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Posts posted by Toni L
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Hope you can help as I'm chasing some information if I can on how you have done the front struts as I'm about to start on the Tein conversion, did you cut the existing strut tube off leaving what looks like 25/50mm protruding out of the casting refer to your web site
image img_4357, then slip your new strut tube over the top refer to your image img_4359 and weld around the base refer page 13 image _MG_8169?
It appears you have done the rear differently by completely removing the old strut tube and have made a new one which looks like it is a press fit into the rear wheel bearing carrier then welded around the top refer page 12 images img_1292 and 1294?. Did you machine out the hole where the rear strut tube is located or leave as per factory?
Thanks for you time and help
Cheers
Ian
Yes that rear wheel bearing carrier and strut hole is machined bigger. http://toni.dnsf.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=12268
New front tube is pressed over existing tube..
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Got some new parts:
- Custom made exhaust manifold
- Holset HX50 MFS Turbocharger
- 60mm wastegate
Now I´m working with car body again and plan is to paint it finally this summer.. (white colour)
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Thats rather low! Speedbumps going to be an issue?
Height adjust works.
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Car is now sitting in ground with wheels (first time after build).
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Hi.What is the easiest way to replace that front pilot bearing? I have differential case taken away and oil seals, and I can see that front bearing is not tight. Do I have to remove drive pinion?
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Tein coilover conversion and z31 front/rear hubs done. I will change front springs shorter& stiffening with helpers springs. Rear height adjust looks like working better. Front is too high...
More pics: http://toni.dnsf.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=2614&g2_page=14
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Something new...
I´m adding two more pipes to rollcage
http://toni.dnsf.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=12312
Sparco 6-point belts
http://toni.dnsf.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=12318
Suspension parts "final paint" 2k urethane in metallic silver.
I will change those control rods later to adjustable.
http://toni.dnsf.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=12508
Putting first suspension parts to body.
http://toni.dnsf.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=12510
Some parts are plated with electric zinc. I will remove that zinc from "welding area" of those coilover sleeves. My idea was protecting those pipes inside.
I think those are welded and ready in next week and then my coilover conversion is done. Off course I have to paint whole package after that.
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Mate, I am a bit worried about you "Big exhaust, tranny modification". The width of the tunnel makes it hard to fit a decent seat in as it is. By modifying the tunnel like that, you might have trouble fitting anything but existing seats (most new seats will require lower mounts as you don't sink into the seats).
That new "tunnel" ends right before passenger seat. I fitted my sparco seats while I was doing that. And exhaust will continue "flat" below drifeshaft, after 4" downpipe.
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Rear strut modifications done. Hole drilled from 55mm to 60mm and new coilover sleeve fill fit nicely. Strut housing where the bearings fit also bored from 70mm to 72mm so I can fit Z31 rear stub axles.
http://toni.dnsf.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=12268
http://toni.dnsf.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=12270
Tunnel for big exhaust:
http://toni.dnsf.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=12254
Tranny mount almost ready:
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Engine sits in correct place with homemade mounts. Before R154 tranny-mount I will make some space (tunnel) for 3.5 - 4" exhaust.
More pics: http://toni.dnsf.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=2614&g2_page=12
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Test fitting more parts, and I like that white colour.
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Why is it harder to fit the rear strut?
Rear coilover conversion would be easier with shorter struts than those Tein-Flex. Now it requires some modifications to get car very low, if needed. More information when it´s all done.
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I had a summer-break and spent my time with other hobbies, but last week i´ve been working in garage. Still same bodywork but now it looks much better.
Some latest pictures in here: http://toni.dnsf.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=2614&g2_page=11
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r those su[ppose to be like Skyline tailights?
This car has long history and many owners. If we go far backwards... In some point the original rear lights and some other parts were stolen. I don´t really know that person who built this car before, but i´ve heard something.
(stripped bumpers, fitted new lights and exhaust, 1st rust removal, red paint and much more)
I´m pretty sure that previous car builder didn´t even know what is Nissan Skyline, and the model was something like Ferrari...
I have now original USA rear lights but I probably change those to Euro model.
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You can try media blasting for your car body. They can use materials that don´t damage body like sand.
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Hello. I didn´t leave space for original clutch / brake booster. Pedal box was my plan all time. It could be more worse than boosted stock brakes. Who knows... But there will be 2 new brake master cylinders (wilwood or girling) with balance bar and quick adjust. Off course new cylinder for clutch too.
If I have to grind down my welds i use this http://www.terassusi.fi/images/keraaminen.png
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Picture gallery updated. http://toni.dnsf.org/260Z/index_10.html
New pedalbox and more bodywork...
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If you are wondering why there is a wheel and tyre..
It´s because I was measuring what could be ride height for car. With new flares, and without.
Those are summer wheels from my other car. Off course I will test fit again with suspension parts.
When i know what is best wheel offset for my car... I will order new wheels, with correct offset. Before that... it is testing with spacers.
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Yes i have to protect that inner side.
Today i started installing zg-flares.. Not ready yet.
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Off what car are the tein coilovers from???
SUBARU IMPREZA GC8 GF8 GC
WRX STI VERSION I II III IV V VI VIN No JF1GC JF1GF
But, rear strut is little bit long and its not easiest coilover conversion.
It will be fitted okay, with machine work.
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What are you going to have to do prep-wise to paint your dam, is it basically the same deal, primer snad and paint just like the metal parts or is there special considerations since it's flexible?
Phar
Probably sanding and then new primer.
Rear end is getting new shape.
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Front bumper and airdam first test fitting..
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That's pretty nifty tail conversion, did you buy those pieces you'd tacked on, or are you making these as well?
Also what did you use to undercoat the bottom of your Z?
Phar
Making those pieces off course. I will make aero diffusor later and little modifications to fuel cell bracket.
There is 3 different paint in bottom. Zinc fill, epoxy and alkyd-paint.
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Little bit something new. Last weeks I didn´t have much time to work with project..
260Z 2+2 1974 Project +1000hp
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Sorry, Old links doesn´t work!
I could fix those if there is possibility to edit old messages?
Car is now painted as you can see (there is still some chrome parts which will be black).
http://toni.dnsf.org/gallery3/index.php/OMG_5464-1
http://toni.dnsf.org/gallery3/index.php/OMG_5388-1
Engine is disassembled and getting some new parts: CP-pistons 86.5mm, Eagle rods, Acl race bearings and Arp studs.
Of course full gasket kit, new water and oilpump and much more.
Lots of new pictures: http://toni.dnsf.org/gallery3/