05plsrt-4

The one that I am using is part number 12401123 I think

After searching I came up with 34-43.5ftlbs for the mains and 10.3 to 11.8ftlbs for the rods (plus 60 degrees) The mains seem like they have a very wide range.

Thanks for the fast reply I have all those manuals. And I think I must be stupid because I cannot find the specs for the RB25DET. The only ones I can find are for the RB20 and RB26 (which are different)

Does anyone know the correct torque specs for the rods and mains of a RB25DET engine? I've found both the RB20DET and the RB26DETT but not the RB25. Are they the same as the RB26?

15213-21001 solved my problem

Oil filter spins onto the greddy part I showed in the pic. The greddy part bolts to the block with the adapter I was looking for. Then the oil cooler runs off the an fittings. It completely eliminates the water/oil cooler. Which is what I wanted.

For high 600's you may want to go with something larger than a 35R I decided on a T04R for my RB25 which is supposed to support up to 750hp.

J. Soileau - ordered that part you told me to and its the one I need. It was a different number than all the other ones I ordered. Thanks!!

The whole point was I wanted to do it cheaper than the $500. And it would probablly cost $500 to have a crank shipped to me from australia. I guess one of the reasons they dont want to do it is because the crank has 2 flat spots that need to be ground off. Its really hard on the crankshaft grinder. I havnt made my decision yet, still need to call a few other places. Does anyone know where to get a cheaper crank collar? Cheaper than the JUN?

I didnt take it personal what so ever. Only on here to gather information. But like I said, I havnt decided on what to do yet. You do searches on various forums on the net and find people who swear by it, but also people who are just running the engine the way it is and not having a problem. Sure, if I dont do it, its possible that I will destroy the oil pump, but on the other had, if I do do it, theres always a possiblity that something else will happen to the motor. The only reason I disassembled the engine in the first place was to replace the head gasket. Now I'm thinking about building the block once and for all.

Teamnissan - I think that because they're friends they just dont want to screw it up. Theres one other machine shop in town, the very best around, but they run 2 racecars (which customers who get machine work done seem to pay for all the parts). The price of their work is usually double to tripple what the other places are. I dont dare even call them. I'm going to call a few non-automotive machine shops and see if I can get a better price. I havnt decided what to do yet. I dont know if i'm just going to run it the way it is until I blow it up, or if I should just build it once and be done with it.

Sure theres lots of machine shops, but none that will do this. I have a few good friends who work at some very good machine shops, but they dont want to touch it. I was told they had to ship the crank to Toronto or Montreal which would come out of my pocket.

I'm located in Canada. Theres no place that can do that in my area. I'd have to ship the crank away to have it done. Total cost of shipping, machining, installation and balancing is around $500 plus the cost of the collar. Thats why I wanted to know if anyone has welded one with good results.

Of course I have a crank with the very narrow oil pump drive. I've done quite a bit of research on it and hear of people both installing a JUN or australian crank collar, or welding it. I dont understand why you just couldnt weld it a little longer?? I got a quote the other day of approx $500 to machine the crank and install the collar. Little more pricy than I wanted. Anyone weld it with good results? Or bad results?

The part in the second pic is the one I keep getting. I've given them a few different part numbers and they seem to all get superceded to the same part. I'll try ordering the other one and we'll see what happens.