80LS1T
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Posts posted by 80LS1T
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The LT1 t56 is long gone. There was something wrong with it anyways. It had something rattling inside of it that I couldn't figure out.
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I know it's been a long time since I posted but I've been busy starting a new business and slowly working on the Z. However I am hoping to Z back on the road for the summer. I've got a lot done in the past couple months and basically I'm down to some wiring and a little bit more fabrication.
here's a teaser pic...
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I fab'd up my radiator and intercooler mounts today....
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I ended up just ordering some fittings that I thought would work. I ened up with...
EAR-9919DFHERL 14MM X 1.5 ADAPTER
EAR-9919DFJERL 16MM X 1.5 ADAPTER
From summitracing.com. Not 100% the flared part will be leak free just yet but they threaded in and are tight. I will find out once the motor is fired up and the p/s pump is pumping!
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Does anyone know the size of the fittings going into the rack and pinion on a 280ZX? I need to make some power steering lines for my LS1 conversion.
I think they are 14mm x 1.50 and 16mm x 1.50 bubble flared(talk about lame). If anyone knows if I am correct and where I can get fittings to convert them to AN fittings that would be great. Otherwise I will have to make my own fitting conversion hose and I really dont want to do that! LOL
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Ya I need to change my name to 80LS1T
Build is coming along. I've been super busy at work and at my shop so not a whole lot of time to work on my own stuff. I have the piping for around the engine pretty much finished up. I have to check all the pipes for leaks before I send them out for coating though. I'm still hoping to get it on the road this summer but I do have a lot of stuff to do yet like wiring in the new motor....my favorite part
Not sure if you can see it in the pick but I swapped out the stock oil pan for a GM 19212593 kit. The pan sump is only maybe 1" below the front crossmember and it clears the rack and pinion fine now.
My new radiator set up from Mishimoto. This set up was made for a 95-99 dodge Neon. Its perfect for where the outlets are and since I have to move my set up to the front of the core support this will fit perfect right there. I don't think cooling will be an issue but only time will tell. This is about .5" thinner than my last radiator but I never had any issues with that set up either. I am hoping with a cooler thermostat and the dual fans it will be ok. I know I've seen smaller ones on other high HP cars and they were ok so I'm pretty confident that it will be ok.
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rsicard, can we please keep this info on the LT1 out of my build thread? It really has nothing to do with what I'm doing. This is not a "should I stay LT1 or go LS1 + turbo" thread. Please start your own thread if you want to talk about how great the gen 1 and 2 engines are.
Thanks
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Yes I am. I'm going to run 3" pipe if I can. Looks like it will fit but its going to take some work to snake it through there.
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Crossover pipe is all tacked up!
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If your buying a 77' then its a 280Z not a 280ZX....
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I think your info is incorrect but thats just my opinion. I'm done with this conversation. I hated the LT1 and its horrible aftermarket cost per HP. Its now where near what the LS engine is per dollar
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"Could have saved you MUCH grief by modifying the LT-1 to get 500+ HP and Torque from it in Naturally Aspirated Configuration. See AFR heads SBC Dyno Tests. Their heads are FAR superior to the GM cathedral port cylinder heads. GM finally went back to rectangular intake ports on the latest Gen V SBC in the Corvette and Camaro and upped the performance over the cathedral port heads. AFR already had Gen I and Gen II (LT1) heads with the latest Corvette/Camaro intake port configuration as I witnessed at SEMA in Las Vegas."
I have no intrest in that POS LT1 engine anymore
. I couldn't stand replaceing that thing they call a distributor every summer due to the smallest amount of water getting even near it. I was bored with the power and maintance of keeping it running. I wanted more power and I wasn't about to spend another dime on that set up. Not only that I enjoy doing stuff like this. Its been way to long since I did something like this to my car and it was much needed! I did get my TC78 turbo, JGS 50mm BOV, JGS 50mm wastegate, and E-boost 2 boost controller ordered! I should be able to finish up the hotside piping in the next week or 2!
