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BenOtomoto

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About BenOtomoto

  • Birthday 05/13/1973

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    http://www.otomoto.com.au

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    Male
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    Sydney, Australia

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  1. Here are the fitted brake components. Arizona Z Car were able to supply the front kit to suit my early hubs, so this was a very easy upgrade.
  2. Shortly after the coilover conversion was completed I finally got around to doing a brake upgrade. This was all bolt-on, with the Arizona Z Car Wilwood kit at the front, Motosport Auto rear brake kit and a 15/16" brake master cylinder. I haven't fitted any proportioning valve as the balance seems fine at this stage (need some more track time to confirm this). The pedal travel is still a bit long, but nothing worth worrying about. About the only hassle was getting the cable handbrake to work. Needed a new cable and some modifications to the lever in excess of what MSA suggest.
  3. The rear coilover conversion was done the same way. I'm using 6kg/mm (336lb) springs front and rear with the HSD TT type coilovers. Seems to be a very nice balance, may try a lighter front spring for better turn-in later. The third photo shows the new ride height with the Watanabes on again. You might also spot the carbon fibre tail light surround, which I got from Restored in Japan. rear.jpg rear2.jpg height.jpg
  4. Another minor development, I'm in the middle of a coilover conversion. So far I've done the front only. I have use HSD coilovers which have a base height adjustment rather than just an adjustable spring seat. After cutting the original strut tube down to two inches, a cup type lower bracket is welded in. The brake line attachment from the original tube has been welded onto the cup and the coilover unit screwed into place. A modified top locator sits against the original top mount. The front is obviously a bit lower now. The back will be done the same way soon. I've got some Rota RBR 16x8 +4 wheels on in this shot, which I have my race rubber on.
  5. Haven't made an update for a while, but now I'm getting around to finishing some important parts. The Kameari gearset has been fitted, (replaces first three gears for closer ratios) and I've gone back to a 4.3:1 diff ratio instead of the 4.875:1 Kameari gears. The result is much more drivable and only takes 10% off the top speed. With the 4.875s I was hitting the limiter in fifth even on the short Oran Park GP circuit front straight. Next week the car is going in for a Kameari electronic ditributor swap, thermo fan with custom shroud and a front brake upgrade. Photos soon. Cheers
  6. Made it to the track this week. With a 4.875:1 Kameari final drive ratio fitted and Hoosier 225/50 16 drag radials I got a 1.68 60-foot time and recorded a 12.82 at 103.9mph. The terminal speed isn't what it should be, so the car will be tuned again next week. Here's the Youtube video:
  7. Went to the drags today but it rained Maybe next week...
  8. All tuned now. On a Dyno Dynamics dyno it makes 269.9hp at the wheels. The generally accepted correction factor for these dynos is 1.3, so that's 350hp at the engine. This is the upper end of what I hoped for from this set up, so I'm very happy. The cam comes to life at 4000rpm and from 5000rpm up the sound is like a motorbike. Peak power is at 6700rpm so I set the rev limiter at 7000rpm. I'm just in the process of fitting an R200 LSD diff from a DR30 Skyline (FJ20 turbo) with driveshafts from a Z31. I'll head out to a dragstrip soon so you'll know the hp figure is accurate. Here's a video of it on the dyno:
  9. After running it in on Hitachi SUs, I've fitted the L31 with the OER six-throttle injection kit. Will be wiring up and tuning an Australian Adaptronic computer next week. Also had the headers ceramic-coated black. Still a few things to tidy up but the car is mostly finished now.
  10. Here is the OER six-throttle injection system I'm putting on the car. It's basically a triple-Weber 45DCOE manifold with a bunch of extra vacuum fittings. The Rail is away getting the injectors cleaned and flowed right now. I had the manifold match-ported to the head when the engine was built, so it should all work pretty well when it's finished. Also I've attached a pic of the radiator I just bought from PWR in Australia. Good value compared to other Z radiators I've seen.injection.jpgradiator.jpg
  11. S13 offset is completely wrong. You need something off an older car. Try old Datsuns like 180B etc.
  12. As you can see by the attachments, my Zed is back on the road! I hope you'll agree it looks pretty damn cool too. The acrylic rear window went in with the standard rear seal. Now I just have to figure out how to make the hatch sit down a bit lower. At this stage the fiberglass doors have no rubbers, as I have yet to modify them to suit these doors. Otherwise it's all good to go. I drove it around the block a few times with just the Hitachi carbs on the big 3.1 engine. Unfortunately the little fuel pump isn't up to the job and the fuel bowls keep emptying out. I'll have to find a bigger one to keep it running properly until I am ready to fit the OER six-throttle injection. More on that later. I also need to sort out the suspension a bit better, but for now it's just a relief to have it driving again.
  13. Some more progress on my 240Z project. I've attached most of the new panels. Unfortunately the doors won't fit properly with door rubbers in place, unless I modify the rubbers. Likewise the rear hatch. In the photos the new acrylic rear window isn't properly in, but I'm hoping I can fit it with the standard seal. More disappointing is the Hartman carbon fiber bonnet, which has a big curve on the right side making it sit up too high and also making it half an inch too short on that side. I will have to cut the frame underneath to reshape it. The carbon bumpers were very difficult to get in place, but they do fit properly at least. You may also notice the headlights, which are halogen units made by Raybrig in Japan. The blue tint to the reflectors looks pretty cool I reckon. The Bride seats went in quite easily in the end, using some generic rails which keep them nice and low in the car. I also bolted in a set of 3-inch four-point harnesses. The fiberglass dash was fairly easy to fit with some hand-made brackets and the original instruments fit too. I used a fiberglass vent panel ahead of the dash too, with the original plastic ducts riveted into place. I plan to hook these up to the side vent inlets, which are now blocked on the dash itself. At least I'll have some airflow to keep the windshield clear (the heater box and other vents are all gone). One more upgrade is the Watanabe wheels. I managed to find a set of 16x8 and 16x8.5 in a deeper offset, so I could get rid of the wheel spacers. The deeper centers look much better and they fill the fenders perfectly. A few finishing touches this week and I'll be driving DAT240 again for the first time in two years. Once the engine has been run in a bit I'll fit the new injection system. More on that later, along with a weighbridge result.assembledfront.jpgassembledrear.jpgbrides.jpgglassdash.jpgwatanabe.jpg
  14. Only a couple of pounds, I mainly did it to fill the sunroof hole. There's still six inches of the original metal skin around the edges of the roof.
  15. I just got the shell back from the paint shop. Looks pretty good so far. The rear wheel arches came up a lot better thanks to the work done by the shop (I'm not a pro). I'll be fitting the carbon fiber hood and bumpers later this week. I also have to get the new windows made (glass is much too heavy for this car). Feels like I'm on the home stretch now.
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