usafdarkhorse
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Posts posted by usafdarkhorse
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Do you have any current pictures?
I could buy new from the Z store, but I would ideally not want to do that. How much do you think she's worth?
This rearend needs a BRE lip!
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Just curious to see if anyone has one of these for sale. Maybe someone bought one and decided to go a different route with their exterior look?
Looks like this:
Let me know!
Thanks!
Jared -
Called the local transmission shop today and had them look up the differential seal for a 280Z R200. I then asked them for the specifications and was told the bore was 55 mm and shaft was 35 mm. This matches my differential, good news. The seal was a National 223542. I could not find a National seal, but I was able to cross reference it to a Timken, same part number. Ordered two from RockAuto at $3.67 each. Happy Day
Ordered two of the Timken 223542 seals the other day from RockAuto and they just arrived. Yup, they're the correct seals.
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UPDATE:
BOTH U joints in the driveshaft were dead. Had about 140,000 miles on that part of the drivetrain with about 20,000 miles of boost, so I'm not surprised.
A shop here in TN is building me a new shaft with Spicer joints. Hopefully everything will be good when I throw it back in.
Wish me luck!
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UPDATE:
I've pulled the driveshaft since the noise presents itself in any gear at a higher speed, and from the car the sound was coming from right under me.
There was a little play in the U joint, but once I pulled it out I noticed that the U joint moved fine in one axis, and little to none in another axis ( IE will move up and down, but not side to side ).
The yoke has a few slight wear marks on it as well, so I'm having the U joints in the driveshaft replaced and I may go with Spicer joints with the grease fittings.
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Parking brake lever / linkage / cables hitting the driveshaft yoke?
Don't have one as of yet, so that fixes that problem haha!
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Jacked the car up and got a good look under the rear end.
Nothing looked out of whack and everything felt pretty tight and normal.
I think my left rear brake calipre was sticking so I shimmed it from the bracket and fixed it mostly. It's not the lugs since I retorqued them and the U joints felt pretty tight like mentioned before. Dropped the car and went for a drive.
Clanking is still there, although it appears to show more in the higher speeds ( over 20mph or so ) and it sounds like it's coming from directly beneath me ( like as in driveshaft or front diff mount area ).
Sounds the same way. Like a card in bicycle spokes or like a helicopter if that helps. I'm going to raise the car again and get a good look at the driveshaft where it meets the diff.
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Hi,
I've just now got the Z back on the road for about a month after some issues with my charging circuit and Megasquirt, and I was on my way back from a drive to Nashville over the weekend when I got about a mile from my house ( thankfully! ) and something in the rear of the car goes "POP!" Then it made a "clankclankclankclank" sound all the way to a stop, decreasing in frequency with the speed.
Checked under the car. No fluid. No random hanging pieces. Rolls forward and backward just fine. So I babied it the 1 mile home ( about 10mph ) with it going "clank clank clank clank" the whole way.
At first I thought either the rearend or a U joint, but now I'm thinking something in the differential is probably not the culprit.
Ideas? I'm going to pull the rear wheels and get a good look at the stub axles and joints tonight and make sure everything in the rear is up to torque spec.
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I actually resolved this on Saturday.
I ended up taking apart the hazard switch and the turn signal switch as well as buying a newer generic flasher unit. I got all signals but the front right and I found out the flasher circuit had sunk into the connector ( should be 3 prongs, I had only 2! ).
Pulled out the wire, reconnected, good as new.
Thanks all!
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I've had my 75 Z for 6 months now and the entire time I've not had turn signals ( like my 76 Z before ) and it KILLED ME. So this weekend I decided to tackle the issue.
Here were my symptoms before:
All hazards except front right blink, no turn signals at all. Every parking light is lit.
I ended up taking apart the hazard switch and cleaning it, purchasing a newer generic flasher relay, and taking apart the turn signal switch and cleaning it. I followed a few helpful threads here and got some good advice toward the likely candidates that might be causing my problems.
Afterward, my symptoms were these:
All hazards except front right blink, all turn signals except front right blink. Every parking light is lit. Seeing a connection here?
Anyway, everything is MUCH better now, but I still cannot manage to get my right blinker to flash. I didn't think the bulb was bad, but I changed it out anyway ( no telling how old it was ) and it was still a no-go. Keep in mind that my front right PARKING light is fine, but the actual FLASHING is not. It will go out when I turn on the hazard switch.
