Jason280zx

Hey guys! So I need some help figuring out how to make my sunpro fuel level gauge to work properly on my 1983 280zx, now I do know they work by resistances to get accurate results, but im not familiar what exactly is the resistances are, and I want the gauge to read close enough to feel comfortable driving around knowing how much fuel I have left. I do understand that its a universal unit and not all gas tanks are the same size so work with me here. So I got the basic wiring down, and for ya'll who are familiar with the sunpro gauge, it has 3 points of connections, 1st is for the 12V source, 2nd is the ground, and 3rd is the sender. Now ive got the first 2, but which wire exactly do I connect the sender to the gas tank. The gas tank cover has a connection, and on that connection are 4 wires coming out from the gas tank. 1 is black (im assuming that's ground), another is red (im assuming that's the 12V source), Now the other two, identified in the wiring diagrams, one is a yellow wire, and the other is Yellow with black tread. Now Im not sure which wire of the two is for the "Sub gauge float" and "Main gauge float", but at the moment I have the gauge connected to the yellow wire and my fuel level reads around 1/2 or 3/4 of tank, but really I have about 1/4 of a tank from estimating putting in about 5 Gallons. When I connect the yellow with black tread, it reads very close to full. So my questions are "What wire do I link the gauge unit to? Or do I put both wires together then do the resistances?" Let me know if im missing any information that I you think I should know. I have looked around and search but im not getting what im looking for, I seen other post about other gauge units beside mine also recalling about resistances and stuff, Im hoping if anyone here uses and is familiar with the sunpro fuel level gauge in the same car and can really help me.

Normally from what I know, you can use Honda CRXs, S2000, and (Z31) 300zx model seats. Corbeaus is the more for sure route to take, I know they make brackets for the 280zx also, they're on the expensive side, but they look killer in the Z. I have Subaru WRX impreza seats in my 280zx from an 2003 model. With custom drilled holes to fit the bolt pattern of the rails.

Hey guys, sorry to say, but i couldnt find anything about the S130 stud removal , i did find people doing 5 lug swaps, but rotor changes, but no specific way to remove the studs, ill keep searching , but if you guys can help, it'll be really great. Thanks guys .

Thanks guys! really appreciate it! and yeah i ment to put stud, but bolt was the top of my head at the time. Again, thanks guys!

Hey guys! need a little help on how to remove the wheel bolts on the rear wheels on my 280zx, now, I only need to remove and change out 2 on the rear driver side thankfully. I've already taken off the brake calipers, rotor and the dust cover for the rotor to clear up some space. Now im pretty sure, life would be easy if i could just hammer out the bolts with a mallet, BUT there isnt a efficient space to pull out the bolts and slide in the new ones believe by looking at it, at the same time i dont want to jump to the final conclusion of taking off most of the wishbone assembly and see what i can do from there. Is there a specific way to remove them? And once i do remove them, is there a tool i should use to press in the new bolts? I could really use the help guys! ive look through the technical threads and search bar and nothing popped up for what im looking for. Thanks guys!

i took a quick look back at the rails and checking for any mistakes i made, i was pretty sure i didnt but thanks to my OCD i had to check haha but i just removed my fuel rail and MAN it was a hassle! thanks for y'alls thoughts, really helped!

And thanks for the advise, that was my initial plan to do first before buying a new FPR.

Well i know exaclty where it is, i just didnt want to go too much into detail, it spits out from where the fuel damper is.

Hey guys, so my 83 280zx non turbo is having a bit of of an issue of high fuel pressure levels. Heres a quick summary about the car. I gave it a full tune of replacements such as fuel hoses and vacuum hoses. New filters (Oil, fuel, air) spark plugs, and wires. Dizzy cap and rotor inside, belts, oil change, and last new Fuel pump. Side note about the fuel pump, theres a wire issue with the ignition switch so the fuel pump doesnt activate, so i made a switch from the pump directly to the battery to turn it on and works fine. Now heres the problem, when i activate the switch for the pump to turn on, gas starts spewing out a hose beneath the car due to high pressure, so my question is, why isnt the fuel running through the rails and going back to the tank properly? And i believe it might be the FPR BUT my situation is different, im trying to get my car running again after i bought it from a guy who had it sitting for 5 years, and i know my car can turn on because after a try of spraying starter fluid into the intake, the motor turns over by it self. And my other question is, does the FPR only works when the car is on to allow fuel flow? Please message me y'alls thoughts and explainations of what it could be. I have done some research through the forum, but if theres a place to look deeper into, please send me the link! it'll be very helpful. Thanks guyz!