Leon
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Posts posted by Leon
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21 hours ago, Gollum said:
Got the engine in Tuesday. Likely won't get it fired up tonight, so next Tuesday is the most likely time I'll get to play around on it some more. If all goes well, I'll be driving it next weekend checking the tune on this motor combo (different head/cam/compression).
Sweet, good work!
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1 hour ago, LLave said:
I had the same thought. Why not move it above the runner? But on the other hand, it doesn't take very much load.
It depends on how you set up the return springs. There will already be a load from each carb/TB with an additional load if a tension spring is used as an auxiliary return. A torsion aux return spring would help reduce loading.
Something else I just noticed, there are three throttle rod supports and the manifold is actually three individual pieces. It's held together via a bolt-in support. The position of that middle (redundant) throttle rod boss is going to be very hard to control and will likely lead to throttle rod bind, which will then make for a sticky return to idle and require heavy return springs thereby putting more stress on that cantilevered boss. You'd be better off having the manifold be one piece and consider removing the redundant throttle rod support.Better late than never I suppose, I'm curious if this project ever got past the design phase!
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Sounds like fun!
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Well shit! Hope you can get it sorted before the 14th.
I'm not sure an F22C1 would fit the character of the car well but to each his own. VQ is a cool swap and the LSx is a given.
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1 hour ago, Gollum said:
Leon, I think stupid_fast will also be at the autox at sonoma September 14th... You should come out. Fuel filter issue or not.
Nice, we'll see if I can make it. I'm already planning to run the road course with NASA the weekend before so the wife will take some extra convincing if I'm going to make it happen.
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14 minutes ago, Gollum said:
Something tells me you've been busy out enjoying the relatively mild summer we've had versus spending time in the new garage... I don't blame you.
That said, I signed up for an autox at Sonoma for September 14th in order to give me a kick in the butt to sort my car out. Would be cool to see you at a cars and coffee with the Velo Rossa sometime.
Nice, the Trackmasters guys always put on a good event. I've been wanting to take my Z out to one but I need to sort some running issues which is probably just a clogged fuel filter...
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In my experience, there is a ton of variability in the body/chassis components, including 40+ years of wear and tear. My old 260Z aligned perfectly and that was a car that had been salvaged due to a rear impact.
I had to mill slots into the transverse link mounts on this current car to get the toe even. Swapping to different strut housings evened out the camber.
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I would never swap out an N54 over an LS. That's one of the worst motors BMW has made, given its durability record.
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Welcome, fellow Bay Area Z owner. I don't see why not
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9 hours ago, PatD said:
@Leon is there anyway to tell when the reservoir ports are covered?
Just take the free-play out of the pedal and give it a bit more. It doesn't take much. You'll know you did it right when you pop the line and it doesn't start dripping.
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2 hours ago, seattlejester said:
It seems like two distinct problems.
Yes, accelerator stick is something like binding in the throttle linkage or the pedal assembly. Nothing should be holding the throttle down while the car is running short of forced induction without a blow off. Otherwise it could be a floor mat/sound deadening/trim catching on it, but that should be fairly obvious.
Pretty sure that clutch is only rated for a bit more than stock. According to what little I remember once you go triples on a good tune you will be past what a stock replacement clutch can hold especially of the smaller diameter. The picture of the throwout bearing suggests you suspect an incorrect throwout bearing holder/fork situation. With a 260z that could be a problem, but without more information that would be harder to tell.
Also 8k is really high, I worry what thing you punished doing so, I would want to give the engine a once over and check the filter for any bearing material and the timing chain for any like stretching or skipping.
I run a stock 225mm clutch on a 10lb Fidanza on an L28 that makes 195whp without any issue, it's the perfect combo of rev-happy but completely streetable. It's not the clutch, if it was installed correctly. There are tons of posts on checking your clutch stack/release bearing height. First thing I'd do is climb under the car and check if there's free-play at the clutch fork. You don't want it pre-loading the release bearing.
Also, no amount of boost pressure is going to keep the throttle plate open, the forces acting on the butterfly are equal and opposite.
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My previous struts had the brake line bracket cut so it could be bent out of the way and the brake line could be extracted without disconnecting it. I don't recall exactly but I think my lines are just hanging now that I've sectioned the struts, perhaps I should revisit that...
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Also, why do you need to disconnect brake lines? Why not disconnect the calipers and hang them on bungee cords?
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Use a pedal depressor and slightly depress the pedal. It only needs to be pressed enough to cover the reservoir ports. You'll lose a few drops plus whatever's in your caliper. Disconnect your battery so your brake lights don't drain it.
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I spy Ben's sweet Z build. Looking forward to watching the film, if not live then a reply.
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The dual-master non-assist setup in my race car has far better feel than any assisted brake setup. A light pedal is harder to modulate, in my experience.
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Here are my settings, using only camber plates. The car handles perfectly to my taste, breakaway is very neutral. I don't have any rear toe adjustment otherwise I would've dialed it down.
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Sounds great!
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Feel free to create a post with specific questions. If you're after finding a mechanic, then I'm of no help unfortunately.
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Right on, I've been running the Works Mitsubeastie in Lemons. It's slow as hell but the most fun I've ever had on track!
I'll be sure to say hi if I ever see an S130 in the paddock.
I may come up to Sonoma next Saturday for the Speed Festival in case you plan to be around.
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Nice, I've run Lemons four times now but all at Sonoma. We keep wanting to build a car and run more of the West Coast races but having the time to do so has prevented such ventures. Came really close to buying a $400 IROC Z Camaro lol! The E36 is probably the perfect chassis for low-buck enduros. It's cheap, easy to work on, has great parts availability, and is fun to drive.
It would be cool to see the ZX at a track event sometime. If there are ever any old Z's at the days I go to, they're always S30s. I run mostly with NASA but also Trackmasters and Speed Ventures. Once in a while, I'll do a day with some other random club. Let us know if you sign up for any!
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This is likely my favorite current build thread, really enjoying the deep dives into everything from gearboxes to ECU definition files. Your pragmatism and ingenuity are fun to watch. Keep up the good work and keep sending it.
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2 minutes ago, luke87gt said:
How much did you cut off the front springs? That looks a lot lower than the Eibach equipped Zs I’ve seen which tend to look nose high.
I didn't cut any coils off, it turns out the 260Z spring perch is lower than the 240Z.
https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/38373-240z-eibach-springs-in-260z/
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Rob at Z Car Garage in San Jose is a dealer. The first picture is outside his shop and the black car is the OSG build they did.
1971 240z ITB install
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
What makes you say that? An FPR without vacuum reference will lead to a wonky fueling table at the very least. It's good practice to maintain a constant pressure difference between the fuel rail and intake manifold, it helps take a variable out of the fueling calculation.