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Well I found out that the C6 manifolds will work but I need to use 2 left side ones. The passenger side is pointed to the rear and the drivers side is pointed towards the front. So far so good!
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I got some C6 manifolds on last night. The passenger side is about 1/8" from touching the strut tower. Do you guys think I should just notch the strut tower a little or massage it a little with a BFH? I don't know if beating a strut tower even a little will mess with my alignment or if notching it will ruin its strength? Either that or I need to find another manifold that works on that side.
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I paid $3900 to shipped to my door for a 2002 LS1/T56 with 48,000 miles on it. All accessories, computer, pedals, maf, harness, and ecm. I also was searching for months until the right deal came along. Most I that I have seen on Ebay for the 01+ LS motors and T56 combos go for $4000+ not including shipping....so more like $4500 shipped
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I removed the LT1/T56 last night and tonight I test fitted the engine with some 1" LS1 conversion set back plates that I got off of ebay and the MSA SBC mounts from my LT1. Fits like a glove. The only I thing I may have to do is attach the rear bolt on passenger side of the rack and pinion a different way. Thats the only thing hitting the oil pan. I might be able to just grind it down some. I'm just happy the oil pan can stay stock!
Truck manifolds do not clear frame rails on either side. I'm going to try some flipped C6 manifolds next. I really don't want headers as weird as that sounds.
Engine is sitting further back that the LT1 was! Probably 1-1.5"
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Are you running the stock accessories and brackets for an LS1 Fbody car? I found out tonight that the truck manifolds will not clear the frame rails. The C6 manifolds look promising for me though!
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Where is your radiator slammmed?
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I am actually going to ditch my initial design of the tank being mounting horizontal back by the fuel tank. I am gonig to make a new surge tank to go up in the engine bay with the high pressure pump and remount the low pressure pump in the stock location. I think my tank was too short and I was still sucking air into the high pressure pump. I wont know until after the engine swap if my new tank will work like it should though.
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Man I could have used that switch 5 years ago for my LT1 T56! My switch connector touches the tunnel but hasn't given me an issue.
Rockauto part # MOTORCRAFT Part # SW5857
Nice find!
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Well I recieved the engine and have started modding it. I decieded after much (more) reading that the bottom end will be fine stock.(knock on wood). So instead I bought some 317 heads with PRC double valve springs to lower the compression down.
Other goodies include some Yella Terra roller rockers, 60 Siemens injectors, FAST fuel rails, and ARP head studs. Still trying to find a used LS6 cam so I can put this thing back together and start the mouting process!
Feels good to be doing something like this to the car again, I think I like building stuff like this more than I like driving it!
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Thanks for the pics.
The color is House of Kolor Cobalt Blue with a silver metalic base coat. I don't have the codes for them though...
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If you can get a pic of your motor mounts and how close you are to the firewall that would be great. I'm trying to get an idea of how much room I will have for the turbo piping up in front of the engine. Oh and maybe a pic of the space in front of the engine!
Thanks!
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Yaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay..
Maybe I'll have mine done by then.. lol broken record..
You'll have to swing up to Appleton when I start on mine to check it out! What are you doing to yours?
. I couldn't stand replaceing that thing they call a distributor every summer due to the smallest amount of water getting even near it. I was bored with the power and maintance of keeping it running. I wanted more power and I wasn't about to spend another dime on that set up. Not only that I enjoy doing stuff like this. Its been way to long since I did something like this to my car and it was much needed! 
Autoloc Power Locks, anyone done this?
in Interior
Posted
I did the same thing as Coopz on my 280ZX with the power locks, DZ start kit, and alarm. This way I don't need a key for anything other than the hatch. I took the rod out that would be used for the inner door lock manual switch and hooked it up to the actuator. I had to massage the inside of my door panel to make the actuator fit but you can't tell from the outside. Mine is a 280ZX though.