05plsrt-4

The one that I am using is part number 12401123 I think

After searching I came up with 34-43.5ftlbs for the mains and 10.3 to 11.8ftlbs for the rods (plus 60 degrees) The mains seem like they have a very wide range.

Thanks for the fast reply I have all those manuals. And I think I must be stupid because I cannot find the specs for the RB25DET. The only ones I can find are for the RB20 and RB26 (which are different)

Does anyone know the correct torque specs for the rods and mains of a RB25DET engine? I've found both the RB20DET and the RB26DETT but not the RB25. Are they the same as the RB26?

15213-21001 solved my problem

Oil filter spins onto the greddy part I showed in the pic. The greddy part bolts to the block with the adapter I was looking for. Then the oil cooler runs off the an fittings. It completely eliminates the water/oil cooler. Which is what I wanted.

For high 600's you may want to go with something larger than a 35R I decided on a T04R for my RB25 which is supposed to support up to 750hp.

J. Soileau - ordered that part you told me to and its the one I need. It was a different number than all the other ones I ordered. Thanks!!

The whole point was I wanted to do it cheaper than the $500. And it would probablly cost $500 to have a crank shipped to me from australia. I guess one of the reasons they dont want to do it is because the crank has 2 flat spots that need to be ground off. Its really hard on the crankshaft grinder. I havnt made my decision yet, still need to call a few other places. Does anyone know where to get a cheaper crank collar? Cheaper than the JUN?

I didnt take it personal what so ever. Only on here to gather information. But like I said, I havnt decided on what to do yet. You do searches on various forums on the net and find people who swear by it, but also people who are just running the engine the way it is and not having a problem. Sure, if I dont do it, its possible that I will destroy the oil pump, but on the other had, if I do do it, theres always a possiblity that something else will happen to the motor. The only reason I disassembled the engine in the first place was to replace the head gasket. Now I'm thinking about building the block once and for all.

Teamnissan - I think that because they're friends they just dont want to screw it up. Theres one other machine shop in town, the very best around, but they run 2 racecars (which customers who get machine work done seem to pay for all the parts). The price of their work is usually double to tripple what the other places are. I dont dare even call them. I'm going to call a few non-automotive machine shops and see if I can get a better price. I havnt decided what to do yet. I dont know if i'm just going to run it the way it is until I blow it up, or if I should just build it once and be done with it.

Sure theres lots of machine shops, but none that will do this. I have a few good friends who work at some very good machine shops, but they dont want to touch it. I was told they had to ship the crank to Toronto or Montreal which would come out of my pocket.

I'm located in Canada. Theres no place that can do that in my area. I'd have to ship the crank away to have it done. Total cost of shipping, machining, installation and balancing is around $500 plus the cost of the collar. Thats why I wanted to know if anyone has welded one with good results.

Of course I have a crank with the very narrow oil pump drive. I've done quite a bit of research on it and hear of people both installing a JUN or australian crank collar, or welding it. I dont understand why you just couldnt weld it a little longer?? I got a quote the other day of approx $500 to machine the crank and install the collar. Little more pricy than I wanted. Anyone weld it with good results? Or bad results?

The part in the second pic is the one I keep getting. I've given them a few different part numbers and they seem to all get superceded to the same part. I'll try ordering the other one and we'll see what happens.

I'm trying to completly remove the water to oil oil cooler and install a air one up front. The first pic is of the oil cooler adapter I'm planning on using. The second is of the adapter peice that I need. I've talked to a few Nissan dealers now and I've ordered a few different numbers and keep ending up with the same peice (as shown in the pic) So I'm just going to have a machine shop put threads on the unthreaded part of the adapter (second pic)

After talkin to a few machine shops, they're going to take the old one, and just cut the correct threads to it. It's only going to be around $20.

I recently purchased a brand new exotic speed manifold for my RB25. I'm very inpressed with the quality of it. I think this is the correct link http://www.exoticspeed.ca/product_info.php?products_id=559 It is very well built. It uses CNC flanges, not cast like the ssautocrap. It uses a twin scroll T4 flange.The bolt holes lined up perfectly. It fits my T04R without any issues.

Thanks. No one seems to know what it is, or what the part number is. So I'm going to have it custom made.

I have an RB25DET that I'm trying to install an external oil cooler on. For anyone who has removed the oil cooler on these engines know that where the adapter in the block is, its not threaded. I need it threaded. I removed it from the engine and it has threads on one side (metric something or other) and nothing on the other. I need one that has the metric thread on one side, and 3/4 16unf on the other side I ordered a oil filter adapter from a RB20DET without an oil cooler and it came in the same part as I origionally had. Can anyone help?

I bought the knock off. The intake ports are terrible. They dont line up with the gasket, the casting is bad too. They painted it silver. Which I thought was a little fishy. So I stripped all the paint off. Found the casting was REALLY bad. There was bondo filling alot of dips and flaws in the casting. After seeing that I was unsure if it would handle anything. So I went and bought a real one. Should've done it from day one. Anyone wanna buy the fake one? Hehehe

Installing the intake is a peice of cake, what I'm looking for is info on what people have done with the throttle body. I'm trying to decide if I should keep this one or just buy a billet/custom one that only has a place for the TPS and throttle cable and has none of the other junk on the throttle body. I've read pretty much every single post that has anything dealing with this throttle body but I havnt been able to find info on: 1) is the thermostat thing (What J.Soileau is talking about) is required, if it can be removedand still have the car operate correctly. 2) are all 13 or so springs and levers actually required.

Thats exactly what I was wonder also, but I'm no where near actually starting my car. I just wanted to get all that stuff taken care before I get to that point. I personally think that it could be removed all together, but I just wanted to know if anyone else has done it before I start hacking up this throttle body.

Thanks for all the input Are you using the throttle body the way it is? or are you removing the thermostat thing that ups the idle when cold?

I purchased mine from ATPturbo.com