peej410

Mike, whats your total so far?

They probably raise the inner pickup point and move the subframe up into the body while lowering the diff. How close is it to Z3 suspension?

Arent you worries about bottoming the splitter and taking out the oil cooler?

260. How do you mitigate the likely hood of rock damage? Slicks hurl rocks at the back of the headlights

Update. Even with a thermostat the oil barely breaks 180f. I am going to relocate the cooler behind the front valence under the rad duct. Hopefully air flowing through the radiator from the rad fan is enough to keep it cool when stopped.

Not sure about the niagra cooler... Report back. Took it to the track on a 80deg day and ran multiple 20min sessions. Peak oil temp was 190 Peak water temp was 205 (in pits after run) Oil temp is at the sump. I am debating moving it when i go dry sump. A lot of people say after the cooler. Any input?

LRP is a lot of fun. Its my home away from home. If you ever plan to head up let me know! No updates this week other than, if you need work or rust repair let me know! The winter gets quiet and I would love to give back to the hybridz community

So the search function works if someone ever questions it again

JohnC did a nice job of articulating the geometric reasons the suspension works well. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105513-e36-m3-suspension-in-a-240z/?p=987259 One thing I notice more and more is the difference in feedback front to rear. On strut cars I (feel) what the wheel is doing easier than Z link SLA or SA suspensions. (This could be setup based)

As crazy as that sounds if you put a spherical joint at the outer most pickup point (nearest rocker) and a soft bushing on the inside you could control camber gain. You could even use the inner bushing to adjust toe. (Or ditch it all together)

I wanted to update this thread since quite a bit has happened. I decided to try to keep this thread suspension based since i trend towards rambling on about everything I am doing. As promised, First thing in the morning I spaced on the fact that I hadnt set the brake bias yet. Following a fellow instructor a handful of laps in I braked deep into big bend (like i do with my M3) locked the rears briefly then went into a long tank slapper followed by four clockwise 360s. The right front tire hopped up over the inner curbing in front of the T1 work station. Before I even came to a stop I had it in 2nd gear and was back on the throttle. Close call about 8 feet off the wall! I brought it in after that to take a breath and collect myself. I took it easy the rest of day. I did get to floor it a few times (this video) which was fun! These are my impressions. Shorter front struts so I can get to the ride height I designed the suspension for. Only has about 1.5" of bump travel now. This way it can properly load the front tires under braking without lifting the rear to the point that its near full droop. Its only an inch but if you ask the ladies every inch counts. It needs more roll stiffness in the rear, it feels like the outside tire is folding in underneath you not like its supporting the car. It needs spherical bearings in the rear. On corner entry and corner exit the rear wheels toe in and toe out however they want to. The powerflex bushings deflect by hand. I bet with an 11inch wide slick and 2700lb of car at 1g is greatly changing the rear toe making it very difficult to exit corners under power. It needs to be properly tuned. I will get to this over the next few weeks. It bogs at heavy load and 2500rpm. It needs a steeper ratio diff. Coming into the left hander I am in the bottom of third. Entering big bend im barely at 4500 in 4th. 3rd gear lasts till after Pit in on the main straight (in my M3 i nearly redline in 4th on the front straight) It needs a larger steering wheel. No power steering and a lot of hot rubber makes it a bear to turn hard below 60. The left hander is exceptionally challenging. The fuel cell needs to be lowered. Exiting the essess onto no name, you can see the car kick left. Thats the fuel sloshing. (My M3 doesnt do this and I drive it way harder) I may just build a new cell from scratch with baffles and better pickup. It is definitely still down on power because the AF ratio is still in the 11s down on power from poor combustion means lots of crankcase pressure from unspent mixture passing by the rings. I have always built cars by a certain philosophy. If the driver is not confident he cannot go fast. When I am done with it, it will be very fast.

Came up with a solution. Thanks for the emails guys!

Hey guys, im coming down to the wire and havent been able to find a steering shaft with good coupler for my 240z track car. I could have sworn i had one. Im in CT and can drive upto an hour to get it. Pete@autosportfab.com

I swapped e36M3 suspension front and rear into my 240z. M3 rear suspension hub to hub no diff $600 M3 front suspension hub to hub $250 M3 used bilstein sport front struts $100 Penske rear dampers with springs $800 M3 differential $400 Driveshaft $300 Adapter flange $100 Probably $400 in monoballs and hardware Its doable and I could walk you through the fab work. It is not for the faint of heart but it works.

Picked up a Derale thermostat and some more brass fittings. Ill install it tomorrow and report back.