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jasper

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Posts posted by jasper

    What type of Engine oil to use?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Thanks for the input guys....

    This is not my first Rodeo. I'm 57 years old, and have been ASE certified since the early 80's.

    45+ years experience, and counting. Of course I will prime the system, and confirm oil flow.

     

    I know that engine oils have have changed DRASTICALLY in the last 35 years. 5, 10, and 15k oil change 

    intervals are common.  300k on today's engines are common. I know it's all about the oil. :wink:

    I believe there is probably a better choice of oil to use, than what is currently sitting in the 35 year old oil pan.

     

    The experience I do lack, is in oil choices for an unusual situation, such as this. 

    I'm hoping some of you guys know more than I do, and have practical experience. 

    I'm leaning towards the Brad Penn.

    Is a straight 30 weight suggested?

    I've started to research your recommendations. I'm not done.

    Again, thanks for all your help.

    What type of Engine oil to use?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

     The story:

    At least 5 years ago, I bought a 1981 280zx engine and 5spd transmission. 

    Complete with all accessories , harness, computer etc. 

     

     I was told the car was driven off the dealer's lot, and rear ended. He somehow bought the drivetrain.

    It was sitting under his work bench in Long Island, N.Y., till I bought it, for $475.00

    When I saw the factory blue paint on the oil filter, I was starting to believe. When I found

    the egr tube still shiny, with the blue over spray, I was convinced.

     

    If you look at the pics, you can see he was telling the truth. Looks like the day it was born.

     

    Since the oil is 35 years old, as is the filter, I would think there would be a better oil choice today.

     

    The question??

    What oil type/viscosity/etc. would be a good choice for start up, and break in of a "NEW" 35 year old engine?

     

    PS.  The EFI was removed, and carb'd, for ease of getting this new build on the road. 

            Will probably get it's EFI back, sometime down the road.

     

    Thanks for your input.post-3495-0-08511400-1468799401_thumb.jpgpost-3495-0-14393500-1468799413_thumb.jpgpost-3495-0-95954900-1468799420_thumb.jpgpost-3495-0-46079900-1468799449_thumb.jpg

    Question about modern obd2 systems

    in Trouble Shooting / General Engine

    Posted

    Essentially all new cars, are a rolling network  of computers.

    With MATCHING (engine, trans, sensors,etc)  hardware.

    Software updates are common, and Vin specific.

     

    Swapping components/modifications is now a difficult, if not impossible task for the DIY crowd.

    It is an uphill battle you are unlikely to win. 

     

    Play with the old stuff, leave the new stuff alone, unless you buy engineered for the application items,

    have deep pockets, lots of time, etc,etc,etc........

    Good Luck.

    1978 280z Total Loss

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted · Edited by jasper

    My 260Z has an agreed of roughly 20k+.

     Agreed is the only way to go, for future reference.

    If you don't get a fair offer, lawyer up.

    But it will cost you roughly  1/3 of settlement.

    Plenty of high comps out there.

    Toyota 4x4 Calipers sticking?

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted · Edited by jasper

    The brown coloration on one set of pads is characteristic of OVERHEATING. 

    As a Toyota tech, I replace A LOT of 4 Runner front calipers for stuck/sticking inboard pistons. 

    Always inboard pistons.........don't know why.

    Roughly 2000 and up vintage.

    If the pistons go back in easily, I would look for the L/R bias problem.

     

    Also check for problems in the Rear, leading to over loading the front brakes.

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