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Hello, while in the midst of some electrical repairs I figured while I'm at it why not redo my interior. I'm almost done cleaning/grinding all of the tar and now its time for rust repair. I've been have been debating whether to weld in patches or put in new floors all together. However, given that I want to finish this relatively quickly and that this is my first welding project,patching with 18 gauge sheet metal seems like an acceptable approach. The smaller patches are straightforward, where I need advice is with the floor pan seams and seat brackets (pictures below): 1. Both the front and rear seams are rusted out. What is the best approach to repair these areas? Can I just cut 2 or 3 inches on either side of the seam and lap weld in a single patch panel? Or do I need to do two separate repairs e.g. cut and butt weld in upper patch onto the firewall, and then cut and weld an overlapping patch that is attached to the old floor pan? 2. The seat bracket seams are rusting out, should I completely remove (or cut) the brackets out and clean up the areas underneath or can I get away with spot blasting the seams and treating with phosphoric acid?
I've been contemplating using a pre-smog body mated entirely to the suspension and running gear of a very modern car. I've drawn out plans, taken photos of my own Supras and 240Z while on stands, measured, compared, etc. This is still on the drawing board. The goal, of course, is to find the easiest/cheapest connection point between old and new, with a limited budget - maybe $8K. This budget is only for a drivable car that is complete using substantially used equipment. Blueprinting an engine, updating turbo system and control, dyno tuning, suspension upgrades, and all such expenses would wait until the proof-of-concept is reliably on the road for a while. Here's the plan, in general: Shell of one body, subframes of another, maybe floor & firewall of the subframe donor, steering & dash may be from subframe donor, front and rear fascia & body electrical of either a good cosmetic choice, or the same as the subframe donor, engine may match subframe donor (meaning only two designs are involved) or could be entirely unrelated. Exact combination depends on many factors. To all NaySayers: Here's someone who did it. He chose a Volvo P1800 body, a Lexus SC400 as complete donor, and required some tube framing. He took two years in his garage to get it road-worthy, starting without blueprints but just cutting the cars up and doing it. Kudos for pulling it off: http://www.pro-touring.com/general/member-pro-touring-projects/got-volvo-73794.html http://www.clublexus.com/forums/build-threads/548803-volvo-body-swap-build.html Datsun examples worth considering: S30 shell, subframes and additional equipment (maybe entire floor like the Volvo) come from a 350Z/G35/370Z; engine coudl be a VQ35DE, VH45DE, or SR20-DET as best examples. To maintain 350Z geometry (which wins autocross) one must either extend the nose (tube frame) giving even more room for the engine without crossmember conflict and better weight distribution, or move the rear wheel wells back relative to the body, placed much as they are on a 350Z (low overhang). 260Z/280Z 2/2 (2+2) - unpopular body, but the wheelbase happens to approximate several modern options. The 350Z theme could be used, but here's another good combination: due to Japanese tax incentives, the Lexus IS300 is narrowed, and therefore a very close match to use as subframe and floor donor (and additional equipment, depending on fitment), with either the stock 2JZ-GE VVTi from the IS300 (reuse all the wiring, gauges, and everything stock), 1UZ-FE V8 (perhaps using SC400 as donor instead for simplicity, though wider body), GR series V6, 2UR-GSE (IS-F engine, not in my price range but certainly worth a mention), and other engine options. Datsun 1200 (B110) shell, Mazda Miata subframes (supposedly easy to work with, made for more weight than this finished project, good match of geometry, dead engine Miatas with suspension upgrades can be bought cheap), SR20DET, CA18DET, VQ35DE, or even the Frontier RWD QR25DE since stock power would be more than ample for a 2000lb car. For that matter, an "old school" engine might be used. Engine/transmission could be from any other donor; any small high-tech 4-banger that has a modern intercooled turbo kit available. Obviously any of these could also take the GM LS1/T56 or newer with suspension mods, but I've focused entirely on Japanese (though still mix brands). So the topic is... Could I do similar to the Volvo/Lexus project using a pre-smog Datsun and whatever donor seems the best match? I concurrently am asking a question about fabrication cost on another thread, asking if outsourcing the fabrication to Mexico or further south could get the metal-work done cheaply but well.
So on my 260Z the floor pans are shot. No nice way to put it. And the Dingus that Owned it prior to me I guess was just trying to make it driveable and he just riveted in a little piece of sheet metal in the drivers floor board. Well anyway it has led to a huGe mess in the floor pans and the bottom of the sEat rails look like they have a little structural rust on them. My plan is to get a recaro or some kind of after market seat with the avaliability of a harness to be installed. So my question is would it be worth trying to salvage the front seat rail or just cut the thing out with no discretion? Not to mention does anyone have a few pictures of where they installed the new floor pans and support rails from http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/30-7317. I really want to know how far back im gonna have to cut and also how far up the trans tunnel I need to tear the fabric. Thanks guys!