Six_Shooter
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Posts posted by Six_Shooter
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not mine but here is a couple i like
The second one i really like, would like to do to my Z.
WOW, they both look good.
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The S30 has very similar body lines to the Ferrari 250GT. You probably already know, but there are body kits for the S30 to make it look like a Ferrari 250.
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If you don't want to buy that car, I might be interested, but would liek more details on the car. PM me.
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With any car that has been sitting you first have to evaluate what is NEEDED to be replaced or repaired and what can wait.
Firt you need to find everthing wrong with the car, and it sounds like you are off to a good start with that. This is where you really need to be thorugh, to find everything. This includes the body as well as all systems in the car.
Go over the body looking for rotten areas that need to be replaced, this is especially important on a unibody car, such as the S30, this is what holds the car together.
You have to find all systems that are not working, fuel, brakes, driveline, suspension, etc.
Once you've found everything that's not working or needs repair/replacement, you can start with the repairs. You'll probably also find a few more areas or parts that need replacing along the way that initially looked good, or because of the rusty bolts that break require replacment/drilling and tapping the bolt holes.
Things that I would just automatically do, especially since the car has been sitting so long are the following:
-Replace brake fluid with new. DOT 3 brake fluid (which it most likely has) absorbs water, this can get into the syetem through the reseviour (breather hole in cap), less than perfect seals, or simple condensation. It sounds like you have a brake problem anyway, possible rotted lines, or broken flex hoses, and if it's not so obvious pouring some brake fluid in will help find that possible leak. You should also replace the flex hoses, as dry rot will probably be an issue. You may actually have to attempt to bleed the brakes to get the fluid through to find any and all leaks.
Inspect all brake components, you will most likely need to replace the brake pads and shooes, due to sitting for so long and dry rot getting to them. Also cheap insurance. Check over the seals and function of the calipers and wheel cylinders, you will likely find that these parts need to be replaced or rebuilt with new seals.
-Fuel system. The carbs will most liekly need to be rebuilt. The old fuel becomes like varsol and usually eats the seals and gaskets, it can also become gummy and block some of the very small passages in the carbs.
Probably best to find a new tank or a better donor tank, than to try and get rid of the rust inside the original tank. Little pieces of rust can play havok with the fuel system pumps, and other parts, that could also block the fuel system rather easily and then it becomes a larger problem.
Drive train:
Engine: Drain oil and inspect. If the engine itself looks lok, fill with new and a new filter, even if after the next steps you find the engine to be in poor condition, this is an inexpensive step to ensure you don't damage it from using a broken down lubricant. Once you get it to turn over, make sure oil pressure is built before you go any farther. I'm not familar with the 240 engines, if they can be primed before turning over or not, by use of a drill and adaptor. If it is possible then I would recommend priming the engine this way to get the oil to everywhere it needs to be, bearings, lifters, etc. You should while priming turn the engine over by hand to make sure that all lifters get lubricated before you attempt to start.
You can also remove the valve cover and make sure that oil is getting to the top end, and that everything moves freely, when you turn it over. I'm pretty sure these cars (carbed at least) use a mechanical pump and you may need to replace this to get the car running. The diaphrams tend to dry out and split very easily after sitting for long periods of time.
clutch and tranny: You will have to determine why the clutch pedal wo't move, stuck pedal, rusty clutch cable/bad hydraulics (again I'm not entirely sure what these cars use in that department), or a frozen clutch fork, maybe even a bad pressure plate. Easiest way to determine this is to start lubricating everything and possible disassemble the clutch system to inspect each component for wear and/or breakage. Drain tranny fluid/oil and fill with new.
Diff, drain oil and fill with new. If you are really ambitious, you could pull the diff apart and inspect the gears, but I probaby wouldn't worry about that for now, they are usually not that bad of condition.
While you're change the diff oil, check over the CV axles, and joints.
You will likely find that all belts and hoses need to be replaced as well, these tend to break down over time and split/break at the most in opprotune times if they are not replaced from the get-go.
You will also want to inspect the cooling system and maybe even have the rad and heater core flushed to ensure they are clean and free from debris and leaks. Fill with new glycol/water mix.
Make sure all lights work, this seems to obvious but it's often over looked. Make sure the wipers work and replace the blades, this is another item I would just go ahaed and replace, without question.
That should get you started anyway. good luck with the build/rebuild.
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Thanks for your pics, gives me specific areas of the shell to look at when I actually get around to looking at an S30, for my project.
BTW, does anyone have one for sale? Mostly just need to end up with a good shell, don't care about engine, tranny, or suspension.
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I did this swap on my 240. Here is a good shot of the rear from the Kit Car Builder artical (warning 56k, big file) http://www.reactionresearch.com/280yz/danjuday/KCB13P29.pdf
This is not a swap for the faint of heart. The rear of a Z32 is deceptively curvy. While (I believe, but have not confirmed) the rear of an S130 is more square than even an S30. Everything below the rear edge of the hatch had to be custom formed to fit the Z32 taillights.
I'd love to see them on an S130. Just bring lots of talent and plan for a bunch of work.
I know this thread is a couple weeks old, but I just joined as I'm looking for a 240/60/80Z to build a project out of.
Anyway, I'm wondering you have a link to the rest of this article I'd like to read up on the rest of that.
Welding Class - Final Project - L Intake Manifold
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
Looks good so far, and 'grats on the A.
Just wanted to point out that your resonace and also effective peak pwer RPM has changed with the addition of the 180* bends. The calculation is from intake valve to plenum, more specifically half way through the radius on the bell mouths (for some reason the proper name eludes me right now, probably due to this head cold I have.), for a constant radius mouth. With that radius being what looks to be less than 1/2" probably around 3/8", the effective port length ends 1/4" to 3/16" down from the end of the mouths, if you were to place a ruler accross them.
I'm sure you've realized this, you just haven't posted about the effective changes that I had seen and you seemed to post abot any small change, and it's effects.