me answers.

My car has been been damaging spark plugs like crazy. When I put in new spark plugs, they usually last 2 days before they are damaged again. The spark plugs come out blacker than a night in the woods. Inno that it's mixing in rich but the rare thing is that no black smoke comes out the tail pipe. Another thing is that when I press down the accelerator (try to go full throttle) the car slumps and basically does nothing, I mean, it doesn't accelerate the way that god made it to accelerate, it does nothing. The engine sounds like if I were going at a 100mph but actually I'm going 40mph. The engine sounds exhausted. The timing issue, I,ve already fixed that and it cannot be timing. Mainly I wanna know what are the thing or components that are causing me this headache???

Yeah, I kinda like realized that after I posted. Injectors are not new, they were from my brothers 300ZX Turbo because he installed Volvo 740 Turbo injectors in his car. The cylinder head temp sensor is brand new, but I didn't know the cable sequence ( which color was supposed to be matched with the other color...maybe they are inverted , or does that matter? ). I haven't checked fuel pressure but I guess it's working good because the car does not have any problem starting up when cold and it makes a pretty good idle though it sometimes it kinda acccelerates itself when I turn off all the electric accessories including the headlights, even when I release the brakes. One thing is that car has rich mixture because It's fouling spark plugs like crazy ( 3 spark plug changes in one month). The spark plugs come off as black as night in a forest and they smell like gas too. In the boosting part, what I did was just to play a bit with the waste gate, I just made a hole next to the factory made hole in the waste gate screw, meaning I pulled a little further in so it would take more pounds of boost but it just raises 5 pounds or less when I'm going at a normal speed and 7 to 8 when I'm trying to accelerate fast and uphill. Timming in the belt is perfect, I bought the goodyear belt because ii is the one that comes with the timming marks. The thing with my car is that it makes the effort to accelerate ( the engine sound like it because it forces too much ). I maybe think the problem might be or in the mass air meter or TVS (throttle valve switch, or detonation sensor, dunno ) I don't know if its something mechanical or something electronic. Dunno, I'm just an Artillery man. I can pretty much fix you a gun or a howitzer, but sure still can fix a car nicely. Thanks for the help very much man.

Hi. I recently started to rebuild an 1986 300ZX Turbo that was in my grandma's house and had been junked out for almost 10 years. I basically changed everything in it. The last thing I did was to rebuild the entire engine. Everything in the engine is new, from pistons to camshafts, all original 1986 nissan 300ZX Turbo original parts. Right now basically the problem is that it lacks serious power. If I go full throttle, it won't respond, it will go on, but it won't respond like it is supposed to respond when you full throttle. When I go uphill the car won't go uphill if it ain't in second or even first gear, from third up it just dies going uphill. I really want to fix this car because it has been in my family since 1986. I just want to know where to start checking so I can fix this problem. I'm a Puerto Rico National Guard and I have done 2 Iraq tours serving my dear and best island in the universe, and the greatest country in the whole universe USA. I have invested a lot of money in this project and I want to get it fixed before the next war jajaja. Thanx for the help.