Anyone have any idea about how I can negotiate a legal right hand turn?
Locations of grounds and important items through the circuit would be immensely helpful.
Thanks in advance!
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I've got a 76 280Z with an 83 motor and tranny swap in Knoxville.
Let me know if this is something you'd be interested in.
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Like others are saying, if you can figure out the tranny issues then go for it!
If you the OEM trannies won't work out, and you can't make a custom tranny adapter/bellhousing then there are MANY motors that we've talked about on this board, but know of no one who's done it.
Ford Supercoupe V6
Mercedes V8
BMW Inline 6
Any toyota 4 banger (they have some good truck motors)
Again, toyota truck motor, V6
Ford 460 ( i don't THINK it has beed done, but I'm probably wrong, I don't frequent the ford section here enough. but it'd be a wicked swap)
There are MANY swaps out there that havn't been done, but are perfectly viable swaps. If you're gonna be fabricating stuff for a custom swap that's never been done, the options seem endless imo.
Good luck with the project!
The BMW has been done, but it's still cool! I think a BMW V12 has been done as well actually. I know a Jag has.
I'd like to see more VH45 swaps. Those are BAD.
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Regardless, if anyone wants it, I'll go and get it.
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haha. Well, does anyone want to have a go at it again? It looks great, but Id be in way over my head trying to do something like this. I think I'm going to pull it anyway and save it whether or not I or someone else could use it right away.
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I've posted an ad in the classifieds about a V12 engine from an XJ12 that I intend to pull if someone wants it. Check it out.
Is this even possible as a HybridZ? It looks like it would fit.
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3/76 305 blue 280Z. '83 F54/P79 motor and 5spd. transmission swap. ~60k miles on combo. ~200k on car. Shelby Libre knockoffs.
Turbo conversion and repaint in the works.
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If you are keeping the 76' ecu, you'll need to do something about timing and fuel. You can use an n/a oil pump. The oil fitting in the block is bsp. You'll need a bsp adapter or tap it to npt. You stock sender will screw into npt. I find it easier to use the stock stock and hard line but you can get metal brake line and fitting cheap too.
Can you specify bsp and npt for us non-savvy people?
Would you advocate transplanting the S130 turbo ECU? I'm acquiring the distributor.
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OK I've started my search for turbo parts and I've found a good 280ZX turbo fuel rail w/ injectors and the oil filter relocater.
Now, I've got a buddy who has a Z31 turbo oil pump. Will this work for my car?
If so, excellent. He's also got a T3, but first things first
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Hey that sounds fantastic. I think 9psi on my N/A to turbo motor would be enough for me.
Hi Mike,I built mine as a higher compression (8.5-1) flat top turbo motor and I'm very pleased with the results. Since the car is mostly a street car, I wanted to have as much torque as I could get off boost. I think I accomplished this with the higher compression ratio. It did take me a while to tune the car but I'm now able to run 16lbs pounds of boost with no detonation. Oh and I have most of the turbo pieces if you'd like to mock up a build.
Joe
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PM sent.
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Wow...after doing a search, this thread became very helpful in determining which way I should go in my quest for N/A to turbo.
I have a '76 Z with an '83 F54/P79 swap and I was concerned about detonation with the flattop pistons and the load on the ECU.
Now, having read all of this, I'm really wanting to get this rolling.
However, I'm at a loss to know what I need or what I should be on the lookout for. Manifolds? Oil pumps?
What sort of things would be REQUIRED for those of you who have made the jump from N/A F54/P79 to turbo? I have the FSM for the '82 280ZXT but I'm a little confused on which parts I need to complete it.
Thanks,
Jared
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Finally Got It Figured Out - Borg Warner T5 Rear Output Shaft Seal...Pics!
in Drivetrain
Posted
I'm curious about this too. I had a driveline shop make me a driveshaft, but it ended up being too long and blew the output shaft seal.
I ordered the NAPA seal from SKF seen above, but I can't really figure out which way it's supposed to point haha.
If the collar points to the rear of the car, would the ID seal fit in the housing but the OD rubber keep it from going in? (there's about a half centimeter of metal surrounding the opening to the tailshaft ) The seal that was in the car was just a simple piece without the collar, so I'm confused haha.